Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-04-2021, 12:58 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 24
Water heater degradation

Howdy,
Checking the anode for the first time. We have had our RV for a few years now and didn't even know there was a rod....ok dumb on me.
I am going to assume the rod will be degraded and need to be replaced bit a am curious about the tank
How do you know if it is degraded and how much?
Thanks on advance!
jerditto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 01:24 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
lmiken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 169
You can search older posts to get a lot of information. I assume you have a Suburban water heater (should post that info). It maybe hard to remove if it has been awhile (I usually need an impact tool to remove mine). You will also need to rinse out your heater tank to remove all of the residue that as accumulated over time.



https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Rinser-...8101423&sr=8-5

__________________
2015 Flagstaff 32IKBS
2008 F350 6.4
1999 Palomino Filly Popup (my daughter's now)
lmiken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 01:25 PM   #3
Pickin', Campin', Mason
 
5picker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 14,858
The tank will leak when it is degraded to the point of replacement.

How old is the tank and what does the rod look like?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	anode.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	67.5 KB
ID:	260340  
__________________
_________________________________________
2016 Flagstaff 8529IKBS Diamond Package 5th Wheel-Goodyear Endurance Tires
2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4 - Factory Puck B&W Companion
TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater - Sinemate 3500w Gen.

Days Camped: '18=51 '19=58 '20=110 '21=98
5picker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 01:28 PM   #4
Pickin', Campin', Mason
 
5picker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 14,858
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmiken View Post
You can search older posts to get a lot of information. I assume you have a Suburban water heater (should post that info). It maybe hard to remove if it has been awhile (I usually need an impact tool to remove mine). You will also need to rinse out your heater tank to remove all of the residue that as accumulated over time.
I would be VERY CAREFUL having to use an impact tool on the anode rod.

The walls of the tank are very thin where the anode bung attaches and the tank is porcelain coated. An impact tool will easily damage the tank and crack the porcelain.
__________________
_________________________________________
2016 Flagstaff 8529IKBS Diamond Package 5th Wheel-Goodyear Endurance Tires
2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4 - Factory Puck B&W Companion
TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater - Sinemate 3500w Gen.

Days Camped: '18=51 '19=58 '20=110 '21=98
5picker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 02:51 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 24
Thanks

Thanks to you all. I have a new rod on order and will check when it comes. It's not leaking now so my hope is that the tank is at least mostly ok. I'll take picks of the rod. We bought the RV used and the previous owner was pretty particular about it so he may have changed it regularly. It is a suburban. I'll be super careful removing it and hopefully won't need an impact driver. Save that for lug nuts! I think I was more worried about the tank turning into a hot water bomb than anything.
jerditto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 03:12 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Chuck_S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 2,299
There's a good chance you'll need a rattle gun to get the anode out. Use some Teflon tape on the threads when reinstalling it (or the replacement). Do not use the rattle gun to put it in, just out.

Do not leave the anode out of the tank in the winter or the threads in the bung will rust.

And since you never checked the anode on your camper there's a good likelihood you've never checked the anode on your water heater at home either...

-- Chuck
__________________
2006 Roo 23SS behind a 2017 Ford Expedition
Chuck_S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 03:15 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 689
i spray penetrating spray on rod threads, let sit a day . respray a few times. i put a ceesent wrench ,long way ,as in horizontal.screwdriver through hole in wrench and unscrew rod. teflon tape on new rod threads. open faucets to relieve pressure or you will get wet. a small tube taped to a shop vac. to suck out loose debris in tank bottom.
Thomas ho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 03:26 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
lmiken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 169
hot water bomb should not happen if the pressure relief valve is working. My anode rod is 5 years old and still has a little left on it (probably replace it next year).
__________________
2015 Flagstaff 32IKBS
2008 F350 6.4
1999 Palomino Filly Popup (my daughter's now)
lmiken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 04:21 PM   #9
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 6,127
Geez, how tight are you people tightening these anodes that you need impact guns and multiple wrenches to get them out? They don't need to be *that* tight.

I've never needed more than a regular 1/2" drive ratchet.
Iwritecode is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 04:35 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Central coast Calif.
Posts: 123
With an 1 1/16” or 27mm socket and breaker bar.
Capacitor is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 04:37 PM   #11
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 24
More good info thanks! You are right....never checked the anode on my water heater at home. That one is tankless!
jerditto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 07:46 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: payson, az
Posts: 3,231
yeah, breaker bars and impact guns seem way over the line for these anodes. i use a standard socket wrench with the 1 1/16" socket. wrap some teflon tape on the threads and hand tighten. then perhaps a 1/4 turn more using the socket. there is no need to over tighten!

i drain the tank when the trailer is in storage. it's really not a big deal, the longest part of the process is simply letting the water drain.
__________________
2015 cardinal model 3825fl
2015 dodge ram 3500 dually
CHICKDOE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 07:58 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
lmiken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 169
I never over tighten. But heat/cooling cycles tend to tighten the screws up, so I usually need an impact wrench to loosing it up. and yes I use teflon tape and I never use the impact wrench to tighten, just 1/4 turn and make sure there are no leaks. only tighten more if there is any leakage. And yes I have I 1/2" socket and 1 1/16 socket.
__________________
2015 Flagstaff 32IKBS
2008 F350 6.4
1999 Palomino Filly Popup (my daughter's now)
lmiken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2021, 08:21 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Central coast Calif.
Posts: 123
Just remember that what is missing of the rod is in the bottom of the tank. Camco has a wand for rinsing tanks but I have heard that the wand can blow of the handle so if you use one, put a hose clamp around the the tube to handle connection. you don't want it to shoot into the tank.
Capacitor is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
heater, water, water heater

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:40 AM.