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11-13-2018, 06:54 PM
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#1
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waybeck2018
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 763
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Winterizing Surprise
So, being the good little RV person, heeding all advice about winterizing, I started by draining the fresh water tank and opening low point drains. Took about five minutes then watched it drain. Then started to drain the hot water heater. What a surprise! Took forever to get the plug out. I tried crescent wrenches and various sockets. WHO would ever imagine this nylon plug needed a 1 15/16 socket?? Certainly not me. Obviously. When I finally got the plug ot no water flowed from the tank. Any ideas on why?
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11-13-2018, 06:56 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waybeck2018
So, being the good little RV person, heeding all advice about winterizing, I started by draining the fresh water tank and opening low point drains. Took about five minutes then watched it drain. Then started to drain the hot water heater. What a surprise! Took forever to get the plug out. I tried crescent wrenches and various sockets. WHO would ever imagine this nylon plug needed a 1 15/16 socket?? Certainly not me. Obviously. When I finally got the plug ot no water flowed from the tank. Any ideas on why?
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Did you open the temp pressure relief valve?
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11-13-2018, 06:58 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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You did not do the winterizing valves behind the heater before opening the low point drain. Only problem with doing that is calcium from inside the tank can/will,get into your lines and cause water flow troubles.
__________________
2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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11-13-2018, 07:00 PM
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#4
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Kanadian Kamper
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 8,170
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Because you mentioned it has a nylon plug, that pretty well guarantees you have an Atwood water heater.......Suburban units have a metal anode to drain the tank and have a 1 1/16” head.
Did you release the pressure in the water system by opening the taps?
__________________
Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD, nicely modified and carried by a 2017 Ford E450 Sport
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count, pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain
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11-13-2018, 07:02 PM
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#5
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waybeck2018
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 763
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Winterizing Surprise
I did open the relief valve. I saw no way to open/close any other valves and could not find a by-pass valve. Off to the dealer to show me I guess.
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11-13-2018, 07:03 PM
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#6
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waybeck2018
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 763
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I did open all taps, shower and all sinks.
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11-13-2018, 07:03 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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Opening the low point drain will empty the tank.
__________________
2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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11-13-2018, 07:06 PM
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#8
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waybeck2018
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 763
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Behind the heater? That means getting inside and finding access to the heater. New rig for me, so now I will find the tank access. Fortunately temps have remained in the 40/50 degree range this week.
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11-13-2018, 09:27 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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Maybe you should tell,everyone what you have. Make, model, year. Then someone would be able to tell you where to look.
__________________
2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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11-13-2018, 09:29 PM
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#10
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waybeck2018
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 763
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A32 duece, thanks for the suggestion. I have a 2019 Prime Time Tracer, 34 ft
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11-13-2018, 10:23 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A32Deuce
You did not do the winterizing valves behind the heater before opening the low point drain. Only problem with doing that is calcium from inside the tank can/will,get into your lines and cause water flow troubles.
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I agree do not open low point drain until water heater is in bypass.
__________________
2016 Forester GTS 2801QSF
2011 Jeep JK Toad
Habitual RV Modifier
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11-13-2018, 10:53 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtlm17
I agree do not open low point drain until water heater is in bypass.
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Can you please explain the reason for putting the water heater in by pass first. I did not switch mine over before draining the system. I did have a lot of calcium come out the drain. I plan on running the pink stuff through the system tomorrow. Is there anything else I should do since I already drained everything. Thanks in Advance
Tank
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11-13-2018, 10:59 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 954
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Keeps the calcium crud local to the water heater where it can be drained and not drawn to the faucets.
Excellent suggestion!!!
