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Old 09-26-2020, 09:49 PM   #1
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water pump shut off - thermal fuse?

Hello. I used my water pump to fill the fresh water tank on my Mini-Lite by way of the anti-freeze port and the ShowerMiser diverter valve for the first time on a recent trip. It works fine but the thermal cutoff kicked in after only 5 gallons. It resumed working later on its own, which is why I assume it was the thermal switch.

If I'm dry camping for awhile and have to refill the fresh tank, I'd prefer to not have to heft the water containers to shoulder level, or have to get it into the filler neck without spilling half of it. Using the water pump seems an easier way to do it but apparently it's not built for running continuously that long. Do different pumps have different continuous run times? Does anyone have suggestions for improving the process, without investing in a lot of new equipment that I don't already have and would rather not carry.

If this will work, my plan is to buy several ~5 gallon collapsible water containers and keep them in a milk crate in the truck. Those will be small enough for me to manage myself. I prefer to not go the large water bladder route if avoidable.
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Old 09-27-2020, 08:44 AM   #2
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It sounds like your pump is getting hot because of the restricted flow thru the shower mixer. Do you have an outside shower if so you could put a connection of the hose to allow you to fill with better flow from that location. You might consider a hand pump like the one sold at harbor freight or something like that just some thoughts.
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Old 09-27-2020, 08:53 AM   #3
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When I need to fill the FW tank from containers, I used a marine wash down pump. I power it from the Bargman on the TV.
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Old 09-27-2020, 09:36 AM   #4
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... Do you have an outside shower if so you could put a connection of the hose to allow you to fill with better flow from that location. ...
I do have an outside shower. Can you elaborate on how to make that connection? I plan to revise that, anyway, by replacing the shower head with a kitchen sprayer.
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Old 09-27-2020, 11:31 AM   #5
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Install a quick disconnect garden hose connection and make yourself up a hose long enough to reach the tank fill and anything else you might need. You the discharge end you could use any type sprayer or nozzle. good luck let the forum know if it works out.
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Old 09-27-2020, 12:41 PM   #6
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Another Connection Option

Anothern option is to use a garden hose to 1/2" adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hourleey-Connector-Fitting-Industrial-Fittings/dp/B087B2DZNF

This adapter has 1/2" NPT tapered threads rather than straight threads but I have never had a problem getting a shower hose to seal.
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Old 09-27-2020, 01:03 PM   #7
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I'm unclear on how to use the outside shower to get water into the fresh water tank from a portable 5 gallon tank, using the trailer's water pump. Is the outside shower used simply as a hose connection, with the hose routed outside the trailer to the gravity fill port? In that case, the trailer water pump pulls water in through the antifreeze port and pumps it out through the outside shower faucet?

If that's the case, an alternative may be easier: The return line from the showermiser passes through the cabinet housing the water pump, and on to the fresh water tank. I can put a shunt between the pump output line and showermiser return line. It would have a valve that's normally closed. By moving the winterizing intake valve from fresh tank to antifreeze, and opening the shunt valve from pump output to showermiser return, would that not pump directly to the fresh tank and bypass the restriction of the showermiser valve?

If that works, the pump would still have to move up to 60 gallons of water, including lifting it 4' from the tank on the ground outside. I suspect it could not do that continuously without the thermal fuse opening. Back to part of my original question, do different pumps have different continuous run capabilities? Or are they all built with an assumption of short intermittent use?
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Old 09-27-2020, 01:04 PM   #8
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Shaker siphon hose.
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Old 09-27-2020, 01:06 PM   #9
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Shaker siphon hose.
Does that not involve gravity? The 5 gallon source of fresh water would be on the ground, below the level of the fresh tank. My goal is to not have to pick up 60 gallons of water high enough for it to flow on its own.
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Old 09-27-2020, 01:32 PM   #10
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I put my five gallon jugs on a table, works fine. If your jugs are already in the back of your truck can you pull your truck beside your trailer?
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Old 09-27-2020, 01:34 PM   #11
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I put my five gallon jugs on a table, works fine. If your jugs are already in the back of your truck can you pull your truck beside your trailer?
If I'm boondocking somewhere, maybe, but I can't count on it.
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:41 PM   #12
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I have a 30 gallon tank that I put in the back of my TV and I use a cheap 12 volt pump from Harbor Freight to pump it into the camper. I get the 12 volts from the TV or the TT. I made up a cord to run from the battery to the side of the TT. The pump has hose connections on it so you don't have to be too close to the TT.

