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Old 09-20-2020, 10:59 AM   #81
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I am curious why anyone would add hazardous or any deleterious chemical to their plumbing even if touted as safe.. I dont see where its necessary and just another overdone or unnecessary maintenance chore.Prior to winter why not just drain all your tanks, water heater, filters etc , and then blow air through each fixture one by one to eliminate any water residual in the pipes. Leave all fixtures open and drains open .. done and done.
If you lived in a area that Really gets well below freezing for a period of time and knew that All RV plumbing is Not the same you would understand! Youroo! !
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Old 09-20-2020, 04:47 PM   #82
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Got any pictures?

I use a portable compressor but your way sounds interesting and possibly easier.
Please add some pictures
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Old 09-21-2020, 06:57 PM   #83
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I am curious why anyone would add hazardous or any deleterious chemical to their plumbing even if touted as safe.. I dont see where its necessary and just another overdone or unnecessary maintenance chore.Prior to winter why not just drain all your tanks, water heater, filters etc , and then blow air through each fixture one by one to eliminate any water residual in the pipes. Leave all fixtures open and drains open .. done and done.
The first time your water heater freezes and bursts a pipe you'll understand why you add antifreeze.
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:02 PM   #84
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The first time your water heater freezes and bursts a pipe you'll understand why you add antifreeze.

How can an empty water heater freeze?
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:05 PM   #85
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How can an empty water heater freeze?
Good question. Would like the answer since I drain mine every winter with no problems but have I just been lucky, well, have I?
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:12 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by JCR View Post
I am curious why anyone would add hazardous or any deleterious chemical to their plumbing even if touted as safe.. I dont see where its necessary and just another overdone or unnecessary maintenance chore.Prior to winter why not just drain all your tanks, water heater, filters etc , and then blow air through each fixture one by one to eliminate any water residual in the pipes. Leave all fixtures open and drains open .. done and done.

No need to use RV Antifreeze if is going to be stored above freezing conditions. However, there is a reason why.

The type of antifreeze is non toxic is alcohol base. Also, keep the rubber washers in the fawcets from dry rotting and last, is dirt cheap. Also, a good measure for long term storage. It flush easy when you need to use the RV and the alcohol prevent the lines from growing fungi.

As an alternate method, use an air hose with about 35 PSIG and blow the lines. Do that if you cannot find any antifreeze and is going for a short term storage.
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:13 PM   #87
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Air

I have been using air in Western Colorado with good results with some special care in a few areas.

One: You almost have to pour some anti-freeze into every sink or shower drain that has a P-trap. They are very tough to blow out.

Second: This and running some into the toilet also gets some anti-freeze into the grey and black water tanks. This covers you in case some residual water wants to settle into a low spot like the drain. All this only takes a gallon.

Third: Every line has loops or dips where moisture can regroup and freeze if you don't do a really good job. The key is to keep going around to every faucet many times until you don't even get mist. Going around and around to all the faucets is important because that allows for some time for the water to settle back into those dips in each hose. Once it settles back into one spot it comes out more completely.

Fourth: I found this out the hard way because nobody ever mentions it. If you attach air at the city water connection, the air bypasses the pump because a diaphragm pump wouldn't allow air back through the intake. The water filter/screen is on the intake side of the pump and is very susceptible to freezing. You have to empty the intake and filter manually.

Hope that helps...
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:34 PM   #88
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Even after draining the HW heater and bypassing it, and then blowing out all of the lines one by one, there will still be water left in some low spots and in ALL OF the TRAPS. You then need to open the low point water drain(s) (if your rig has them). and then pour anti freeze into all of your drains (to displace the water in the traps). And as mentioned, use the non staining antifreeze in your toilet to keep the seal moist. DO NOT FORGET to run some antifreeze through your water pump. There should be a line running into it with a petcock. Open the petcock and place the line into the bottle of anti freeze and turn on the pump to displace the water in it with the antifreeze. Then dump your black and grey tanks and add 1/2 gal of antifreeze to each (remember to leave a little in the toilet). Drain your freshwater tank (using the bottom release), and add 1/2 gallon of antifreeze to it too. In the spring, you can use the bottom release to empty it as you add water to the tank at the same time to flush it. Don't worry about the runoff, it's totally safe for pets and humans.


Sorry if this is redundant, I didn't read all of the last 5 pages of comments.


Lastly: Don't forget to purge your outside showers and sinks. And while you're at it, there is no harm in blowing out your water hoses too. Then take everything out of the rig that could freeze (I.E. canned food, bottled water, dish washing liquid...get the idea?).



Walmart caries non-toxic , non staining antifreeze for about $2.60 a gallon (the pink stuff). I just picked up mine today while it's still in stock.
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:49 PM   #89
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And.... Drain the Water Heater. Unscrew the Magnesium Rod and set aside. Do not forger to turn the water heater valves off. Shall be NO ANTIFREEZE in the water heater., just drain.
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:52 PM   #90
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That is what I do.

