1,000 Watt Yamaha EF1000iSC for dry camping?

elmonsanto · 05-01-2013, 10:14 PM

My wife and I have a Rockwood A122S A Frame Camper and we're wondering whether a 1,000 Watt Yamaha EF1000iSC would work for us dry camping. I have a herniated disc in my lower back and don't think I can handle the weight of the heavier EF2000iS.

Our A122S has two 6-volt 232 amp-hour batteries and we plan to only use the generator for keeping the batteries charged. Here's my best guess at what our daily 12-volt usage would be:

CO detector .............1 amp x 24 hrs.......= 24 amp-hrs
LP leak detector........1 amp x 24 hrs.......= 24 amp-hrs
water pump-----------4 amps x 0.25 hrs---= 1 amp-hr
furnace..................10 amps x 1 hr.........= 10 amp-hours
ceiling fan.............2.3 amp x 4 hrs.........= 9 amp-hours
---------------------------------------------
The total is about 68 amp-hours in 24 hours.

I could use a CO detector that runs off a 9-volt battery and save 24 amp-hours. I don't know if there are any LP leak detectors that run off of AA or 9-volt batteries. I couldn't find any on Amazon.com.

The plan is to bypass the A122S converter and connect the EF1000iSC to a external battery charger to replace the 68 amp-hours deficit. I found a battery charger on Amazon.com

Schumacher SC-10030A SpeedCharge Automatic Charger and Maintainer : Amazon.com : Automotive

that requires 7 amps on input and puts out 30 amps when bulk charging. The EF1000iSC only puts out 7.5 amps so I'm not sure the generator will supply enough power to this battery charger. Would this put too much load on the generator?

Is it realistic for use to try using EF1000iSC for dry camping? We would really appreciate any guidance you can give us.

Thanks!

GlacierGus · 05-01-2013, 11:15 PM

elmonsanto- I recently went thru the same thought process you are going through. Our Mini Lite is probably only a little larger than your TT. In my opinion a 1000 watt gen would not be large enough. I think you would want to go to a Yamaha or Honda 2000 at a minimum.

Having said that, I finally went with the Dometic 3000. It was actually less expensive than a Honda or Yamaha 2000 and just as quiet. A 3000 will also run the air conditioning whereas a 2000 will not. Only time will tell if the Dometic is as durable as a Honda.

Remember just make sure which ever gen you buy that it is an inverter unit. The inverter gens are much better for the RV electronics.

elmonsanto · 05-01-2013, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlacierGus

In my opinion a 1000 watt gen would not be large enough. I think you would want to go to a Yamaha or Honda 2000 at a minimum.

I totally agree with you that a 2000 watt generator would fit our needs better. Unfortunately, my bad back won't let me carry something the size and weight of the Yamaha 2000. I think I can manage the 10 pounds lighter and smaller 1000.

ronhanson · 05-01-2013, 11:37 PM

I think you have overestimated your CO and LP detector. I would be surprised if those consumed more than 5 amp/hrs each. I think you will be fine with your plan, you're really not consuming that much.

You might also want to consider the Black and Decker chargers, they are highly recommended on several rv forums
Black & Decker VEC1093DBD Smart Battery 40/20/10/4 Amp Battery Charger : Amazon.com : Automotive

Iggy · 05-01-2013, 11:55 PM

You are considering 12 volt DC and what you will be using is a 1,000 watt AC generator that has a 15 amp circuit.

Try this before you buy.
Hook up your trailer to a standard 120 volt 15 amp ciruit breaker at home and see if it holds or trips. That is no different than a 1,000 watt generator with a 15 amp output circuit.

Unless you plan on using an AC or Microwave I feel a 1,000 watt is all you need for your battery charger/convertor and 120 volt ceiling fan
All the rest run off of 12 volt DC battery.
And the amperages you used is not correct and pull differntly if it 12 volt DC or 120 Volt AC

Bottom line is do the home test I mention first before buying anything.

If you ahve any other questions just ask.

PS I have been a qualified Journey level electrician and Electrical project manager for over 40 years. I think I know a little about electricity.

Good luck

kz08h5 · 05-02-2013, 12:17 AM

I agree with Iggy. If all you are really trying to do is charge the batteries a 1000 w generator should handle it. I have a Honda 2000 I that I use,for dry camping. I charge the single12v deep cycle battery everyday with it and a Schumaker charger(not the one originally mentioned) and the generator barely comes off idle. My coffee pot makes it scream. After a cold snowy night in Idaho running the furnace I get the battery charged to full in about 3 hours or less.

Now if you are charging batteries and running all the stuff you listed, all bets are off.

RPAspey · 05-02-2013, 04:54 AM

Although I'm not familiar with your camper or it's converter, I think you'd be better off saving your money on the charger and just using the converter in your camper. It's designed to charge the batteries quickly and provide you 12v power while doing so. If you use the charger from Amazon, it's output will be reduced by the trailers usage. The converter has worked for you thus far right? why change.

The 1000w inverter generator is an excellent generator. If you don't use the air conditioner, nor a microwave - assuming you have one and if you turn your fridge and water heater to gas only, that ef1000is will serve you well.

