Why you should always use a regulator on your City Water connection - Page 3

FleckDreher · 10-25-2018, 03:20 PM

The popular Pentair / Shurflo 4008 Series OEM and aftermarket water pumps are specified for 30 PSI inlet MAX in the data sheet. If the check valve leaks due to dirt under the seat you can lose the pump or damage it.
Many pumps are damaged this way.

110 PSI is a pump killer....

TitanMike · 10-25-2018, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flybob

Many of the inexpensive regulators simple reduce the flow as a way of controlling the pressure. The problem with this is when there is no water flowing, the pressure will build back up to pedestal pressure.

The PEX plumbing can handle significant pressure, the weak part of the system is the connections and the hose clamped flex tubing.

I have put several "cheap" regulators on my faucet then hooked my gauge to the male end of the regulator. When I turn on the faucet and pressure comes up, all have shown 50 PSI +/- 5 psi and that's with NO flow at all. All the ones that I am familiar with are not regulating by restricting flow but by spring controlled valves that actually regulate the pressure.

JohnD10 · 10-25-2018, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FleckDreher

The popular Pentair / Shurflo 4008 Series OEM and aftermarket water pumps are specified for 30 PSI inlet MAX in the data sheet.

110 PSI is a pump killer....

Since the water for the water pump comes from the fresh water tank...

High water pressure through the city water inlet should have no effect on the water pump.

johnlochbuie · 10-25-2018, 03:44 PM

Never use a regulator I don't like them pressure is to low to take a shower and have never really needed to use one

TitanMike · 10-25-2018, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnD10

Since the water for the water pump comes from the fresh water tank...

High water pressure through the city water inlet should have no effect on the water pump.

It's just the check valve in the pump that takes a beating and is #1 cause of FW tank overflow when hooked to city water. Even religiously using a regulator I am now waiting for the delivery of my replacement check valve for a 2 year old 4008 pump. While pump is out I'm installing the external check valve expected in the same delivery.

The tank overflow doesnt really bother me that much as it's all external on my trailer. The bad check valve also causes the pump to run intermittently when no water is being consumed. Annoying.

JohnD10 · 10-25-2018, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnlochbuie

Never use a regulator I don't like them pressure is to low to take a shower and have never really needed to use one

That is not why your shower pressure is too low...

It is the cheap shower head that comes from the factory, plus the fact that the shower head itself is probably filled with plastic shards that is causing low pressure in the shower.

Clean out the regulator on your shower head...and/or buy a better one (the Oxygenics RV version comes to mind)...and get yourself a regulator for the outside of your camper!

Believe me...you won't regret it!

JohnD10 · 10-25-2018, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitanMike

The tank overflow doesnt really bother me that much as it's all external on my trailer. The bad check valve also causes the pump to run intermittently when no water is being consumed. Annoying.

When my pump's check valve went bad I had a full fresh water tank of really good clean water.

But when the check valve went, the nice clean water in my fresh tank got replaced by the hard salty nasty water of southern New Mexico.

Once I put the external check valve on I had to wait a couple of weeks until I got to an RV park with good clean water to flush all of that white powder out of my fresh water tank...three tank fulls before it ran clean!

tomrob1161 · 10-25-2018, 04:09 PM

Valtera has a new "High Flow" Water Pressure Regulator, it costs a little more, around $18.00, but well worth it. 50-55 PSI, 15-20% more water flow. You'll really feel the difference in the shower.

JohnD10 · 10-25-2018, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomrob1161

Valtera has a new "High Flow" Water Pressure Regulator, it costs a little more, around $18.00, but well worth it. 50-55 PSI, 15-20% more water flow. You'll really feel the difference in the shower.

That is the one I use...

I think I got it on sale at $15 bucks.

pdqparalegal1 · 10-25-2018, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitanMike

I have two different regulators. One is a simple brass one with no gauge and the other is adjustable with a gauge. Both work the same for me. Even expensive regulators can malfunction when debris gets into them. For the most part I don't see trash coming from the water line but rather from the hose end should it get dropped on the ground. I make it a habit to open the faucet to clear it of any spiders or other thirsty bugs, then rinse end of regulator before hooking it up. I then run water through the hose to flush it before hooking up to the TT. So far this method has worked well (for over 40 years).

You don’t screw the ends of the hose together to prevent intruders?

MR.M · 10-25-2018, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitanMike

It's just the check valve in the pump that takes a beating and is #1 cause of FW tank overflow when hooked to city water. Even religiously using a regulator I am now waiting for the delivery of my replacement check valve for a 2 year old 4008 pump. While pump is out I'm installing the external check valve expected in the same delivery.

The tank overflow doesnt really bother me that much as it's all external on my trailer. The bad check valve also causes the pump to run intermittently when no water is being consumed. Annoying.

