Water Heater Bypass Valve

[J42]

Hello all. We bought our first RV (2015, Forester 3051S) in December of last year, and just finished dewinterizing it today. We got good, seemingly, detailed instructions from our dealer, and things went quite well.

I was reading the owners manual today, and read a section that stated, "Be sure the water heater BYPASS valves are set to NORMAL MODE, allowing water to enter." It shows a picture which has some red and blue hoses, with some valves visible.

I can't find these valves. They are not in the compartment with the water filter and fresh water tank drain. Nor do I see them in the water heater compartment.

We have water pressure from both the hot and cold taps, which makes me suspect that water is getting to the water heater tank, but I don't want to assume and turn on the water heater.

Please advise.

[wmtire]

If they are not at a plumbing station (if equipped) then they may be behind the water heater. You may have to go thru a cabinet, fake panel, bed bottom, etc to access them. Each RV can be different in this aspect. I would recommend locating the water heater on the outside of the RV, then go inside and see if there is a way to gain access to the back.

This sticky will help:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

and, yes you would get water from the hot water tap if the water heater is bypassed....but it's coming from the cold water line and not the water heater. You definitely need to make sure you have water in the heater before turning it on...and thus have the bypass/crossover valves correct.

You can flip up the Temperature & Pressure relief lever on the face of the water heater to verify there is water in the heater first.

This link will help with that aspect even if you don't have a Suburban brand.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html

[J42]

Thanks wmtire. I found the fake panel. For other 3051S owners, it's under the fridge.

The link to the sticky was very helpful. It explains very clearly how to set the valves for normal operation.

I've noticed a very small amount of antifreeze when replacing the drain plug for the water heater tank. Should I flush through the heater tank drain, or put the valves in normal mode and flush through the sinks and shower?

[Flybob]

That can happen if the valves are not turned completely when winterizing. If is is only a small amount, I would just leave the WH in normal mode and run water thru system via hot water faucet.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by J42

Thanks wmtire. I found the fake panel. For other 3051S owners, it's under the fridge.

The link to the sticky was very helpful. It explains very clearly how to set the valves for normal operation.

I've noticed a very small amount of antifreeze when replacing the drain plug for the water heater tank. Should I flush through the heater tank drain, or put the valves in normal mode and flush through the sinks and shower?

You are very welcome, and welcome aboard.

You did correct and asked to make sure, which may have saved you damaging your water heater. Feel free to ask any/all questions as you get your camping legs under you. That's what we are all here for.... to learn and help spread the collective knowledge.

[J42]

Thanks for the feedback. This forum is great!

[KAS]

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html


NOW I KNOW! IS IT TOO LATE?


When I bought my MH in 2013, I was given the impression by the dealer that my water heater (SW6DE) was propane only. I did notice the on/off switch on the WH itself, but I thought that it was for the igniter operation and therefore never turned it off, since I thought the indoor switch would control the actual operation of heating of the water. Of course I drain the water heater when I winterize the camper. I run the generator periodically during winter (the indoor WH switch is OFF, the switch on the water heater itself is ON). Would that burn up the heating element?

[Flybob]

Yes unless you got very very lucky. It usually takes only a few seconds. If there was enough water in the WH to cover the element, you might get buy for a short time. The elements are not difficult to change and can be found some big box stores.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by KAS

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html


NOW I KNOW! IS IT TOO LATE?


When I bought my MH in 2013, I was given the impression by the dealer that my water heater (SW6DE) was propane only. I did notice the on/off switch on the WH itself, but I thought that it was for the igniter operation and therefore never turned it off, since I thought the indoor switch would control the actual operation of heating of the water. Of course I drain the water heater when I winterize the camper. I run the generator periodically during winter (the indoor WH switch is OFF, the switch on the water heater itself is ON). Would that burn up the heating element?

Yes, it would burn up the electric heating element with no water in the heater, and it was on.

However, are sure the circuit breaker to the water heater is turned on inside your RV's electrical distribution box. Many people will turn off this circuit breaker, thus no 120 volt AC power can reach the electric heating element. Also, we have seen that the water heater is not plugged into an outlet behind the heater sometimes, again not allowing 120 volt AC power to reach the element. Maybe you are extremely lucky and one of these things may have happened prior to you owning it.

If not, it's not hard to replace the electric element, if you even want to use that option. Sounds like you may have been getting along fine without it anyway.

[stervin]

We also have a FR
instructions on web and manual are confusing
This valve is located from the outside access panel
We were also confused
Make sure AFTER you flush you reinstall the drain plug / Plastic plug
Hopes it helps
Steve

Originally Posted by J42

Hello all. We bought our first RV (2015, Forester 3051S) in December of last year, and just finished dewinterizing it today. We got good, seemingly, detailed instructions from our dealer, and things went quite well.