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Old 09-27-2020, 05:53 PM   #13
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I have a 30 gallon tank that I put in the back of my TV and I use a cheap 12 volt pump from Harbor Freight to pump it into the camper. I get the 12 volts from the TV or the TT. I made up a cord to run from the battery to the side of the TT. The pump has hose connections on it so you don't have to be too close to the TT.

Willie
Can it pump the entire 30 gallons without stopping?
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:04 PM   #14
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Yes, When I bought mine Harbor Freight had two 12 volt pumps and I bought the cheapo one. If I have to replace it I may get the bigger one. So far I've only used it three times and it worked OK.

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Old 09-27-2020, 08:44 PM   #15
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Can it pump the entire 30 gallons without stopping?
We usually camp with full hookups, but, this year we camped at several state parks and had to refill our FW tank during our stay. I bought the small pump from Harbor Freight and since I had several 6 gal. jugs I set it up using a small piece of PEX pipe as a dip tube and used a 90 degree elbow to a piece of hose leading to the pump. Since the pump has hose fittings both in and out, I just purchased the proper fittings and the hose. Also, we have never camped where there wasn't electricity, so, I bought the AC pump rather than the 12V one, and also put an in-line switch (the one you plug into and it plugs into the power source) on it. I used vinyl hose that I bought by the foot so I had enough to go from the 90 elbow to the pump and then from the pump to the filler port. By making it long enough to go down pretty far in the filler I avoided the backsplash I used to get just poring the water directly from the jug. I put the pump on the back bumper of the TT (we fill from the back) and turned on the pump and it worked amazingly well. I could control the pump with the switch even though it was plugged into the extension cord from the TT. Cost of this was minimal and, best of all, the whole thing was pretty light and easy to handle. I used one of those fold-up handcarts to hold the water jug and rolled it from the spigot in the camp. Everything stores very compactly when finished. In fact, all the hoses, the switch, and fittings fit back in the original pump box. Only the dip tube didn't fit. Just be careful you don't run the Harbor Freight pumps when dry. They do prime easily, though. At least mine does. If you wait for the coupons you can get one at 20% off. I brought two jugs along, but, found it easier to just use one and walk back and forth with the handcart. Good luck.
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Old 09-27-2020, 10:01 PM   #16
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I'll try adding a shunt connection from the trailer pump output to the fresh water line. That will cost me only a couple of t-fittings, an inline valve and some hose clamps.

By opening that valve and moving the intake valve to antifreeze, I can use the existing pump. If that pump (Shurflo) cuts out too soon, I'll go the Harbor Freight pump route. I'd rather avoid that because it may be an unnecessary expense and I also don't want yet another piece of hardware to contend with.

My use of this will be infrequent for the near future but, when I find myself in a site with no water, I really don't want to heft the tank up to shoulder level.

I'm also comparing the cost of multiple 5 gallon folding containers vs a larger (30 gallon) bladder, but I really can't justify the bladder for my needs. If I find myself boondocking out West, maybe, but that's at least a year away.
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Old 09-27-2020, 10:11 PM   #17
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Hello. I used my water pump to fill the fresh water tank on my Mini-Lite by way of the anti-freeze port and the ShowerMiser diverter valve for the first time on a recent trip. It works fine but the thermal cutoff kicked in after only 5 gallons. It resumed working later on its own, which is why I assume it was the thermal switch.

If I'm dry camping for awhile and have to refill the fresh tank, I'd prefer to not have to heft the water containers to shoulder level, or have to get it into the filler neck without spilling half of it. Using the water pump seems an easier way to do it but apparently it's not built for running continuously that long. Do different pumps have different continuous run times? Does anyone have suggestions for improving the process, without investing in a lot of new equipment that I don't already have and would rather not carry.

