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Old 10-18-2014, 06:19 PM   #21
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Noreastrv....you will have to access the area where your water pump is and there will be a valve to to switch over from the tank to the antifreeze inlet so it sucks from the antifreeze jug....you will still need a hose to suck it up with or do like ColoradoRick suggested.
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Old 10-18-2014, 06:25 PM   #22
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Thanks I see the valve so will go to Home Depot and get the hose and should be good to go, thanks everyone for your help


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Old 10-19-2014, 12:48 PM   #23
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How do you get it to prime ?


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Old 10-19-2014, 01:35 PM   #24
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How do you get it to prime ?


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Just stick your hose in the antifreeze container and the pump will suck it right up.
No priming required.
Just don't forget to turn the valve back off after, otherwise your pump won't pump any water in the spring.
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Old 10-19-2014, 01:38 PM   #25
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How do you get it to prime ?


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You have a inlet on the outside which takes a 3/4" male hose fitting. If you are not priming your valve to the fresh water tank is open. Trace that line from the pump to your tank and shut it off then it will prime. Make sure you buy pass your H/W heater 3 valves and 1 fresh water. Should have 4 valves to turn, atleast on mine. If you don't need any special fitting for the pump. Your sucking from the fresh water tank and the anti freeze it will not Prime.....Hope it helps, I went through the same thing the first time.
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Old 10-19-2014, 01:48 PM   #26
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I had a bad seal at the inlet, completed !! I noticed the gray water valve doesn't close tight, can anyone tell me if this is normal? I saw some small pieces from manufacture come out so wondering if something is jammed in there Click image for larger version

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Old 10-19-2014, 01:52 PM   #27
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I had a bad seal at the inlet, completed !! I noticed the gray water valve doesn't close tight, can anyone tell me if this is normal? I saw some small pieces from manufacture come out so wondering if something is jammed in there Attachment 65004


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Could be the plastic disk/s that was cut out of the tank for the connections.
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:49 PM   #28
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Not sure what it was, I took a small plastic tube and put it through the large drain cover end and worked it up to the valve and moved it around and after a few minutes it released and closed, thank you everyone for your help


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Old 10-19-2014, 04:33 PM   #29
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Good job, Noreast!

I got mine winterized today, too. Only a couple issues...the red low end drain cap took two pliers to get it lose and I learned that you don't build up any pressure until you close both low end drains.

And now we wait for spring! (actually, my new awning is in so the dealer will install Wednesday)


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Old 10-19-2014, 08:49 PM   #30
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I read as much info on winterizing as I could before I started but still had a couple issues, all in all I think it went well, did you end up filling the drains with anti-freeze also? I read that a lot of people do but my thought is if you circulate the antifreeze through The system and drain it out then the only remnants left behind would be the antifreeze and it won't freeze, I know the reasoning to put in the toilet is to keep the seals wet.


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Old 10-19-2014, 09:16 PM   #31
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Yes but it's just to get rid of the rest of the red stuff...they are already full of it from the faucets. One thing I don't do is put any into the fresh water tank because the drain removes it all.


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Old 10-19-2014, 09:20 PM   #32
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I leave everything as-is because in the Spring I will put hot water and a little bleach in a big bucket and de-winterize all the same lines. (Gallons and gallons)


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Old 10-20-2014, 07:01 AM   #33
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Do You have to Do the low point drain s i never did before
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:15 AM   #34
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Once you open them to drain then close them again before you start they will fill automatically. The low point drains are your weak points. They are exposed to the weather. I added two shut off valves inside the basement to them. that will keep water out of the low points. I just open the inside valves to drain them. I had those freeze camping before which caused a leak at the 90 degree fitting on mine and leaked water and filled the underbelly from expanding the clamp connector.Other then that put insulation on the low side drains sticking out the underbelly.
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:17 AM   #35
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Do You have to Do the low point drain s i never did before
Yes....if there's water in there and it's a hard freeze, it'll break them to pieces. (I had some water in my copper manifold for my sprinkler system that cracked clean in half...it's amazing!)

I'm a little paranoid about having water in both my fresh water tank drain and in the low point drains and will open them up in the winter to let whatever is in there out. (And there's usually a little bit in there.)
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:24 PM   #36
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Does anyone know what the part # is for a by-pass kit on a Georgetown 351?



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Old 10-21-2014, 01:52 AM   #37
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Yes... Blowing out the lines works great for people like us where the temps get below 32 for like three days all winter.
Works great for us too where the temps can reach -40. And when old man winter finally decides to take a hike, there's no de-winterizing. Pressurize the plumbing, leak check and go!
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