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Old 05-22-2013, 09:20 AM   #1
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water pressure regulator

Every boat that I have ever owned that had a dockside (city) water hook up had a pressure regulator built in where the hose connects to the boat. The RV industry is way behind on this one. I think that a built in pressure regulator and built in voltage protection should be standard in EVERY RV. The manufactures can just adjust the base price to include the extra cost. I would rather pay extra for that than a built in vacuum cleaner. They can buy them cheaper then we can and it would be a great selling point.

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Old 05-22-2013, 09:23 AM   #2
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Every boat that I have ever owned that had a dockside (city) water hook up had a pressure regulator built in where the hose connects to the boat. The RV industry is way behind on this one. I think that a built in pressure regulator and built in voltage protection should be standard in EVERY RV. The manufactures can just adjust the base price to include the extra cost. I would rather pay extra for that than a built in vacuum cleaner. They can buy them cheaper then we can and it would be a great selling point.

-BC-
This is item number 3,462 on my list of things the RV needs to make standard but refuses to do so.

In all seriousness, you are absolutely correct. And I truly believe it will never happen.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:41 AM   #3
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I have had this SHURflo "built in" water entry regulator on a London Aire 5th wheel that I owned. I had to replace it two times in the six years that I owned that RV, AND, when the diaphragm ruptures the water leaks behind the wall into the inside of the RV.

SHURflo Chrome Pressure Regulated Water Fill - City Water Hookup - Water Inlets - Fresh Water Connection - Plumbing

Also, I found that the flow rate through this regulator to be very low.

I vote for an external regulator of MY choice.

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Old 05-22-2013, 09:45 AM   #4
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Is high pressure REALLY an issue?

I don't have a regulator on my house...and you can always close the valve some to reduce pressure if you feel it's too high, or fill you tank and run off the pump in your RV.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:51 AM   #5
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High pressure really is an issue for an RV. The plumbing is mostly flexible tubing (hose) and subject to high temperatures (expansion). Closing the faucet will not help regulate pressure, just the flow rate.
I use an inexpensive ($13) high flow regulator at the faucet. Good insurance IMO.

I'm with RodeoGeorge on this one.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:52 AM   #6
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I made up a pressure gauge that I hook up to the campground supply when we arrive. If the camp pressure is 50psi or less, I don't bother with the regulator.
Water pressure regulators are also rated for flow rates. The cheaper ones won't even tell you what the flow rate is. The most expensive ones will most likely have the highest flow rate, along with be adjustable.

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Old 05-22-2013, 09:52 AM   #7
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Is high pressure REALLY an issue?

I don't have a regulator on my house...and you can always close the valve some to reduce pressure if you feel it's too high, or fill you tank and run off the pump in your RV.
My house has a pressure regulator in it, put in by the builder because we're close to "the pumps" and toilets were "blowing up" before they started using them. I've seen (but never measured) very high pressure at some campgrounds and you can't know in advance if you'll be visiting one of those.

Also, you cannot reduce the static pressure by closing the valve any amount, unless it's completely OFF.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:56 AM   #8
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Is high pressure REALLY an issue?

I don't have a regulator on my house...and you can always close the valve some to reduce pressure if you feel it's too high, or fill you tank and run off the pump in your RV.
Closing the tap reduces the flow rate, but does not reduce the static (all taps closed) pressure on the RV system. It is the static pressure (which can be VERY high in some campgrounds) that can cause leaks in the system.

And OBTW, most water companies have a regulator built into the water meter that serves your home. Of course if you're on a well, that is not the case but then your pressure regulation comes from your well pump high limit setting.

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Old 05-22-2013, 10:10 AM   #9
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teh felxible hoses are pex tubing and it's better than 'hard' lines - few joints, it's flexible so it won't 'crack' from vibration and it's used in houses for years now - it can take whatever pressure you're ever likely to find. More than the hose you use to hook up with I'm sure.

PEX Pressure Ratings

100psi at 180F
160psi at 74F


The most likely issue is things (faucets, etc) coming loose from vibration from driving down the road or seals drying out or being 'eaten' by hard water.