If this will work, my plan is to buy several ~5 gallon collapsible water containers and keep them in a milk crate in the truck. Those will be small enough for me to manage myself. I prefer to not go the large water bladder route if avoidable.
Not sure what you mean by WaterMiser shower valve but I use my anti freeze suction suction hose to fill water tank. I put in two diverter valves to direct the water from the anti freeze suction hose into the fresh water tank. I am not sure of your situation but maybe you should try putting your containers on a level of your pump or higher so the pump does not have to work so hard. That is what I do and pump will empty a 5 gallon pail in about a minute and a half. I put the buckets on a ladder step to raise them to pump level or higher.
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Old 09-27-2020, 11:29 PM   #18
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Not sure what you mean by WaterMiser shower valve but I use my anti freeze suction suction hose to fill water tank. I put in two diverter valves to direct the water from the anti freeze suction hose into the fresh water tank. I am not sure of your situation but maybe you should try putting your containers on a level of your pump or higher so the pump does not have to work so hard. That is what I do and pump will empty a 5 gallon pail in about a minute and a half. I put the buckets on a ladder step to raise them to pump level or higher.
ShowerMiser is the brand name of a diverter valve installed at the factory. You turn it in one direction to warm up the shower without wasting water or filling up your gray tank. The outflow goes back to the fresh tank, recycling the clean water.

The ShowerMiser changes color so you know it's hot. At that point you return the diverter valve to the normal position and start your shower.

That plays into how I used it because the diverter puts the water into the fresh tank.

Your approach of using a line from the pump to the fresh water line is exactly what I plan to do. That bypasses the ShowerMiser valve which someone suggested may be restricting flow to the degree that it strains the pump, leading to it over-heating. Your description of the speed of the water being pumped sounds like it's not being stressed.

Has the pump ever stopped from being overheated? What's the most water you've pumped in one session?

Edit: can you provide the source for the diverter valve you used?
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Old 09-28-2020, 11:07 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by chriscowles View Post
ShowerMiser is the brand name of a diverter valve installed at the factory. You turn it in one direction to warm up the shower without wasting water or filling up your gray tank. The outflow goes back to the fresh tank, recycling the clean water.

The ShowerMiser changes color so you know it's hot. At that point you return the diverter valve to the normal position and start your shower.

That plays into how I used it because the diverter puts the water into the fresh tank.

Your approach of using a line from the pump to the fresh water line is exactly what I plan to do. That bypasses the ShowerMiser valve which someone suggested may be restricting flow to the degree that it strains the pump, leading to it over-heating. Your description of the speed of the water being pumped sounds like it's not being stressed.

Has the pump ever stopped from being overheated? What's the most water you've pumped in one session?

Edit: can you provide the source for the diverter valve you used?
I pumped two five gallon pails back to back, no problem. I could send you a picture but after looking at the mess of hoses it probably would not help much. Just follow the flow from the anti freeze pick up hose through the pump and to the fresh water intake line. I think I picked up the diverter valves from an RV shop but any plumbing store could help as they are pex pipe for the fresh water fill and the white pipe from the pump is available at any RV store. You will need three way diverters to stop the flow one way and divert it another way. I also extended the antifreeze pickup hose.
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Old 09-28-2020, 11:13 AM   #20
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I pumped two five gallon pails back to back, no problem. I could send you a picture but after looking at the mess of hoses it probably would not help much. Just follow the flow from the anti freeze pick up hose through the pump and to the fresh water intake line. I think I picked up the diverter valves from an RV shop but any plumbing store could help as they are pex pipe for the fresh water fill and the white pipe from the pump is available at any RV store. You will need three way diverters to stop the flow one way and divert it another way. I also extended the antifreeze pickup hose.
Thanks. I'm comfortable identifying the correct hoses. I already revised some of those to improve how the ShowerMiser return line worked. I found a 3-way diverter on Amazon for about $10, to be delivered Saturday.
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