Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVLINOHIO
I have a salem 30KQBSS I flushed the lines this weekend while I was camping to get the pink stuff out and camped all weekend using the city water, I then filled my fresh water tank before leaving since our next trip will not have a water hookup. I turned the water pump on, and nothing happened, i couldn't hear it running, all fuses were fine, I could not find any valves to open going into the water pump? Where else could they be located? I also do not have any water in my hot water tank, I am brand new to all this and the dealer winterized for me last year? any suggestions?
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After your "dealer" charged you for winterizing (all of a 15 minute job) he expected you to return so he could charge you again for "de-winterizing" the camper (another 15 minute job). So he never showed you what you needed to do to do it yourself. I would find a new dealer ASAP. These guys are gonna treat you like their new .... well .... Never mind.
You said you flushed all the pink stuff out. How did you do that if the water pump did not run? There should be pink stuff in the pump and between the fresh water tank and the screen filter on the pump intake.
The water pump is self priming and just sucks water out of the fresh water tank (which must have fresh water in it to work and finish your dewinterizing).
You must not have city water pressure hooked up to run the pump. The pump puts out less pressure than city water so it will not turn on if there is still pressure in the system.
When I winterize, I use the 10 amp fuse located AT the pump as the on/off switch so I can do the job alone. (I can monitor the antifreeze hose in the gallon jug so I don't suck air or waste antifreeze.) Perhaps they did too and the fuse on the pigtail at the pump is not installed.
The hot water tank should have a valve or valves that bypass the hot water tank so you don't waste 6 gallons of antifreeze filling it over the winter.
On the outside; check to make SURE that the anode is installed and looks like it has fresh Teflon tape on the threads and the 120VAC power switch is OFF.
Then on the inside find the shutoff valve or valves (SHOULD look like the picture, but it might have one (valve in straight line with input hose - summer valve vertical up the bypass hose - winter) or two (input hose shutoff and bypass valve shutoff w/check valve at the top) or three like the photo). They all do the same thing. Isolate the 6 or 10 gallon tank from the rest of the camper's plumbing.
If you have a 2 or 3 valve isolation circuit, rotate the valves opposite the photo (which should be set up like yours is now (winterized).
If you have the 3 valve isolation circuit, open the input and output and close the bypass.
If you have a 2 valve isolation circuit, open the input and close the bypass.
If you have a one valve, rotate the valve so it is pointing to the vertical hose.
When you hear water flow, go outside and open the pressure relief valve by raising the lever on the valve and let the air out. when it stops hissing and water starts coming out; let go and it should close and no water should drip continuously.
If you have found the little black 120VAC heater switch in the "ON" position AND you have had shore power connected to the camper, you will need to replace the heating element before you can use 120VAC to heat your water. Even with the heating element blown, you will still be able to use the 12VDC/Propane heater part to heat your water.
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