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Old 07-11-2015, 03:18 PM   #1
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Water heater issues.

So, after only using iur water heater a few times, it is now not lighting properly. We turn the switch on and the light turns on. Ofter 30 seconds or so, we hear the clicking like it is trying to light, but then stops and the light in the control panel comes back on. After 30 seconds or so, the clicking starts again, and generally we hear a "minor explosion" like too much propane is being released and igniting at once, and therefore snuffing itself.

Is this common, and is there an easy way to fix it?

2012 Georgetown 351 class a.

Thanks.
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Old 07-12-2015, 07:06 PM   #2
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Ok. So the symproms are not what i thought. I started digging and i was thinking maybe a regulator for the propane. Not the case.

The actual issue seems to be at the water heater end. Maybe electrical. The gas is ignited, but once the 'clicking' stops fr the ignitor trying to ignite, the gas stips being supplied and therefore it goes out. I ha e tried manually lighting the propane, and as soon as the clicking starts, the propane lights and as soon as the clicking stops, the flame goes out.

Still hoping someone may have an idea so i can try and save a 2 hour drive to the "local" rv dealer.

Thanks.
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Old 07-12-2015, 07:20 PM   #3
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Ok. So the symproms are not what i thought. I started digging and i was thinking maybe a regulator for the propane. Not the case.

The actual issue seems to be at the water heater end. Maybe electrical. The gas is ignited, but once the 'clicking' stops fr the ignitor trying to ignite, the gas stips being supplied and therefore it goes out. I ha e tried manually lighting the propane, and as soon as the clicking starts, the propane lights and as soon as the clicking stops, the flame goes out.

Still hoping someone may have an idea so i can try and save a 2 hour drive to the "local" rv dealer.

Thanks.
The clicking you are hearing is the Direct Spark Ignitor or DSI. The DSI make sparks to ignite the propane, instead of a pilot light. Usually, the DSI will make 3 separate attempts to light the propane before it goes into lockout mode, which it will shut off the propane and quit attempting to light. Your fault light (which stays on if the switch is on but the propane fails to light) will then stay illuminated......as it is telling you there is a fault in the ignition process.

Once in lockout mode, you must turn off the DSI switch (which is the one your are turning on in your RV to start with. Wait a little, then turn it back on.These will restart the 3 attempts again.

However, if your DSI is going into lockout, is showing a bigger problem. One of the most common things is for spiders or dirt dobbers to get into the water heater burner flue. They build nests/webs that clog it up and make it hard for the DSI to light the propane properly.

You can try to clean the flue, and see what happens. You need to look for problems before attempting to keep trying to ignite the propane.



This FAQ may help if you have the Suburban water heater:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html
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Old 07-12-2015, 07:25 PM   #4
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I'm hardly an expert on WH's, but it sounds like the gas valve isn't staying open.

Post what brand WH you have and maybe someone smarter on them than I am can help you out.

I think there's some kind of thermocouple that gets heated by the gas and keeps the valve open. If you have a Suburban, this link may help.

http://hometips.me/Mar/Suburban_Wate...ice_Manual.pdf
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Old 07-12-2015, 07:35 PM   #5
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A lot of times you can try to blow some compressed air thru your burner orifice/flue tube on case it has some blockage in it (spiders). This restricts the flow of propane thru it all the way to the other end (to the right side) where the DSI is actually at.

A small brush is better than air though, as you may not get all the blockage out with just air

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Old 07-12-2015, 09:46 PM   #6
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Thanks for all the info. Will clean everything tomorrow and see if that helps. But based on the suburban manual, i am thinking i may have a bigger issue such as a thermocoupler or just a badly adjusted main burner. Will follow up once i have figured it out.
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Old 07-13-2015, 11:14 AM   #7
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Wmtire, have you ever seen these guy having too much air being brough in with the opening that big? My flue tube is exactly like the photo you have here. But my flame is half or just over half blue, and the rest is orange. My understanding is that this means too much o2 not enough gas (from my firefighter training days). Could this be the issue? I did get it lit this morning after several tries. All other gas appliances are fine and the regulator is only 3 years old. So my only guesses left are too much air, or something with the gas supply parts. Looking like it may require a trip to the dealership.
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Old 07-13-2015, 04:01 PM   #8
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Guys, i want to thank you for your tips. They got me looking not only at my setup, but at other information available online. I started looking into things from a different perspective.

It turns out that a lot of these types of units have a slotted tube over the opening of the gas flue tube to control the amount of air the goes with the fuel to be burned.

Higher altitude means less oxygen so it need to be more open. Lower altitude needs open less.

So, rather than search for and buy an expensive or possibly non existent part, i used a hose clamp to partially cover the opening. (See photo)

Now when i change elevation too much, i can simply loosen and slide this out of the way. By putting it on, i now get the flame to light after two or three clicks every time, and the flame is nearly all blue with a little orange at the end.

Hopefully this proves helpful to someone in the future. And thanks again for the tips, as they were definitely helpful. Cleaning the tube produced a small spider eggsac that had dried up as well as some other dirt and grime.
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Old 07-13-2015, 04:20 PM   #9
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Wmtire, have you ever seen these guy having too much air being brough in with the opening that big? My flue tube is exactly like the photo you have here. But my flame is half or just over half blue, and the rest is orange. My understanding is that this means too much o2 not enough gas (from my firefighter training days). Could this be the issue? I did get it lit this morning after several tries. All other gas appliances are fine and the regulator is only 3 years old. So my only guesses left are too much air, or something with the gas supply parts. Looking like it may require a trip to the dealership.
Yellow flame is a lack of oxygen, not too much.
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Old 07-13-2015, 04:24 PM   #10
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If you're happy, we're happy. Sounds like you don't have to go to the dealer now.

However, I do have bone to pick with you. You started talking about altitude and now I can't quit singing John Denver's "Rocky Mountain High".
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Old 07-13-2015, 04:24 PM   #11
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Yellow flame is a lack of oxygen, not too much.
I agree!
And usally caused by cobwebs in the burner tube.

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