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Old 05-24-2011, 11:22 AM   #1
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Water Heater plastic knobs

We just dewinterized our Rockwood 2304 but we can't turn any of the knobs on the water heater. We didn't try really hard because they feel like they'll break if we put much force on them. Can anyone tell me which direction to turn them and which order. Thanks!

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Old 05-24-2011, 11:40 AM   #2
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I'd say the one at the top is Close and the other one is Open.

Clockwise to Close
Counter Clockwise to Open.

Looks like it' the Waterr Heater By-Pass. When in one position, water does not enter the heater. Kinda hard to see on the picture.

Good luck
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:06 PM   #3
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I "think" I see 3 valves in the photo.
It appears like the middle is the bypass-- you need to close it.
The bottom is the cold inlet to the water heater-- open it.
The top is the cold supply into the hot line-- shut it.

This assumes you were in full winterized mode.
The valves can be stuck but I haven't broken one of mine yet.
Turn 'em and good luck!!
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2304 View Post
We just dewinterized our Rockwood 2304 but we can't turn any of the knobs on the water heater. We didn't try really hard because they feel like they'll break if we put much force on them. Can anyone tell me which direction to turn them and which order. Thanks!
They do turn hard. Can't remember exactly, but I think they turn clockwise to open. Like Dan says, the closed 1s need to be opened, and the open 1 needs to be closed. It really doesn't matter which order.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2304 View Post
We just dewinterized our Rockwood 2304 but we can't turn any of the knobs on the water heater. We didn't try really hard because they feel like they'll break if we put much force on them. Can anyone tell me which direction to turn them and which order. Thanks!

Attachment 5963
Parallel with water line = Open
Perpendicular with water line = Closed

For Operation: (Per your picture)
Top and bottom valves should be parallel with water lines, middle one should be perpendicular to water lines. (Note upside down valve at bottom!)

For Winterization:
As pictured. Top and bottom valves Perpendicular to water lines, middle valve parallel to water lines.

The valves can be stiff, but will only turn 45° from their current positions. (I don't remember for sure which way they turn for open/close. I think previous poster is correct.)

John
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:13 PM   #6
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OK, thanks to all of you. We'll be using the trailer this next weekend so we'll see if we can get this working.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:15 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by kalik282 View Post
The valves can be stiff, but will only turn 45° from their current positions.
I think that should be 90 degrees.....they are 1/4 turn valves.

BTW, how did you get that little degree o ??? I don't have that on my computer.

Never mind, I Googled it and found out how. °°
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:20 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
I think that should be 90 degrees.....they are 1/4 turn valves.

BTW, how did you get that little degree o ??? I don't have that on my computer.
You can only get the ° when you enter the wrong degrees of turn!

(BTW, it's a "Special Character"...many ways to type them...check google for lists!)
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:22 PM   #9
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Alt + 0176......gotta remember that.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:39 PM   #10
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You really have to wonder who they hire to put these rigs together. Three valves pointing in three different directions. It can't be more work to install them so they face the proper way
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:55 PM   #11
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Don't want to hijack your thread but I think I have the same heater and similar question. One more thing when not using should we put knobs back in winterized mode or can we leave them in operational mode.

Thanks
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:48 PM   #12
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Leave them in operational position until you winterize.
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:45 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalik282 View Post
The valves can be stiff, but will only turn 45° from their current positions.
John
I think you meant 90°
and that's my 2˘
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:44 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by jp2304 View Post
OK, thanks to all of you. We'll be using the trailer this next weekend so we'll see if we can get this working.
Else the wife will have you take a 'cold shower'
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:29 AM   #15
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I was under the assumption that if I had all 3 knobs turned correctly then the hot water tank would fill automatically while filling the potable water tank up. That didn't seem to happen, any ideas?
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:46 PM   #16
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The hot water heater will only fill you get pressure in the lines. Since you are filling your fresh water tank, turn on your water pump, open a hot water faucet or 2, and when you get a full flow or water out of those faucets, the water heater should be full. You can also do the same while hooked up to a city water supply if you don't want to use out of your fresh water tank.
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Old 05-29-2011, 05:12 PM   #17
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Thanks for the help. 2 more things if I may,

1) Is there someway to stop the hot water tank from leaking. Have I over tightened the pipey thing or under tightened?

2) Where oh where do I light the pilot light?
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Old 06-01-2011, 01:34 AM   #18
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By "pipey thing", are you referring to the plug that you can see when you open the cover for the water heater on the outside of your trailer? If so, you shouldn't have to tighten it as tight as you can get. You do, however, need to wrap the threads of the plug with teflon tape. It's a thin plastic tape that helps to seal the threads and prevent leaking.

As for lighting the pilot, you likely don't have one. Almost all water heaters in newer trailers use an electronic lighter. There should be a switch in your control panel that you turn on and which then lights your heater. You may also have a switch right at the heater that turns on an electric element. Use one or the other, only when you have a full heater tank.
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuma View Post
I was under the assumption that if I had all 3 knobs turned correctly then the hot water tank would fill automatically while filling the potable water tank up. That didn't seem to happen, any ideas?
Welcome to the group!
May I suggest you get a signature that includes your trailer make and
model and year.
OR include that in your tech questions.
Also we'd like to call you something! Maybe you need a name or handle?
I'm KyDan

AND finally..... if you have your water heater bypass valves all in the
normal use positions and you connect your trailer to a city water
hose OR fill your water tank and turn on the water pump AND open a
hot water faucet to let out the trapped air THEN your water heater
will fill.
You can test that it's full by pulling the little handle on the "pop off" valve
located near the top of the water heater tank.
Be careful if it's hot not to get burned but it should be cold until you
have confirmed that it's full.

While you're looking at the burner area of the water heater look
for a tiny little black rocker switch. It may have a safety wire in it.
Pull the wire and flip the switch ONLY after you are sure there is water
in it. This turns on the electric element if you have one.
You can use electric or gas or both at the same time if you're in a hurry
to get hot water.
IF you have electric water heater you also have a circuit breaker in your electrical
panel that should be labeled WH or something to clue you it's the water heater.

Good luck and happy camping!
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:47 PM   #20
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Thanks again for the help. I have a 2010 (or 11)Coachmen Clipper 108st. The water heater is a suburban water heater. I have managed to get water into the tank with everyone's help. It seems it only runs on propane and here is a pic of the panel. It definitely has a pilot light as the knob that says off, the next slot says pilot. I know I have to push and hold down the knob on pilot setting but can't figure out where to light it.
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