Winterizing Surprise

[waybeck2018]

So, being the good little RV person, heeding all advice about winterizing, I started by draining the fresh water tank and opening low point drains. Took about five minutes then watched it drain. Then started to drain the hot water heater. What a surprise! Took forever to get the plug out. I tried crescent wrenches and various sockets. WHO would ever imagine this nylon plug needed a 1 15/16 socket?? Certainly not me. Obviously. When I finally got the plug ot no water flowed from the tank. Any ideas on why?

[cavie]

Originally Posted by waybeck2018

So, being the good little RV person, heeding all advice about winterizing, I started by draining the fresh water tank and opening low point drains. Took about five minutes then watched it drain. Then started to drain the hot water heater. What a surprise! Took forever to get the plug out. I tried crescent wrenches and various sockets. WHO would ever imagine this nylon plug needed a 1 15/16 socket?? Certainly not me. Obviously. When I finally got the plug ot no water flowed from the tank. Any ideas on why?

Did you open the temp pressure relief valve?

[A32Deuce]

You did not do the winterizing valves behind the heater before opening the low point drain. Only problem with doing that is calcium from inside the tank can/will,get into your lines and cause water flow troubles.

[kenandterry]

Because you mentioned it has a nylon plug, that pretty well guarantees you have an Atwood water heater.......Suburban units have a metal anode to drain the tank and have a 1 1/16” head.

Did you release the pressure in the water system by opening the taps?

[waybeck2018]

I did open the relief valve. I saw no way to open/close any other valves and could not find a by-pass valve. Off to the dealer to show me I guess.

[waybeck2018]

I did open all taps, shower and all sinks.

[A32Deuce]

Opening the low point drain will empty the tank.

[waybeck2018]

Behind the heater? That means getting inside and finding access to the heater. New rig for me, so now I will find the tank access. Fortunately temps have remained in the 40/50 degree range this week.

[A32Deuce]

Maybe you should tell,everyone what you have. Make, model, year. Then someone would be able to tell you where to look.

[waybeck2018]

A32 duece, thanks for the suggestion. I have a 2019 Prime Time Tracer, 34 ft

[sgtlm17]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

You did not do the winterizing valves behind the heater before opening the low point drain. Only problem with doing that is calcium from inside the tank can/will,get into your lines and cause water flow troubles.

I agree do not open low point drain until water heater is in bypass.

[Tankmaster]

Originally Posted by sgtlm17

I agree do not open low point drain until water heater is in bypass.

Can you please explain the reason for putting the water heater in by pass first. I did not switch mine over before draining the system. I did have a lot of calcium come out the drain. I plan on running the pink stuff through the system tomorrow. Is there anything else I should do since I already drained everything. Thanks in Advance

Tank

[chaps2018]

Keeps the calcium crud local to the water heater where it can be drained and not drawn to the faucets.

Excellent suggestion!!!

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by waybeck2018

A32 duece, thanks for the suggestion. I have a 2019 Prime Time Tracer, 34 ft

waybeck2018, stick with the us on the forum. The members will help you get through the small, and many times not so small problems. We will also suggest when the problem is serious enough to get the dealer/Forest River involved.

[sgtlm17]

Originally Posted by Tankmaster

Can you please explain the reason for putting the water heater in by-pass first. I did not switch mine over before draining the system. I did have a lot of calcium come out the drain. I plan on running the pink stuff through the system tomorrow. Is there anything else I should do since I already drained everything. Thanks in Advance

Tank

The water heater will form calcium deposits and other "crud" during the season. This is totally normal and should be of no concern. This calcium settles in the water heater tank. If you open the low point drain on your coach this calcium will be drawn into the water lines. This can cause blockages at plumbing fittings and more likely at sink faucets and the toilet. When you put the water heater in by-pass you eliminate this possibility. You drain the water heater separately from the remaining plumbing system. This allows all the particles in the water heater to drain safely from the water heater drain. I don't have an owners manual in front of me but I do recall that Atwwod recommends draining the water heater specifically by removing the plastic "drain plug". They also recommend flushing the water heater tank of deposits.
Hope that all makes sense.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by waybeck2018

WHO would ever imagine this nylon plug needed a 1 15/16 socket?? Certainly not me.

Are you sure that's not a typo above and the socket size was just 15/16ths? I've never seen one with almost a 2 inch drain plug head size.


As far as the bypass valves, and according to the Prime Time website, your RV has a standard 6 gallon water heater with bypass valves, that are usually located behind the water heater unless you have them in a plumbing docking station.


This thread link may help (with pics)


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by waybeck2018

When I finally got the plug ot no water flowed from the tank. Any ideas on why?

You may also have already had the tank in winterization mode with the bypass valves. We have seen many instances of this on the forums where the dealer had/left it in that mode.


Have you used the water heater since you got the RV? If so, then you know it's set for normal use since you were getting hot water from the tank.


If not, it could already be in bypass mode. The previous link I provided should show how you want the bypass valves...whether you need to set them or they are already set.

[TheWolfPaq82]

If you pulled the plug and nothing came out....."The tank was probably empty." Water will still come out regardless where the bypass valves are set and if the pressure relief valve is not open.....water will still gurgle out...just much slower.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Are you sure that's not a typo above and the socket size was just 15/16ths? I've never seen one with almost a 2 inch drain plug head size.


As far as the bypass valves, and according to the Prime Time website, your RV has a standard 6 gallon water heater with bypass valves, that are usually located behind the water heater unless you have them in a plumbing docking station.


This thread link may help (with pics)


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

Agree. Probably Typo. My old tank on our old Jayco and my sons tank in new Jayco are 15/16ths....not 1 15/16ths

[Tankmaster]

Originally Posted by sgtlm17

The water heater will form calcium deposits and other "crud" during the season. This is totally normal and should be of no concern. This calcium settles in the water heater tank. If you open the low point drain on your coach this calcium will be drawn into the water lines. This can cause blockages at plumbing fittings and more likely at sink faucets and the toilet. When you put the water heater in by-pass you eliminate this possibility. You drain the water heater separately from the remaining plumbing system. This allows all the particles in the water heater to drain safely from the water heater drain. I don't have an owners manual in front of me but I do recall that Atwwod recommends draining the water heater specifically by removing the plastic "drain plug". They also recommend flushing the water heater tank of deposits.
Hope that all makes sense.

Thanks for the explanation. I kind of drained everything at the same time so I hope I didn’t get crud in my whole system. Another note I need to put in my winterizing process. Thanks again

Tank