What's up with the leaks?

[episodic]

The white and blue hose in the foreground, that screw on connector - I've dealt with leaks from those at three different places. The back of the toilet, the under side of the sink in both the bathroom and kitchen. I've tightened them by hand, but at least one keeps occasionally leaking. I'm not a handy man by any means. I'm scared there are more of these elsewhere that I can't see that are leaking, too.

I am full timing for now and bringing in for service is difficult. Worth it to pay a mobile guy to come out and replace all of these? What do you recommend? I'm tired of being paranoid with a flashlight under the cabinet twice a day.

[Toddupton]

Are you using a pressure regulator?

[KenHwy61]

If you don't feel comfortable doing such plumbing work I would hire a local professional plumber rather than a RV tech. Plumbing is often a life long career and you are more likely to get a skilled person who really knows how to fix water leaks.

[episodic]

I am using a camco regulator at the source.

[KenHwy61]

If you closely at pictures you will see two different types of tubing, flexible braided and the blue pex. Note they are both attached to the same type of fitting that is actually rated for only the pex. The braided flexible tubing requires barbed-type fittings. I had many small drips and leaks from connections like these. I removed all the braided tubing and replaced it all with pex. Now all I have is pex tubing on pex fittings. Have not had any water leaks since. The reason RV manufacturers use the braided tubing at all is because it is more flexible and faster to install in tight places.

[episodic]

Would I be able to get a dealer replace all that under warranty?

[episodic]

Or conversely, are there appropriate fittings for the braided lines?

[KenHwy61]

I doubt you could get anything under warranty and probably not worth the hassle of trying. This is an industry standard practice. This would never pass a building plumbing inspection but rvs are built to a different standard. There is no fitting made that is designed to join pex to braided that I have ever found. I looked hard before deciding to redo it myself. On the positive side if you find that is your source of leaks changing the tubing is not really too hard. Most handyman and I would think any plumber could do it. The tubing is not expensive although the labor could add up because it does take time.

[episodic]

I'm just curious, what would most dealers do if you hitched up, brought it in and complained about these leaks?

[KenHwy61]

Most likely they will hook up the water and fix any leaks that are immediately present. They may add a hose clamp or do some other quick and easy fix. Don't expect them to do anymore than that especially if warranty is paying. Upgrading the water lines to all pex was something I did at my expense.

[episodic]

Thanks for thoughts. Merry Christmas!

[KenHwy61]

Merry Christmas!

[DRiveWell]

The fix might be easier than expected. Depends where the leak is occurring. If the leak is coming from the plastic/nylon fitting to tubing joint. Then the point about using the proper fitting type should solve it. The are typically 1/2" NPT thread fittings (male or female) and have a barbed end (more jagged and sharp pointed than the PEX fitting) or PEX end at the tubing interface. Proper clamping of the tubing is required. If the leak is coming from the threaded end, you can remove the fitting and wrap the threaded with two or three layers of Teflon tape and screw it back in. Hand tighten and 1/2 turn. Don't over tighten or you may crack the female side of the joint. Hope this helps.

[PenJoe]

I was going to use the braided line to get into a tight space, but noticed the braided pipe had a larger ID. I spoke to a knowledgeable person in a home improvements store. He advised against using the braided line with pex fittings because it is a guaranteed leak. A pex crimping tool is used to set pex clinch rings. The tool is designed to crimp an exact amount. You can't release the tool until it has fully crrimped the fitting. However, because the braided line has the larger ID, the tool can not fully cinch a waterproof connection.

I found a piece of clear pex that was much more flexible than the red and blue. No leaks. Another suggestion-anytime you replace a fitting, use brass rather than plastic.

A good investment for the tool box is a pex crimping tool and a bag of 1/2" cinch rings. A few of the more common brass fittings would round out the kit.This is one of those things that takes up space, but when you have to change a fitting or fix a leak, you will be glad you have it.

http://www.amazon.com/Pex-Cinch-Clam...+crimping+tool

[KenHwy61]

[QUOTE=PenJoe;1064866]I was going to use the braided line to get into a tight space, but noticed the braided pipe had a larger ID. I spoke to a knowledgeable person in a home improvements store. [I]He advised against using the braided line with pex fittings because it is a guaranteed leak. [I]A pex crimping tool is used to set pex clinch rings. The tool is designed to crimp an exact amount. You can't release the tool until it has fully crrimped the fitting. However, because the braided line has the larger ID, the tool can not fully cinch a waterproof connection.

And yet, despite the fact it is not correct and will leak, it is standard practice on virtually all RVs!

[MillerTime]

Op, i had leaks on similar lines in my sabre after i removed the water filter housing. I ended up replacing with nylon barbed ends with pipe threads on the other end. I placed 2 automotive type hose clamps on the line that was slid over the barbed end. Worked great, no problems since!

[Skyliner]

Ditto on replacing it yourself; pex is easy.

Rv tech or plumber very expensive. I once paid $300 at a campground to a rv tech on site to replace a leaking faucet. I now carry most of my plumbing tools to do it myself.

[The pope]

Always carry automotive type hose clamps to replace the compression type that are used throughout the water system. They are leaking on my Sabre. No way to tighten them up. As usual, the cheapest materials are used for quick manufacturing when these mobile housing units are pushed out the factory. Also carry some small toggle bolts to replace the wood screws that hold the window shade cords to the bottom of the window.


Pope

[KenHwy61]

Good suggestion to carry extra clamps. The cinch clamps used are high quality and will rarely leak when used in the correct application. The problem is they are often misused by RV manufacturers and subsequently are labeled as bad.

[The pope]

Update: Still chasing leaks. 2013 Sabre, The original Pex clamps on the white flexible hoses are loose. By repairing one others are beginning to leak. The Pex clamps are very difficult to remove. What appears to work is to add an additional screw type hose clamp right next to the Pex clamp. There is enough area on the fitting for this. Tighten it up and the leak is gone. I have 22 left to "duplicate clamp".

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1THAZDOWP300U

Above Amazon link for bulk hose clamps.

The plumbing arrangement and installation is a complete mess. You need to remove the panels in the basement and take a look. Unless you are unable to add redundant clamps at all pressurized connections I would expect many repair visits for leaks. Forest River should be ashamed of this. They must be aware of this unacceptable practice. Good Luck asking them for repairing this factory mistake.

Attached photos show where I have installed some redundant clamps and connections that will leak. I plan on installing redundant clamps on all connections.

Please comment if anyone finds fault in doing this. I'm not a plumber........ Doing them all at one time I hope will be the end of this issue.




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