Water Pump Failure and Questions - Page 2

amblt · 10-01-2018, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodrockin

This is actually a 2 part question.

1 - I was "up north" as we call it here in Michigan, winterizing my camper last weekend when my water pump failed. Initially it would turn on but would not pump antifreeze, after a couple of hours (on and off) trying to figure out the problem it eventually died. Does anyone have a suggestion on a replacement? My unit is only 4 years old and the pump is only used to winterize, we have a permanent site so we're on city water all the time. I don't have a lot of confidence in replacing it with the same one since In my opinion it failed extremely prematurely.

2 - Since the pump failed I was not able to put antifreeze in the lines, luckily the campground manager had an air compressor and thoroughly blew all the water out of everything. In everyone's opinion, will my unit be ok all with with the lines winterized the way they are? Or should I replace the pump and add antifreeze still? I'm asking because our camper is almost 300 miles away, so I'd like to save the trip if I can.

(FYI - all the traps and toilet did get filled with antifreeze)

I use a drill driven self priming pump ($14.95) connected to the city water inlet to pump my antifreeze - it works great. If your onboard pump has never had water in it, it will be fine until you can repair or replace it. It should still have last year's antifreeze in it.
I have left TTs in our Ontario winter having only blown out the lines, and ensuring that the pump is protected and the low point drains (if any) are clear.
However, I like the antifreeze method the best.
And don't forget that pesky outdoor shower.

Cheers

woodrockin · 10-01-2018, 02:58 PM

The suggestion from earlier to get the hand pump and pump it into the city water inlet is the method I'm going with. I will never need the pump in the camper for any other reason, so at least for now I will just the hand pump. Then I can cover the camper after I'm done. (was debating l leaving uncovered this year so i didn't have to go back, but oh well)

joeuncool · 10-01-2018, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodrockin

All the low point drains were opened, drained, and blown out. The compressor ran for approximately 10 minutes and nothing but warm air was coming out of all faucets.

The motor was running but it eventually died. Do you have a recommendation for a replacement? I forgot to take a picture of the old one, so don't know what is currently installed.

The camper is in Presque Isle. My wife and I say anything from Standish on is "up north".

The one thing that bothers me about this statement is that you say the compressor ran for approximately 10 minutes. Is that for the entire job? I winterize with air but I blow the air for at least 5 minutes through each faucet individually. I make sure the compressor tank is full, I have it set at 50psi plus a pressure control valve. I only do one faucet at a time, cold then hot, so the maximum 50 psi is running through it. I let it blow for at least 5 minutes, sometimes more, because just when you think you have all the water out, more comes spitting out. I actually run through all of them once, and then check them with air one more time just to be sure. It takes me at least an hour to complete the job to include draining the water heater, taking out and draining the water filter, low point drains blown out, oh, and the outside shower which is easy to forget. Yeah and do the toilet flush too.

JohnD10 · 10-01-2018, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joeuncool

It takes me at least an hour to complete the job to include draining the water heater, taking out and draining the water filter, low point drains blown out, oh, and the outside shower which is easy to forget. Yeah and do the toilet flush too.

I use the outside shower as a low point drain, along with the other two low point drains.

That way there is no forgetting the outside shower.

I think the most forgotten item during winterization is doing the toilet.

However, if you flush the toilet while the low point drains are open that water should run out of the feed into lower plumbing pipes.

Reverse_snowbird · 10-01-2018, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by youroo

Tell us more about this low tank water auto shutoff system!

Youroo! !
Y

Have no idea how it works. If the water in the fresh water tank of our REV cannot be pumped, the water pump will not turn on to pump fresh water from tank. I think that is negated if it's turned to 'winterize', but I'm not sure. Found that out when I thought our water pump was broken. After I turned the air blue...... it fixed itself when water was added to the tank. Then I read the literature and I think it said that it was a feature of the pump but I'm operating from memory which isn't that great. (never has been)

Maxwell D Pratt · 10-01-2018, 05:53 PM

That far north I would say no. Tried that one year hear in WV and had to replace a bunch of fittings and lines tha next spring. Would make sure the system had plenty of anti-freeze withenough to fill the traps.

dsiegler · 10-01-2018, 06:36 PM

Did you empty the water filter, sediment filter, flush the toilet, and drop the shower and outside hoses?

pmsherman · 10-01-2018, 07:22 PM

If you've ever used the water pump, using the city water port to insert antifreeze will miss one critical area that needs antifreeze. The city water port is connected to the water system AFTER the water pump. If you add antifreeze through it, you will not get antifreeze into the pump housing or the water manifold (multiple pipe connection) that's located between the pump and the water tank.

I blow out my lines with compressed air but always add antifreeze through the winterizing port to fill the water lines from before the water pump to the water filter housing The plastic filter housing should also be removed to prevent small quantities of water in the housing's threads from freezing and breaking the housing.