__________________
2016 RAM 3500 DRW 4x4 LB LoneStar, w/RDS 33Gal Aux tank, Timbrens, Andersen Ultimate2, SwiftHitch SH04
2018 Chaparral 360IBL w/TST507 TPMS, Lippert GC3 Autolevel, Furrion Backup Cam, Progressive HW50C
2006 RAM 3500 DRW LoneStar Edition
2011 Starcraft 392BHUw/Andersen No-Sway
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11-13-2018, 11:20 PM
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#14
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waybeck2018
A32 duece, thanks for the suggestion. I have a 2019 Prime Time Tracer, 34 ft
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waybeck2018, stick with the us on the forum. The members will help you get through the small, and many times not so small problems. We will also suggest when the problem is serious enough to get the dealer/Forest River involved.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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11-14-2018, 07:26 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tankmaster
Can you please explain the reason for putting the water heater in by-pass first. I did not switch mine over before draining the system. I did have a lot of calcium come out the drain. I plan on running the pink stuff through the system tomorrow. Is there anything else I should do since I already drained everything. Thanks in Advance
Tank
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The water heater will form calcium deposits and other "crud" during the season. This is totally normal and should be of no concern. This calcium settles in the water heater tank. If you open the low point drain on your coach this calcium will be drawn into the water lines. This can cause blockages at plumbing fittings and more likely at sink faucets and the toilet. When you put the water heater in by-pass you eliminate this possibility. You drain the water heater separately from the remaining plumbing system. This allows all the particles in the water heater to drain safely from the water heater drain. I don't have an owners manual in front of me but I do recall that Atwwod recommends draining the water heater specifically by removing the plastic "drain plug". They also recommend flushing the water heater tank of deposits.
Hope that all makes sense.
__________________
2016 Forester GTS 2801QSF
2011 Jeep JK Toad
Habitual RV Modifier
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11-14-2018, 07:33 AM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waybeck2018
WHO would ever imagine this nylon plug needed a 1 15/16 socket?? Certainly not me.
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Are you sure that's not a typo above and the socket size was just 15/16ths? I've never seen one with almost a 2 inch drain plug head size.
As far as the bypass valves, and according to the Prime Time website, your RV has a standard 6 gallon water heater with bypass valves, that are usually located behind the water heater unless you have them in a plumbing docking station.
This thread link may help (with pics)
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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11-14-2018, 07:47 AM
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#17
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waybeck2018
When I finally got the plug ot no water flowed from the tank. Any ideas on why?
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You may also have already had the tank in winterization mode with the bypass valves. We have seen many instances of this on the forums where the dealer had/left it in that mode.
Have you used the water heater since you got the RV? If so, then you know it's set for normal use since you were getting hot water from the tank.
If not, it could already be in bypass mode. The previous link I provided should show how you want the bypass valves...whether you need to set them or they are already set.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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11-14-2018, 08:20 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 5,712
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If you pulled the plug and nothing came out....."The tank was probably empty." Water will still come out regardless where the bypass valves are set and if the pressure relief valve is not open.....water will still gurgle out...just much slower.
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11-14-2018, 08:23 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 5,712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire
Are you sure that's not a typo above and the socket size was just 15/16ths? I've never seen one with almost a 2 inch drain plug head size.
As far as the bypass valves, and according to the Prime Time website, your RV has a standard 6 gallon water heater with bypass valves, that are usually located behind the water heater unless you have them in a plumbing docking station.
This thread link may help (with pics)
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html
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Agree. Probably Typo. My old tank on our old Jayco and my sons tank in new Jayco are 15/16ths....not 1 15/16ths
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11-14-2018, 08:27 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtlm17
The water heater will form calcium deposits and other "crud" during the season. This is totally normal and should be of no concern. This calcium settles in the water heater tank. If you open the low point drain on your coach this calcium will be drawn into the water lines. This can cause blockages at plumbing fittings and more likely at sink faucets and the toilet. When you put the water heater in by-pass you eliminate this possibility. You drain the water heater separately from the remaining plumbing system. This allows all the particles in the water heater to drain safely from the water heater drain. I don't have an owners manual in front of me but I do recall that Atwwod recommends draining the water heater specifically by removing the plastic "drain plug". They also recommend flushing the water heater tank of deposits.
Hope that all makes sense.
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Thanks for the explanation. I kind of drained everything at the same time so I hope I didn’t get crud in my whole system. Another note I need to put in my winterizing process. Thanks again
Tank
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