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09-18-2015, 01:39 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,183
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After all the draining, blowing out and water filter removal don't forget to remove the small clear plastic strainer bowl that's attached to the pump. Ask me how I know that!
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Joe & Beverly
2014 Ram 2500 CTD, CC, SB
2014 8289WS lifted
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09-18-2015, 01:52 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Waterloo Region
Posts: 729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikehend
For me (in central Michigan) I've always used compressed air for over 30 years. Blow out the lines, antifreeze in P traps and tanks.
The ONLY time I had a problem was last year, when I forgot to depress the foot pedal on the toilet...left water in the valve and it froze/cracked. (Of course that would have been a problem whether using air or antifreeze either one!)
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Exactly what happened to me too. A simple oversight ended up costing me $60 and an entire afternoon (on the day before the first trip of the season) driving all over heck's half-acre to find one (several dealers I called either lied that they had one or couldn't look up the part number to save their lives).
Going to use the pink stuff as the final step from now on (and create a checklist - CRS is starting to become a factor).
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2015 Rockwood Signature UltraLite 8282WS Platinum, GY Marathon LRD, TST 507RV TPMS
2005 GMC 2500HD CCSB D/A, Curt E16, Prodigy P2, Garmin RV760LMT w/BC-20 b/u cam
Self restraint is for the young. I'm old and want it NOW!
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09-18-2015, 02:41 PM
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#23
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Gold Miner At Heart
Join Date: May 2015
Location: N.C. Blue Ridge Mtns.
Posts: 293
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Locate the water pump and add a winterizing kit to the incoming hose. I just recently did this to mine. All you need is a three way valve, three pipe clamps and a piece of hose. For the cost of RV antifreeze compared to the cost or repairing a broken pipe behind a wall or shower it's just not worth the risk. My father in-law had a pipe break at a joint that cost a lot to repair the water damage alone. Don't risk it. I'd rather be safe with no worries that have the trouble or worries.
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“I have tried to live my life so that my family would love me and my friends would respect me. The others can do whatever the Hell they please!” —John Wayne
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09-18-2015, 03:16 PM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 40
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Wow, didn't realize this would turn into multiple pages so quick! In all honesty I have not tried to get to the pump yet, I've just read about other folks' attempts and wondered if it was worth the effort. I'm in central IL, hot summers and cold winters. We routinely get below freezing for extended periods of time (weeks) during the cold stretches of winter, and sometimes a few days below zero at a time.
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Scott, wife, 3 boys... and the dog
- 2008 Forest River Wildwood 32BHDS
- 1995 Chevrolet Suburban C2500 tow vehicle
- 1994 Thor Residency motorhome... owned 2007-2012
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09-18-2015, 03:35 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Central Oklahoma
Posts: 339
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I blow out the lines, drain the water heater and pink in the drains and toilet. Never had a problem with our MH (no water heater bypass). Last winter did this to TT. It has no pink stuff port and even though the water heater has a bypass, you have to take out the cook stove to get to it or remove a panel AND heat duct then crawl into the cabinet to get to it!
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Frank & Brenda
Thor Windsport 27K TST 507 Tire Monitors
2012 Jeep Liberty Limited Jet 4X4, Hopkins TOWD light wiring, Blue Ox baseplate W/Ready Brute Hercules tow bar and Ready brakes
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09-18-2015, 03:39 PM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Vancouver Wa
Posts: 99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbrowncods
You are good with air. I would leave the faucet valves open as well. Experiment by taking a glass of water and freeze it. The glass will not break. As long as there is air for the water to expand into as it freezes no harm is done. Nothing wrong with the ice, it is the lack of airspace to expand into that does the damage.
When I was growing up my parents had a house built in the 1800's. When they bought it we noticed that the pipes were not insulated. We were told to just let the water drip, or when it got into the "teens" shut the water off and leave all the valves open. There was no way to keep the pipes from freezing. The first winter we ended up replumbing the entire house because we forgot the advice we were given. Worked like a charm when we did it. Lived in that house 20 years and although the pipes would freeze there would be no damage.
Or use the Pink!
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You shared my thoughts exactly. I'm in Washington State, and have use compressed air for the last 15 years in my trailer, then 40 classes A and now my Wildcat 32RL 5 the wheel. Have not used pink in all those years.
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Tom Stillman
Vancouver, WA
2012 Forest River Wildcat Sterling Edition
2010 Ford F350 Super cab (With all the junk taken off) With H&S tuner and set of bags on the back.
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09-18-2015, 03:46 PM
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#27
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,499
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In north Louisiana blowing the lines out works for me but I take several other precautions. Drain wh, filter, low point drains and everything I can including outside shower hose. Then I turn on tank heater switch (they activate in the 40s) and set furnace as low as it goes. Usually go through 2 propane tanks over a winter but no damage in 10 years. PTL
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2018 Forester 3011 DS
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09-18-2015, 04:18 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Morgantown, WV
Posts: 104
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Air can be a problem.
One year I used compressed air and had a leak in a very bad spot which took lots of time and problems gaining access. I always use the pink now. The air will blow by low sections of plumbing and the water settles back into that spot. I think the layout of your plumbing is the issue.