Phil

ProfChuck · 10-01-2018, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodrockin

The suggestion from earlier to get the hand pump and pump it into the city water inlet is the method I'm going with. I will never need the pump in the camper for any other reason, so at least for now I will just the hand pump. Then I can cover the camper after I'm done. (was debating l leaving uncovered this year so i didn't have to go back, but oh well)

Ah, timing is everything. Just finished winterizing my TT. Two years ago my pump quit pumping (motor worked but, not the pump part). Decided to replace it with a new one since the head was a lot of the cost. I always use compressed air to blow out the lines. If you do all the lines as previous posters have said (I do all my faucets at least 3 times with 60# pressure.), making sure you do ALL the lines and the hot water tank and do the toilet 4 times with full pressure. Once you relieve all the pressure in the lines, make sure you have drained the freshwater tank, then take the little filter cup at the inlet to the pump (take it out and clean it) and, after disconnecting the hose from the pump to the rest of the lines, run the pump to get all the water out of it as well. When dry, I put everything back together. I was surprised how much water came out of the pump, but, if you put a towel under the outlet, you can get it without much mess. Without water anywhere in the lines you don't need antifreeze in your drinking water lines. I usually open the black and gray tank valves, put a bucket under them (assuming they are empty at that point) and put the antifreeze in the drains and toilet (don't flush it) and I'm done. I think my first pump failed because I hadn't used it at all for 2 years. Motor still works, so, someday I may get the parts to get it working again. If yours quit completely and didn't come back on, you may want to check the fuse near the pump (mine had one there) as well as the fuse at the inverter station. If that is the problem you may not need a new pump. If you are never going to use it, and the check valve on the pump is good, just blow out the lines and don't replace it until later. Good luck.

youroo · 10-02-2018, 05:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmsherman

If you've ever used the water pump, using the city water port to insert antifreeze will miss one critical area that needs antifreeze. The city water port is connected to the water system AFTER the water pump. If you add antifreeze through it, you will not get antifreeze into the pump housing or the water manifold (multiple pipe connection) that's located between the pump and the water tank.

I blow out my lines with compressed air but always add antifreeze through the winterizing port to fill the water lines from before the water pump to the water filter housing The plastic filter housing should also be removed to prevent small quantities of water in the housing's threads from freezing and breaking the housing.

Phil

The last sentence is Very important, very often overlooked, the "O-Ring area also needs to be Dry!

Youroo! !

mnoland30 · 10-02-2018, 06:34 AM

Most of the RV pumps I've seen are ShurFlo. If the motor dies, there is nothing to be fixed. Replace the pump. If the pump motor works, but doesn't pump, I've had good luck with taking the pump apart and spraying with silicone spray. A small piece of sand will disable a pump until it is cleaned out. Shurflo pumps are diaphragm pumps, and can be run empty, and they will pull water up from the water tank that is a foot or more below the pump.

woodrockin · 10-02-2018, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mnoland30

Most of the RV pumps I've seen are ShurFlo. If the motor dies, there is nothing to be fixed. Replace the pump. If the pump motor works, but doesn't pump, I've had good luck with taking the pump apart and spraying with silicone spray. A small piece of sand will disable a pump until it is cleaned out. Shurflo pumps are diaphragm pumps, and can be run empty, and they will pull water up from the water tank that is a foot or more below the pump.

The pump did work, but eventually died. I ordered the hand pump, will look and see what power pump I have when i go back up to finish.

ben31 · 10-04-2018, 02:23 PM

Good luck!

CaptnJohn · 10-11-2018, 06:23 PM

Hey Y'all…. long ago the government had surveyors determine UP North and Down South. Mason and Dixon did a great job.

HerbsRV · 10-11-2018, 06:42 PM

Three choices:
Take to dealer/repair facility ~$200.
Buy a replacement pump online ~$60.
Buy a repair/rebuild kit online ~$15.

I did the later - worked great.

Flowers65 · 10-12-2018, 09:33 AM

I would replace the Water pump & Winterized the unit. Anytime you Blow a unit out with air you will not get 100 % of the water out of a system places like the Toilet Valve could have water trapped i it and freeze. The other thing an air compressor will produce moisture when running this can get blown into the system & any bypass oils from the compressor head can get blown into your system that is why i suggest winterizing the unit.

JohnD10 · 10-12-2018, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HerbsRV

Three choices:
Take to dealer/repair facility ~$200.
Buy a replacement pump online ~$60.
Buy a repair/rebuild kit online ~$15.

I did the later - worked great.

You left one out...

Buy a brass replacement check valve to put near the water pump, takes less than five minutes to install with no tools and be done with it forever ~$15 or less

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