Water pump doesn't shut off fully on battery.

[Outsider]

Coachman Clipper 16B - When dry docking and running on battery (2 6v golfcart Duracells) my water pump doesn't fully cycle OFF about 50% of the time. Example, when my wife washes dishes, the pump cycles ON between each dish rinsed but then "stalls" on the last revolution of the pump just before shutting OFF. This leaves it in a high current draw position (pulling the batteries down to about 11.8 vdc) until the water is turned on again or the power switch if turned OFF. It did the same thing at the end of the year last fall when I only had one 12v deep cycle marine battery.


Can the pump pressure sensor on the end of the pump be re-built or am I going to need to replace the pump? This will not be an easy fix because of the location of the pump and abundance of hoses and wires in the way of removal.


Thanks for your help.

[Happy Camper 2715]

Sounds like your not getting full current to your pump. are you sure your batteries are fully charged?

[KyDan]

You don't mention the make/model of your water pump but....
My trailer used to run the pump longer than I wanted it to after the faucet was shut off.
I adjusted the pressure switch on the pump head slightly and took care of it.
It's a screw adjustment but I don't remember if it's hex socket (allen head) or phillips head. Try turning down the pressure setting and see if that helps.

[Outsider]

The pump (from the original build sheet) is a WFCO PD130-1240E.


Yes, both new 6V Duracell batteries were fully charged when the issue started happening.


It does sound like a low voltage or low current issue but I just don't see how it can be. It acted the same way with the one 12V marine deep cycle last year as it does now with 2 brand new, fully charged, high current 6V Duracell golf cart batteries.


I'll go back and see if I can get to the 12V power connection points on the pump and verify they are tight first and then I guess I'll just have to pull it out and look for or adjust the pressure sensor switch. It is totally impossible to get to while installed.


What's the best way to remove the original factory installed "crimp" style water line clamps? Any ideas?


Thanks for your input.

[babock]

Sounds like a bad pressure switch. Possibly burnt contacts.

[KyDan]

Did you try adjusting your pressure switch???

[Trksr]

Those crimp clamps are one time only use. A small flat screwdriver will open the clamp, but Home Depot etc sells new ones and crimp pliers to install.

[Outsider]

Thanks for everyone's input.

I was able to get the pump to work reliably for now while sitting in my yard but running only on battery. I had only about 2" of clearance between the end of the pump and the side of the water heater but was able to remove the factory cover seal over the pressure switch adjustment screw. Long story short, the pump has not failed to shut off properly since I backed out on the allen screw a full turn. (I'm guessing this will cause a very slight reduction of water pressure. It seems to be just barely noticeable.) I also found one crimped wiring connection that I was not happy with so I put a new, more secure connector on there as well.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Outsider

Thanks for everyone's input.

I was able to get the pump to work reliably for now while sitting in my yard but running only on battery. I had only about 2" of clearance between the end of the pump and the side of the water heater but was able to remove the factory cover seal over the pressure switch adjustment screw. Long story short, the pump has not failed to shut off properly since I backed out on the allen screw a full turn. (I'm guessing this will cause a very slight reduction of water pressure. It seems to be just barely noticeable.) I also found one crimped wiring connection that I was not happy with so I put a new, more secure connector on there as well.

Good deal! Thanks for reporting back.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Outsider

Thanks for everyone's input.

I was able to get the pump to work reliably for now while sitting in my yard but running only on battery. I had only about 2" of clearance between the end of the pump and the side of the water heater but was able to remove the factory cover seal over the pressure switch adjustment screw. Long story short, the pump has not failed to shut off properly since I backed out on the allen screw a full turn. (I'm guessing this will cause a very slight reduction of water pressure. It seems to be just barely noticeable.) I also found one crimped wiring connection that I was not happy with so I put a new, more secure connector on there as well.

Why live with reduced pressure? Replace the switch.

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by babock

Why live with reduced pressure? Replace the switch.

It's not a bad switch.
It was simply set too high and now is working correctly.

[babock]

Originally Posted by KyDan

It's not a bad switch.
It was simply set too high and now is working correctly.

The switch should be able to work at higher pressures too. They typically are set for 45PSI but have a range lower and a little bit higher.


To me, you have a pressure switch that is marginally working. Why keep using it when you can have problems down the road and in the middle of a camping trip. I had a similar issue with my boat pressure switch. I replaced it...they are inexpensive.


I had a Shurflow model on my boat. This was the replacement https://smile.amazon.com/SHURFLO-Shu...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Its high pressure adjustment goes to 60PSI. It is preset lower than that.

They have little springs along with a diaphragm that weaken over time. That along with contacts that pit eventually and can cause the contacts to arc close, just not worth not replacing it.

[bubbles]

The pressure switch is in the head of the pump and the installation manual for the pump does not deal with measuring pressures for the adjustment but only for when the pump should shut off.

[babock]

Originally Posted by bubbles

The pressure switch is in the head of the pump and the installation manual for the pump does not deal with measuring pressures for the adjustment but only for when the pump should shut off.

Yes...just read the manual for it. I would be buying a new pump.

[KyDan]

Why replace a pump that's working perfectly???
I adjusted mine years ago and never looked back.

[Swampy]

Originally Posted by Outsider

Thanks for everyone's input.

I was able to get the pump to work reliably for now while sitting in my yard but running only on battery. I had only about 2" of clearance between the end of the pump and the side of the water heater but was able to remove the factory cover seal over the pressure switch adjustment screw. Long story short, the pump has not failed to shut off properly since I backed out on the allen screw a full turn. (I'm guessing this will cause a very slight reduction of water pressure. It seems to be just barely noticeable.) I also found one crimped wiring connection that I was not happy with so I put a new, more secure connector on there as well.

Outside, You may have repaired the problem when you replaced that bad wire connector ... a bad connection is high resistance to current flow so a high voltage drop whenever current flows thru it. You're lucky you didn't burn up the pump motor!

Swampy

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by babock

Yes...just read the manual for it. I would be buying a new pump.

Interesting. So, you would by a new pump even though part of the installation is to check the shutoff and adjust as necessary. You could go through a lot of pumps that way. Isn't that like buying a new TV and the color just isn't the way you like it right out of the box?

[babock]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Interesting. So, you would by a new pump even though part of the installation is to check the shutoff and adjust as necessary. You could go through a lot of pumps that way. Isn't that like buying a new TV and the color just isn't the way you like it right out of the box?

Maybe I missed the post somewhere that this pump is right out of the box. Thought it was 5 years old since the camper is a 2015. If so, I take back my comment.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by babock

Maybe I missed the post somewhere that this pump is right out of the box. Thought it was 5 years old since the camper is a 2015. If so, I take back my comment.

It's also in the troubleshooting tree for an existing installation.

[babock]

Originally Posted by bubbles

It's also in the troubleshooting tree for an existing installation.

If it is indeed 5 years old, I would be carrying a replacement pump with me at least. All I do is drycamp and I have even considered carrying one with my 2 year old trailer. The pumps these things come with are low end pumps and the one in this thread is a very low end pump. Fortunately, my pump is located so there is a lot of slack in the hose and fittings so I can get a pump in there that is not the exact dimensions of the original pump. Plus, if I have a spare pump, I can use it for water transfer too.