I’ll offer my advice and experience. I had purchased a new pull trailer. That winter and under warranty, the underbelly filled with water, not from the fresh water tank over the sagging underbelly. Water entry into and under the floor was from both the water heater bezel door frame that was not sealed to the tin housing face of the water heater and also from the exterior AC outlet, both leaking water into and under the floor of the coach. The underbelly cover had to be removed, the wood dried, and new insulation installed.
If the water was noticed when bringing the unit out of storage, it could also possibly be from rain water intrusion as well as the fresh water tank filling and flushing operations. Regardless, the moisture should be removed from under the floor if possible, if moisture is under the floor. There are multiple locations of the fresh water tank/system leakage, the tank its self, the fill tube and fill tube connections, the vent tube and vent tube connections, the drain tube and drain tube connections, and the outlet to the water pump and its connections to include the pump and water lines themselves.
If I suspected a water leak in the freshwater system. I would apply a very slight positive pressure to the fresh water tank and measure the pressure with a manometer for measuring water column pressure of fuel gas systems. If the small positive pressure was not maintained over time, the fresh water system is leaking and the leak needs to be identified. If the fresh water tank and piping held pressure, then the water intrusion could be from rainfall. RV’s are notorious for water intrusion at every penetration in the roof and sidewalls. Flexing and movement that occurs traveling over uneven roadways has a way of causing seams and seals to fail to include piping and other connections to loosen.
Since loose fasteners are often all over a newly constructed RV, hopefully when the fresh water tank was installed in the coach, it was not set on a loose screw some assembler dropped causing a hole to wear through the bottom if the tank.
Drying the coach out to prevent mold and mildew followed by softening and failure of the floor is the most critical thing in my opinion at this time. Once dry and before resealing the underbelly, the leak needs to be identified and repaired. Depending on the foam material mentioned, if it is just a spray foam, I would just dig it out to gain access to the drain tube and valve.
Hopefully the coach is insured, if there is insurance, the insurance should pay to repair or replace the coach depending on the extent of the damage once opened up.
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