I was reading the owners manual today, and read a section that stated, "Be sure the water heater BYPASS valves are set to NORMAL MODE, allowing water to enter." It shows a picture which has some red and blue hoses, with some valves visible.

I can't find these valves. They are not in the compartment with the water filter and fresh water tank drain. Nor do I see them in the water heater compartment.

We have water pressure from both the hot and cold taps, which makes me suspect that water is getting to the water heater tank, but I don't want to assume and turn on the water heater.

Please advise.

[KAS]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Yes, it would burn up the electric heating element with no water in the heater, and it was on.

However, are sure the circuit breaker to the water heater is turned on inside your RV's electrical distribution box. Many people will turn off this circuit breaker, thus no 120 volt AC power can reach the electric heating element. Also, we have seen that the water heater is not plugged into an outlet behind the heater sometimes, again not allowing 120 volt AC power to reach the element. Maybe you are extremely lucky and one of these things may have happened prior to you owning it.

If not, it's not hard to replace the electric element, if you even want to use that option. Sounds like you may have been getting along fine without it anyway.

Now I am wondering what model WH I do have. I had a hard time reading the (mutilated) label, it sure looked like SW6DE. I do have a switch INSIDE the camper (like the SWDEL) that turns the WH on and off, it is always off unless I need hot water when camping. Maybe I was lucky.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by KAS

Now I am wondering what model WH I do have. I had a hard time reading the (mutilated) label, it sure looked like SW6DE. I do have a switch INSIDE the camper (like the SWDEL) that turns the WH on and off, it is always off unless I need hot water when camping. Maybe I was lucky.

How many switches to the water heater do you have INSIDE the RV?

If you only have ONE switch, it's to the dsi/propane side of your water heater.

If you have TWO switches inside (one for the dsi/propane side and another one for the electric heating element), then you would be OK just leaving the outside switch on the face of the water heater in the ON position.

But here again, if you only have ONE switch to the water heater inside the RV, then it's to the propane side...and you can only control the electric heating element from the outside switch on the face of the water heater.

[KAS]

Originally Posted by wmtire

How many switches to the water heater do you have INSIDE the RV?

If you only have ONE switch, it's to the dsi/propane side of your water heater.

If you have TWO switches inside (one for the dsi/propane side and another one for the electric heating element), then you would be OK just leaving the outside switch on the face of the water heater in the ON position.

But here again, if you only have ONE switch to the water heater inside the RV, then it's to the propane side...and you can only control the electric heating element from the outside switch on the face of the water heater.

I only have ONE switch inside on the control panel, that's the only one the dealer showed me. I guess the electric element burned out right after I bought the camper, because the outside switch was ON from the beginning. Because it is kind of hidden, I never even knew there was a switch (and nobody had mentioned it) until I noticed it last fall and turned it off for the winter, just in case. I'm sure the el. heating element is not working, because the water is cold unless I turn on the INSIDE switch.

I guess I'll either have the element replaced ($$$) or use propane only ($$ )

P.S.: THANK YOU FOR THE INFO, IT IS VERY HELPFUL!

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by KAS

I only have ONE switch inside on the control panel, that's the only one the dealer showed me. I guess the electric element burned out right after I bought the camper, because the outside switch was ON from the beginning. Because it is kind of hidden, I never even knew there was a switch (and nobody had mentioned it) until I noticed it last fall and turned it off for the winter, just in case. I'm sure the el. heating element is not working, because the water is cold unless I turn on the INSIDE switch.

I guess I'll either have the element replaced ($$$) or use propane only ($$ )

P.S.: THANK YOU FOR THE INFO, IT IS VERY HELPFUL!

Yes, unfortunately you most likely have a ruined electric heating element. It's not hard/expensive to replace this puppy if you want to do it yourself, and we have tutorials on that. Just do what you feel comfortable in attempting.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d-r-50292.html

The operation of the Suburban water heaters are one of the things that it seems many dealers fail to properly explain in PDI's....... thus the extremely detailed post in the FAQ section here. We do hope it helps many members. For the record, I think I link to that FAQ more than any other.

[KAS]

I'm quite handy, doing this myself should be no problem at all (love that Youtube!). Thank you for the tip!




Speaking of dealers, they should go through a MANDATORY factory-sponsored training class and have a walkthrough checklist that they have to share with the buyer. My dealer mis-/non-informed me on several issues. TG for this forum!