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Old 09-24-2010, 08:43 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
Hey, we can have friendly disagreements here......not a problem.

My home compressor was advertised as oil less. But when I drain the condensate out of it onto a paper towel or rag, it comes out dark brown. Whatever the dark brown stuff is, I don't want it in my drinking water lines. Of course, that is at the bottom of my tank, but I wonder if that vaporizes some when the compressor is running.
I believe the dark brown stuff is from rust on the inside of the air tank. Condensation builds in the tank and rust form(inside tank is raw metal).

When I run may compressor, I open the petcock slightly. This drains the condensate. When not using the compressor, I release the pressure/volume from the tank(leave the petcock open to dry out the tank).
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Old 09-25-2010, 04:05 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by dezolen View Post
I would still fill water lines with antifreeze even after blowing them out with air as you will never get all the water out. For the $6.00 in AF it's not much of an expense and cheap insurance against a blown waterline which will more than likely be in a location that is impossible to get at.
I do a combination of blowing lines and antifreeze. I will blow the lines, add antifreeze for any hidden locations that didn't blow dry, then blow out the antifreeze. In the process, the antifreeze goes down the sink traps, winterizing those, and also into the gray tank as a precaution just in case there was water left there.

Y'all are probably right, that the dark brown condensate is probably rusty water.

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Old 09-25-2010, 04:12 PM   #23
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Keep the pressure under 50 PSI! I didn't & yes the lines will hold a lot more pressure than that but I ruined the check valve in the city water inlet. The next spring every time I would try to use the on board water pump it would push water out the city water inlet.
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:02 AM   #24
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on blowing it out. i've never done mine. all i've done is drain it. i have had to replace two kitchen faucets from the mixing area spliting from getting the air out (or so that is what i believe caused it). i now have a metal kitchen faucet so that shouldn't happen. when ur pushing air, the sudden jerks from compressing and releasing the air put more pressure in an area than u supply. in other words, do it slowly.

for the water heater, sense i don't drain it, i put a newspaper inside the door to prevent cold air circulating thru the flame box. that's abt the only thing not insulated in there.

it rarely gets below 25 deg here so keep that in mind when u look at the way i winterize...i don't believe u could get away with my way much farther north.

circulating antifreeze sounds like the safest way. even blowing it out, i would suspect u could still have small pockets of water left (law of murphy).
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:49 PM   #25
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As a rule of thumb I use 40 psi max (set on the regulator) for clearing the lines of water and it will provide more than enough flow without damaging the plumbing. After that I use the pump siphon to fill the lines with antifreeze. It's an extra precaution but to me it's worth the extra $8 for 2 gals of liquid insurance (we have long cold winters here in Atlantic Canada). Just be sure to drain and bypass the water heater when filling the system. Using the air/antifreeze combo is definately the best way to go about winterizing your RV or TT.

Tool to clear the lines is very easy to make.

.....or you can buy one like this:
Winterize Manufacturing - Quick Connect RV Blow Out Plug
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Old 10-12-2010, 04:57 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by NWJeeper View Post
Once again Chap I have to disagree with you on the compressed air issue.

Electric home air compressors are oil less, thus what you are getting in your air is condensate (water, no oil).

This is why compressor tanks have a petcock on the bottom to periodically drain the water out of them. However, I fully recommend that everyone with a home air compressor should pay the $20 at Home Depot or your local hardware store and buy a water separator filter. This will do a great job of keeping the water out of your air.

Good lord you must have arms like Popeye Chap!
until recently, i had only seen oilless compressors for home use. the last two compressors (within the past year) that i purchaced from harbor freight, both have oil in the base with little sight glasses on them. i've also purchaced one of their pancake compressors w/o regulators with oil. i have only seen oilless in the lumber yards and discount houses for years. harbor freight is the exception so far. i don't think much, if any, actually makes it to the tank. u could possibly get oil if u used a hose that u injected oil into to keep a air driven tool lubercated. i keep that hose seperated from the others.
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Old 10-12-2010, 06:17 PM   #27
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Just to throw a curve into the mix I just winterised my 5th today and rather than use the compressor I used my 5 hp shop vac to suck the water lines dry.(less chance of contaminating water lines) Also added 2 gallons af to system just to be safe
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Old 10-12-2010, 07:08 PM   #28
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I always set the compressor regulator to 50 psi plus use my water pressure regultor also. as stated above don't forget outside shower and also don't forget black tank rinse. Also good time to check anode rod in hot water heater.
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