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Old 01-01-2017, 03:47 PM   #1
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Water pump; I'm not a smart man...

I'm not a smart man, but I can't help but believe my water pump isn't supposed to have unscrewed 4 screws and separate from itself.

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So yeah, there is that.
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Old 01-01-2017, 04:21 PM   #2
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It happens, apparently they don't make them like they used to...

It happened to a buddy of mine we drilled it out and put bolts and nylock nuts on it.

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Old 01-01-2017, 04:32 PM   #3
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I guess it's not made in the Good Ole USA!
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Old 01-01-2017, 04:35 PM   #4
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Well stuff happens!! Bolt it back up and start over. All be good!!

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Old 01-01-2017, 05:15 PM   #5
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Use Blue Loctite on screws when you reassemble it.
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:15 PM   #6
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That's the worst case of rejection I've ever seen!
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:28 PM   #7
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That's the new Shurflo Open Air Water Pump configuration. No winterization required.
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:31 PM   #8
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Mine looks like that now... but I took it apart myself!
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Mine looks like that now... but I took it apart myself!
You bought the low end model that does not include the automatic disassembly option...

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Old 01-01-2017, 05:56 PM   #10
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I would be callin Shurflo and rasing hell...o. Can just imagine what would have happened if you had needed to draw of your fresh water tank. Lots of wa wa all over.
Bet you can get a new one out of them if you push hard enough.
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Old 01-01-2017, 06:27 PM   #11
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Water pump; I'm not a smart man...

Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy0374 View Post
I would be callin Shurflo and rasing hell...o. Can just imagine what would have happened if you had needed to draw of your fresh water tank. Lots of wa wa all over.

Bet you can get a new one out of them if you push hard enough.

Grumpy
Actually, that's exactly what happened. This seems to have occurred overtime and the board it is mounted to was definitely wet.

What I don't know is if this is mold or not?!


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That said, it's a 4 year old installation.
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Old 01-01-2017, 06:27 PM   #12
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Fortunately, screwing it back together mostly worked. The threads were banged up on the motor and on the screws.

I had to do a couple of things. 1, I cleaned up the threads on the female side of the pump simply by running the screws in and out a couple of times; 2, I bought new screws (10-32 pan head machine screws) as the originals had broke "teeth" and new lock washers.

I still have everything open and think I'm going to add Loctite later. I want to re-mount the pump (the only mounting got water logged- this must have been leaking as it came apart) AND, I'd like to try and minimize some of the "hammering" of the pump by isolating it more.
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Old 01-01-2017, 06:52 PM   #13
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x2 with the nyloc nuts. I know you can get them in that size.
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Old 01-01-2017, 06:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Idaho View Post
You bought the low end model that does not include the automatic disassembly option...




Maybe that's the "entry level" one installed by mistake.


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Old 01-01-2017, 07:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
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You bought the low end model that does not include the automatic disassembly option...

Ha. I do my best to shun the automatic disassembly option on any equipment I buy!
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:05 PM   #16
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Ha. I do my best to shun the automatic disassembly option on any equipment I buy!

Naw, the surprise is entertaining!
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy0374 View Post
I would be callin Shurflo and rasing hell...o. Can just imagine what would have happened if you had needed to draw of your fresh water tank. Lots of wa wa all over.
Bet you can get a new one out of them if you push hard enough.
Grumpy
It has been my experience after disassembling mine to UNstick a stuck anti-reversing check valve that there should be no water in that open cavity. The water passes between the square "shiny" metal piece and the black plastic pump head piece. The only thing which should go on inside the open cavity in the pic is the pump motor shaft turning the eccentric which opens and closes 4 pairs of rubber valves to pump water through the black plastic parts.

EDIT: That said, when this cavity separates, the motor shaft disengages from the eccentric and pumping stops.
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Old 01-02-2017, 12:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
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It has been my experience after disassembling mine to UNstick a stuck anti-reversing check valve that there should be no water in that open cavity. The water passes between the square "shiny" metal piece and the black plastic pump head piece. The only thing which should go on inside the open cavity in the pic is the pump motor shaft turning the eccentric which opens and closes 4 pairs of rubber valves to pump water through the black plastic parts.

EDIT: That said, when this cavity separates, the motor shaft disengages from the eccentric and pumping stops.


You know- now that you say that, I did have my wife run it after I put the original screws back in. They launched themselves out and didn't dump any water out.

I think that black stuff might just be rubber from the rubber feet vibrating on the wood.
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:25 AM   #19
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Yeah, it looked to me like the pump itself was still intact; it just came away from the motor.
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Old 01-02-2017, 11:24 AM   #20
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I'm not a smart man, but I can't help but believe my water pump isn't supposed to have unscrewed 4 screws and separate from itself.

Attachment 127427

Attachment 127428

So yeah, there is that.
Here this might smarten you up; The threads on the screw act like a wedge or inclined plane, which translates force from the in-plane, rotation direction (torque) into an out-of-plane force along the axis of the screw. That is, when you rotate the screw clockwise, it applies an inward force to the screw by wedging its threads against those of the screw hole.

Once the head of the screw runs into an obstruction (when the screw is in all the way), turning it further begins to store potential energy in the elastic deformation of the metal, like compressing a spring. To convince yourself of this, consider what happens to a spring washer when it's placed between the screw and the surface. Clearly there is a constant force trying to push the screw back out. The same applies when the screw head simply compresses the surface it's screwed into, although a spring is a more efficient way to allow elastic deformation.

The reason the screw doesn't pop out immediately due to this outward force is because the friction of the threads is proportional to the axial force which pushes the metal of the screw threads into the metal of the hole threads. As the spring or outer surface deforms, the elastic force applied to the screw increases, which increases the friction of the threads.

Any questions? It's simple physics.
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