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09-18-2015, 04:50 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Newfoundland & Labrador
Posts: 146
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I live in Newfoundland so I know about cold. I only use compressed air and like the other posts here I blow everything out completely, remove the WH anode rod, leave the faucets open and add antifreeze to the traps. I also remove my water pump (it's under the kid's bunk so it's easy to access) and store it in the basement until needed. Just remember to re-install it before you hook up the city water in the spring (ask me how I know)
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09-18-2015, 04:54 PM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 45
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In NH I have always blown with air...then ran pink in and blown a second time. When just blowing there will always be a low spot that the vapor collects in. Many years ago I just used pink and left it in there. The system tasted like crap for the season. Since then I blow it out after.
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2015 GMC Denali DRW
2014 Dynamax Trilogy 3715FB
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09-18-2015, 05:52 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomStacey616
Depends on where you live. I live in Richmond VA and only use compressed air to blow out all my lines, drains, etc. Then add some pink stuff to the traps of the sinks,toilet and shower. Oh and 1/2 gallon to both Black/Grey tanks. Never had an issue (knock on wood).
Just my .02 worth.
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Same here. I live in Northeastern Ohio and 30+ years of using only compressed air in the water lines and pink stuff in the traps and toilet bowl. No problems with any of my travel trailers or motorhome..
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09-18-2015, 06:22 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 423
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I lived in southern Indiana where I owned 2- TT and a MH. I always used the compressed air method. Some of the winters the outside temps got down to -20.
Never had a problem. When I did the air, I tried to make sure all the water was out of the lines, toilet, shower, low water lines, etc. I did pour antifreeze into each of the traps - bathroom sink, kitchen sink and shower. I left a cup of antifreeze in the toilet. I have never put antifreeze into the water lines. So I vote compressed air only into the lines.
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2015 Flagstaff 26VFKS
TV - 2014 F150 Crew Cab 5.0L
WDH - 1,200 Equalizer
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09-18-2015, 07:11 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: White Rock BC
Posts: 415
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Winterizing with Air
Always used pink until we years ago and then moved to compressed air. Quick note make sure you regulate your air to 40PSI or less to do the blow out or you can damage your system. No issues...make sure you don't forget the outside shower lines and pour pink in the sink traps and toilet. I've never put it in the tanks but could do no harm. I like it because it's clean in 5he spring
..no purging to do. Good luck!
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09-18-2015, 07:40 PM
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#34
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 74
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Personally I favor the pink stuff. I used compressed air last winter and thought I did a really good job. I made a fitting for the water line to compressor and thought i drained everything perfectly. First trip this summer, flooded trailer pretty good. Apparently the toilet valve had water in it and cracked. Didn't leak till pressure built up in the system and I wasn't looking. Now I have cut the lines in so that it is easy to suck the pink stuff in and to close off the hot water heater. I don't think I will ever use the compressed air again. My son in law used compressed air and froze his outside shower valves. Not a nice thing. Just my personal experience.
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09-18-2015, 09:09 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Missouri
Posts: 441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mguay
In NH I have always blown with air...then ran pink in and blown a second time. When just blowing there will always be a low spot that the vapor collects in. Many years ago I just used pink and left it in there. The system tasted like crap for the season. Since then I blow it out after.
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I do the same. Never a problem and the water doesn't taste like crap in the Spring.
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09-18-2015, 09:33 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,443
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In spring I flush all the pink stuff out and fill the water tank with water and a cup of Clorox sanitizing the system. I run the water to fill hot water and lines with the clorox mix then leave it for a day or two, then I flush again with straight water. Never had a bad smell or taste out of the system by doing this, and it should get done every spring anyway.
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Think about things before you do them make life easier not harder.
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09-18-2015, 11:04 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: mid Michigam
Posts: 124
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Winterized in MI for the last 20 years , two different 5rs. Compressed air in water lines , 16 oz of pink in the drains. No problems. Make sure your low point drains are clear , use 40 psi one fawset at a time clear. Drain hot water heater, and don't forget the toilet flush.
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2013 Salem Hemisphere 286 RLT
2009 Silverado 2500HD
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09-19-2015, 01:46 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Midland, MI
Posts: 954
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I always use anti-freeze. Don't forget to press the city water check valve to make sure yo replace the water in that line.
Also...as stated here several places I always made sure in the past that I let enough pink through the faucets to fill the traps...
But.... I soon discover that our Sabre does not have conventional P-traps. Instead they used a waterless check valve sort of thing that does not retain any water or antifreeze.
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Cathy & Jeff
Midland, Michigan
2020 Cedar Creek 34IK / 2019 Ram3500 CID
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09-19-2015, 04:43 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9,935
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__________________
2005 Dodge 3500 Cummins
2017 Wildwood Lodge 4092 BFL
1966 Mustang GT
1986 Mustang SVO
Lillie Spoiled Rotten Boxer Mix
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09-19-2015, 06:40 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 499
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Agree with oaklevel, have used antifreeze for 20 yrs. No bad taste, no problems ever..i dont understand why anyone would take the chance using air...
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2006 Roo 23B hybrid
2006 Ford F150 4.6L
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