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Old 09-30-2019, 10:41 PM   #1
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Winterization question, running antifreeze through water pump

I just bought a 2019 grey wolf 26dbh a couple months ago and am trying to winterize it. Im pretty sure the dealer said i can just put a line into the antifreeze jug as I would like to avoid putting antifreeze in my FW tank.

I am attaching a photo of the water pump and lines, do I need to add a winterization kit? And if so, what line do i attach it to?Click image for larger version

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Old 09-30-2019, 11:00 PM   #2
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Your bypass valves are by water heater. Show us that picture if you can
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:07 PM   #3
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I already bypassed the water heater, im wondering about how to pump the antifreeze through the lines.

For example the attached picture. My dealer acted like there Click image for larger version

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Old 09-30-2019, 11:14 PM   #4
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That looks right to me There should be a valve there to turn then turn on pump to pump in
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Old 10-01-2019, 07:16 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Rockytop04 View Post
I already bypassed the water heater, im wondering about how to pump the antifreeze through the lines.

For example the attached picture. My dealer acted like there Attachment 216334was a factory tube already installed to put into the antifreeze jug but I dont believe that is the case.
I have a Coachmen Apex and there is about a 3 foot section of hose attached to the pump with a 1/4 turn valve on it and 1/4 turn valves on the pump/FW Tank suction line. I can grab the hose and insert it into the jug of RV A/F and open that valve, close the valve to the fresh water suction, close the valves to the water heater and open the water heater bypass... and then hit the bathroom wall switch to suck the fluid in and push it around my system. Picture attached.
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Old 10-01-2019, 07:23 AM   #6
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From your photo it doesn't appear you have a winterization valve/hose.

It is hard to see everything on the suction side of the pump but it appears the fresh water supply line comes out of the floor (at the big gob of foam) and attaches directly to the suction/strainer at the pump with nothing in between.

That would be where the winterization valve/hose would be.
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Old 10-01-2019, 07:26 AM   #7
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The valve that selects either FW tank or winterization hose should be on the input side of the pump just before the small black strainer on the right hand side of the pump. I do not see a winterization valve in your photo. It is possible that the valve is further down the clear line in the very back right that goes into the black sealer. If not it is very simple to add one for about $15.00. You are correct in that you do not want to put antifreeze in the FW tank as it is difficult to get out and requires many gallons to be effective. Try to follow the line from the right side of the pump through the floor and look for a valve.
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Old 10-01-2019, 07:41 AM   #8
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I have a different model, but this may help you out:
Under the trailer, there is a T valve (diverting valve) in the FW supply line to the pump from the tank. After I drain everything, I put all the low point plugs back in and turn the diverting valve to close off the tank and open up the drop leg. I fabbed an adapter to go from the threadded fitting on the drop leg to a nipple then a hose (3/8 ID if I recall) and drop the hose in the antifreeze jug. Actually, I just filled a 5 gallon bucket with antifreeze. Then I'll just turn the pump on and open up the furthest faucet. The pump sucks it right out of the bucket.
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Old 10-01-2019, 12:58 PM   #9
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x2 on what 5picker said.
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Old 10-01-2019, 04:37 PM   #10
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Most newer pumps and rv's have quick connects on both sides of the pump. For winterizing, our MH came with a 3 foot length of hose that has the male, quick connector on one end. I just have to disconnect the suction line from the pump, connect the winterizing hose, put the other end in a gallon jug of antifreeze and the gallon disappears in very short time. Then switch back to the regular suction hose.
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Old 10-01-2019, 08:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
The valve that selects either FW tank or winterization hose should be on the input side of the pump just before the small black strainer on the right hand side of the pump. I do not see a winterization valve in your photo. It is possible that the valve is further down the clear line in the very back right that goes into the black sealer. If not it is very simple to add one for about $15.00. You are correct in that you do not want to put antifreeze in the FW tank as it is difficult to get out and requires many gallons to be effective. Try to follow the line from the right side of the pump through the floor and look for a valve.
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Old 10-01-2019, 09:29 PM   #12
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Can we see a picture of freshwater fill/city water/winterizing connections on the outside of your unit, please?
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:32 PM   #13
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Recommend a different method

We used to use antifreeze for winterizing: it's a good choice if one plans on stowing the RV for half a year. However, about three years ago, my wife and I began to use the "blow down" method, which made it much easier to head south for a few days during the winter for camping.

Basically, we went to Harbor Freight (any place such as Lowes will work) and bought a small compressor/tank as well as the fittings which would adapt the compressed air line to the city water inlet on the trailer. We then used the compressed air (at about 40 psi) to blow the water out of all the pipes.

When we were done, the water pipes (and HW heater) were basically empty: the little bit still in the pipe was harmless.

Then, when we want to head south for a weekend, we just hook up the water to the "city connection", and all works. After camping, we blow the water out of the lines again: a very smooth process.

When expecting a long, hard freeze, we still pour some RV antifreeze into the black and grey tanks. These are probably not needed, but do provide some small extra insurance.
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:49 PM   #14
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I have a hot and cold low point drain, if I just drain out the water there will I still need to winterize? It gets down to 27 at night but warms up to the 50ís during the days where I keep it.
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian Gordon View Post
Can we see a picture of freshwater fill/city water/winterizing connections on the outside of your unit, please?


Thanks for all the replies everybody, I will get some better pictures tomorrow of the inside and out to get a better idea of what things look like.

I considered blowing the lines out but we get -40 to -50 in January and February on occasion so I feel the antifreeze is my best option.
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Old 10-02-2019, 06:00 AM   #16
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I have a hot and cold low point drain, if I just drain out the water there will I still need to winterize? It gets down to 27 at night but warms up to the 50ís during the days where I keep it.
Probably would be ok....probably. Even when you pop the low point drains there is still a lot of water in there. I estimate 2-3 gallons is what I pushed out. Lets say the low temp in your area got to 25. It isnt like it was 25 all might long. It is probably only below freezing for a couple hours tops. The inside of your rig is less likely to fall to 25 because of the heat that built up during the day. Thing is, records can always be broken and I wouldn't want to get taken by surprise. It would be the worst to realize in the middle of winter that I needed to go pump AF in during a cold snap.
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Old 10-02-2019, 07:10 AM   #17
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Here are several more pictures I took


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Old 10-02-2019, 07:19 AM   #18
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Open or closed underbelly ?? In post #8 EvilTwin described about the same way I do mine. I have open under belly. Pump line goes to TEE on bottom of FW tank. I disconnect the pump line, have a line made to screw onto pump hose, I fill a 3 gal bucket with AF, put end of hose in bucket, turn on pump and start doing faucets....Inside and Outside.
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Old 10-02-2019, 08:24 AM   #19
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Looing at your photos, the only way the pump will pull AF into the trailer is if there is a T fitting underneath the floor. The suction side (with the little clear bowl) only has one line and it goes through the floor. From what I can see, the suction line has a crimp clamp that is not as easy to remove as a screw style clamp. I'll bet ya a donut that it is under the rig.
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Old 10-02-2019, 08:32 AM   #20
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The bottom is enclosed, so I dont have much access or able to see much under there unfortunately. I had found my plug to drain the FW tank, so Iíll crawl back under and take a look after work.
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