Now house is under pressure 24/7 where an RV isn't used nearly that much - so I suppose the on again/off again pressure cycles could be a factor somewhere.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:16 AM   #10
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Is high pressure REALLY an issue?

I don't have a regulator on my house...and you can always close the valve some to reduce pressure if you feel it's too high, or fill you tank and run off the pump in your RV.
I think if you are on city water, there is a regulator somewhere in the line after the meter, they are normally set at around 45#-50#.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:19 AM   #11
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I've experienced way more low pressure than high pressure problems and the plumbing in my trailer is the same as in my house the only real difference is that the house was done by a real plumber as opposed to whom ever put the trailer plumbing in for the lowest labour rate they can get.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:23 AM   #12
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I think if you are on city water, there is a regulator somewhere in the line after the meter, they are normally set at around 45#-50#.
not here. had a talk with the water dept when I moved in.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:28 AM   #13
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not here. had a talk with the water dept when I moved in.
Pressure has to be regulated somewhere, either by the city or the meter.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:34 AM   #14
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not here. had a talk with the water dept when I moved in.
This is obviously a regional thing. it will depend not just on the city (or rural area) you are in, but also the infrastructure available. My city has notably high pressure between 70-100psi. City code requires every single home to have a built in regulator set to 50 psi mounted between the meter and the house. Local company makes them named Sioux Chief. Just thought was interesting.

I asked our city manager one night about this while we were throwing a few back at a BBQ and he stated it saves the city an amazing amount of money each year as the fire department needs less equipment with that kind of pressure at the hydrant. He noted we are lucky that our infrastructure supports those higher pressures.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:07 PM   #15
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I still believe in pressure regulators. They are inexpensive and offer protection, whether or not it's redundant, to your RV. Someone mentioned hooking up a pressure gage and checking the pressure at time of hook up. That's fine if the pressure never changes during the day, but we all know that's not always the case.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:17 PM   #16
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We have a Watts Adjustable 263A Regulator,
2" diameter 0-160 gauge, 4-4.5 gpm from the
RV Water Filter Store: RV Water Filter Store: Standard Filter Canisters for Whole RV

I googled all over the place a couple years back and these guys had
the best price. I could find the regulator for a little less elsewhere but when
I added the gauge and the 2 brass hose adapters that come with it, the price
was more elsewhere.

I know it's pricey but if you're gonna be at this a while you'll be glad to
have it. We used the little in-line brass type sold at many RV stores and
even the RV isle in WalMart but it was low flow AND it often let the pressure
creep up over nite or just between use of water. When we turned on a
faucet or flushed there would be a big whoosh of water then low flow.

The whole idea of a regulator is to regulate NOT let the pressure creep up!!

They now have a stainless oil filled gauge for $10 more. I wish I had that.
My gauge is black painted and it's starting to rust behind the glass from
being out in the rain.
Oil filled gauge won't do that.

One caveat-- it's real easy to disconnect the hose and put it away and
then stow your power cord and your chocks etc etc.... and forget to
get your regulator off the camp ground spigot!!

Don't leave it hanging there for the next guy!!
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:49 PM   #17
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I connect the regulator directly to the camper.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
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I connect the regulator directly to the camper.
I probably should as well. I put it on the spigot so the lowered pressure maybe
saves my hose as well as trailer fittings.
I have a hose washer on the regulator that has a screen. These are often
used on washing machines. I figure it might save a clogged regulator one day
but more and more CGs are using back-flow preventers on the spigots.
With one of those on there my screen washer won't allow me to screw
the regulator to the spigot.
In those cases I have to use it after the hose at the trailer.
The problem with that set up is I've already got a canister filter screwed
onto the trailer city water fitting.
If I add a regulator then I've got a lot of weight hanging on the side
of the trailer on the city water inlet.

It's always something......
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:41 PM   #19
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Don't worry about the wait. They don't weigh that much. I've done it that way for years and never had a problem.
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:44 PM   #20
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Maybe you could move the filter to the spiket.
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