I just installed a ball valve in front of pump so since I’m mostly hooked up to city water a simple trun of the valve protects the check valve . On the road another turn of the valve and flip the pump switch and good to go

Chuck.C · 10-25-2018, 05:56 PM

A few years ago I stopped at a park where the owner said they had very high pressure, 100psi or more. He asked if I had a regulator, which I did. When I hooked up, I couldn't get any water flow. I went back and told the owner, and he asked if I had a Camco, which I did. He said those would do that under high pressure and loaned me another (I think Valterra) that worked fine. Pitched the Camco and bought an adjustable model when I left there.

aircommuter · 10-25-2018, 08:58 PM

Having built many underground water systems for public and private water companies I can tell you 27” is 1 psi. Some systems use pumps to develop the the system pressure, others use tank elevation and pressure will vary all over depending on difference between the tank and the delivery point elevations.
The highest one that was in my work area was 160psi, house filters split pretty quick that way.
My houseboat water pressure could easily vary 30psi or more as the lake water level changed, when using marina supplied water.
I like my outside faucets on the higher pressure when available, but for an RV, or house 40-60psi is the best range.

tosh99 · 10-25-2018, 10:15 PM

I posted this before on another thread.

I was at a campground that had who knows what at the pedestal. My regulator with a gauge was reading 60 pounds. It eventually caused a small water leak at the Walt Disney production PEX connection to the toilet.

When I got home, I put that same regulator on the house connection and read the same thing. I connected another regulator before the one with the gauge and it dropped to 40 pounds so apparently those regulators do fail.

Now I check each pedestal with a regular water pressure gauge before hooking up anything.

Also, I read someone else's advice and now do the same. When ever we leave the trailer, I always turn off the water at the pedestal.

TitanMike · 10-25-2018, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdqparalegal1

You don’t screw the ends of the hose together to prevent intruders?

Indeed I do but I still flush the hose anyway. Old habit just to be sure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aircommuter

Having built many underground water systems for public and private water companies I can tell you 27” is 1 psi. Some systems use pumps to develop the the system pressure, others use tank elevation and pressure will vary all over depending on difference between the tank and the delivery point elevations.
The highest one that was in my work area was 160psi, house filters split pretty quick that way.

I was complaining of low water pressure in my house and called the local Water Dept. They sent a guy out who dug up their connection to the meter, installed a line with pressure gauge on their pipe and then opened the valve. Over 110 psi on the gauge while the water was free-flowing out of the pipe and jetting across the street. The pipe was 3/4" copper so I'm sure the actual static line pressure was a lot higher.

Turned out that it was the regulator in my house. Plumber wanted $220 plus a "trip charge". Home depot $80, my torch, my solder, no sweat (except at the fittings

)

SYE · 10-26-2018, 01:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FleckDreher

The popular Pentair / Shurflo 4008 Series OEM and aftermarket water pumps are specified for 30 PSI inlet MAX in the data sheet. If the check valve leaks due to dirt under the seat you can lose the pump or damage it.
Many pumps are damaged this way.

110 PSI is a pump killer....

This is fine and dandy, but I am trying to figure out how your fresh water tank can even provide 30 psi, it works on gravity and I can not figure out how. Plus, why would you use a pressure regulator when using the pump, I do not even turn my pump on when hooked to city water.

nomad297 · 10-26-2018, 05:47 AM

These water pressure threads are always loaded with so much misinformation and lack of understanding for the differences of water flow and water pressure. So many people overthink on this topic and elaborate in ways that are just plain wrong, making this issue seem complicated.

If you are concerned with high water pressure, just buy a quality pressure regulator, set it to the output pressure you want, and use it every time you connect to any water source.

Bruce

OKI Marine · 10-26-2018, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nomad297

These water pressure threads are always loaded with so much misinformation and lack of understanding for the differences of water flow and water pressure. So many people overthink on this topic and elaborate in ways that are just plain wrong, making this issue seem complicated.

If you are concerned with high water pressure, just buy a quality pressure regulator, set it to the output pressure you want, and use it every time you connect to any water source.

Bruce

That is why we ask and say thank you for your 2 cents of info. Thank you

NJKris · 10-26-2018, 06:25 AM

Was reading what Tosh 99 wrote about gauge reading 60 psi at 2 different locations. Haven't used my gauge yet, trailer just came off assembly line yesterday. Doesn't that gauge show you the pressure you set it at? This is one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

fredoe61 · 10-26-2018, 08:48 AM

I bought a nice regulator and it failed. I got so sick of fooling with it that now I pull up and simply fill the fresh water tank and use the trailer pump. Problem solved and no worry about busted lines.

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