I also add pink stuff to all drains to dilute or displace the water in them. I add some to the toilet bowl to protect the seals.
What you do is precisely what I do. We live in a pretty mild climate for winter though (western Washington) and I have a very large garage to park the fifth wheel in, too. So no worries.
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:57 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCR View Post
I am curious why anyone would add hazardous or any deleterious chemical to their plumbing even if touted as safe.. I dont see where its necessary and just another overdone or unnecessary maintenance chore.Prior to winter why not just drain all your tanks, water heater, filters etc , and then blow air through each fixture one by one to eliminate any water residual in the pipes. Leave all fixtures open and drains open .. done and done.
I have been living in a freezing climate and camped for over 50 years and have never drank water out of the holding tank. I blow out my lines and devices with air and then pump in plumbing antifreeze. Trust me there are low spots, valves and pumps that hang onto enough water to damage your lines sometimes in inaccessible locations. I always flush everything out really well in the spring and only wash dishes and hands with the fresh water tank. We carry enough drinking water to brush our teeth, make ice cubes and drink. We never add antifreeze to the hot water tank or fresh water tank but we do flush and drain them well after each trip and at the end of the season. The lines are plastic so adding glycol doesnít add much more of a risk when compared to many sources of water at parks and campgrounds. Water sources are sketchy at best. What does concern me is camping in full service spots where people spill and contaminate every camping spot for the duration that you are there as compared to going to a common dumping station and using disposable plastic gloves and procedures to eliminate cross contamination of your tow vehicle and trailer or motorhome. I have seen people doing things on their hands and knees in a sewar pit wearing no gloves and then driving away. Stay safe and take precautions!
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:11 PM   #92
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Good question JCR, here are a couple of thoughts.

First off, RV "antifreeze" is propylene glycol. Non toxic, non corrosive, and is added to many food stuffs you most likely already consume. It is not the same composition as your car/truck antifreeze.

It does act as a lubricant and can help keep your seals and faucet washers from drying out and becoming brittle.

Secondly, not everyone has access to compressed air in the volume and time it takes to get all the air dried out of every nook and cranny. At least with the "pink stuff" you can see it flushing the water out of the faucets, hoses, tanks, toilet, the sink traps, and out the discharge pipe. I like the "insurance" factor of seeing the pink.

Not knowing where you hail from, here in NE Ohio freezing weather can beat up plastic plumbing in a heartbeat.
Propylene glycol is the automotive antifreeze not the rv stuff.
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:12 PM   #93
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I blow my lines out as well after I remove the plugs to the low point drains, fresh water tank, and heater and pour about quarter bottle of antifreeze in every pee trap. I also pour a bottle in the black tank and leave a little in the bowl to keep the seal wet.
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:21 PM   #94
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Utah checking in

I moved from So. Cal to Utah and I had to learn how to winterize my travel trailer. After much research I decided that RV anti-freeze makes it 100% winterized if you do the job correctly. And it can get pretty cold here-not for days at a time, but periodically.

So I have been through 7 winters without issues. I just traded in that 8 year old trailer-on a new one. I took my old Camco winterizing valve out of my old trailer and installed it the new one. It makes winterizing via the pump quite easy.
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:23 PM   #95
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How can an empty water heater freeze?
I am hoping he means that he drains it completely, then isolates it with the bypass, then flushes system with anti-freeze.

The metal water heater that is drained completely allows for what ever water remains to expand, but not rupture the line or tank or any other fitting.
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:23 PM   #96
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We purchased a 2014 Columbus 320rs in June. Have worked on it since then to get it road worthy. Previous owner said he winterized it. Put city water to it and had a mess!! Toilet valve was cracked, shower head and faucet were cracked, outside spray head was split. Anode rod removal too large breaker bar and good socket. Had never been out!! Have no idea why the WH didn't break but he said he had pored antifreeze in the fresh water inlet?!!?? I once let a freeze hit with another rv and it froze water pipes and pump solid. I took pump apart, only ice, nothing broken. Lucked out again!! Always winterize early, it doesn't matter what you use or do!!
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:30 PM   #97
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It doesnít make them warmer. It lowers the freezing point significantly.
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:46 PM   #98
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Definitely some good points..
However, I am not sure adding anti freeze to the pipes will make them any warmer if temperature is the deteriorating factor as mentioned.
It's not supposed to warm the pipes, it replaces any water left I'm the pipes with the antifreeze and lowers the freezing point and burst point.
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:07 PM   #99
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Iíve never put that stuff in my lines. I drain water tank and heater. Then open the low point drains on the lines. I do add a little to p traps. But never to tank or lines. Never had a problem and we get some fridged temps here.
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:37 PM   #100
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Well lots of different ways, opinions and advice. When I lived I took the antifreeze route for many, many years and though I felt it was safe I was always on city or campground water through a filter. In the end you'll be the one to decide based on a lot of good advice. Let us know what you decide. Thanks
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