Now of course there are a few things to think about: a coffee pot will consume alot of that wattage when brewing. Go ahead, brew that pot of coffee, then keep it warm using the propane. Hair dryer - not a good idea. Any other high wattage items such as toasters or electric heaters are out of the question. But then again, you're dry camping

I think you might be surprised how much that generator will power if you are conservative. If in doubt, buy a power-miser power meter, its a plug in meter that your camper can plug into. It will then show your usage in watts & amps. It should cost you about $20 at Harbor Freight, although any big box will carry it at more $. Using the meter, you can then judge if the generator will work.

Pooneil · 05-02-2013, 06:20 AM

No personal experience with your setup, but I can't imagine that the 1000 would be insufficient for charging eve those big batteries. As far as the charger, batteries are sensitive to excess charging amperage, is 30 amps too much current to put into them? If it is OK then I would buy the charger, run the batteries down half way and see if the setup works. If it draws too much current, return the charger and buy a 20 amp charger.

I have wanted one of those little gensets for a while do let us know what you find out.

TURBS · 05-02-2013, 06:29 AM

Read this.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...aws-17300.html

**KyDan** · 05-02-2013, 07:05 AM

You can get AA powered LP detectors at WalMart. I just bought one last
fall. In fact their website lists a dual pack. LP and smoke det. Both battery
powered. First Alert SCO403 Alarm Combination Pack - Walmart.com
They also list the LP alarm alone for $18. That's the one I bought last
year.

Also, a 1000 watt genny is PLENTY for battery charging!!!
This has been discussed here often and at length.
As long as you aren't wanting to run your roof AC or microwave a 1000 watt
genny is huge.

If you have a 30 amp charger--
Amps times Volts = Watts. remember we're talking about charging 12v batts.
30 amps X 12 volts = 360 watts.
Allow 20% for heat loss in the charger and you are still
WAY below your 1000 watts genny max output.
A 1000 watt genny is probably only rated 1000 for brief peak loads.
Max continuous load is more likely in the 750 - 800 watt range but you
are STILL in good shape.

OK on re-reading your post I see the charger says it requires 7 amps input??
That's a lot. Remember battery load is only highest when batteries are
seriously discharged and that load will go down fairly rapidly as batteries
charge. I still believe the 1000 is enough to do the job for you--
especially if you don't let your batteries get too discharged first.
Remember for best battery life you want to re-charge when they are
50% discharged or sooner!

I use a 25 amp output automatic charger and my 2000 genny is positively
loafing. I wish I had a lighter 1000 myself!

Get the smaller, lighter, slightly cheaper 1000 watt. I wish I had!

Goomph · 05-02-2013, 07:45 AM

I have a 950 watts (peak) generator. It does not supply enough ooomph for the trailer with no load for some reason (I turn the converter breaker on and it goes to overload mode) I connect it to my battery with a battery charger and it keeps it charged just fine. So I am guessing yours should do just fine too. I was running the battery charger in 15 amp mode.

TURBS · 05-02-2013, 07:48 AM

950 peak is only 7.5 amps which stands to reason as the on board converter is 1-8 amps.
With low batteries the converter is most likely drawing a peak 8 amps.

Goomph · 05-02-2013, 07:53 AM

Not to derail the OP's thread but, when I got my new battery, I had it charge for over 24 hours via the converter, and tried it again and same thing happened. I am guessing the converter peaks at start even with no load and trips the generator.

I want to purchase something which shows the amps the trailer draws just out of curiosity.

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

950 peak is only 7.5 amps which stands to reason as the on board converter is 1-8 amps.
With low batteries the converter is most likely drawing a peak 8 amps.

TURBS · 05-02-2013, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goomph

Not to derail the OP's thread but, when I got my new battery, I had it charge for over 24 hours via the converter, and tried it again and same thing happened. I am guessing the converter peaks at start even with no load and trips the generator.

I want to purchase something which shows the amps the trailer draws just out of curiosity.

Yes converter goes directly into bulk mode.

Pm sent.

**KyDan** · 05-02-2013, 08:26 AM

I briefly used a little 2 cycle 750 watt genny for battery charging.
I plugged in the trailer to use the on board converter/charger to charge
batteries.
The genny was pulling hard and after about 5 minutes it's overload kicked
out. After some thought I realized my refrigerator was on AUTO.
This meant as soon as I plugged in the trailer the fridge went from LP to AC.
The AC heater in the fridge draws a few amps by itself.
When I switched the fridge from auto to LP only, the genny was then able
to handle the load.
( I gave that noisy thing to my son for emergency use at home.)

If you are using a genny that is near max load be SURE your fridge is set
to LP mode and not auto mode!
ALSO DON'T FORGET your water heater probably has an AC heater!
You want to make sure that puppy is shut off so it's working on LP only
as well.

At that point you should be able charge by plugging in the trailer directly
to the genny.
I still like the stand alone charger method because my onboard converter
drops off peak charge too soon and it takes at least a few hours to finish
charging. If I'm on genny power I want it to top up the batteries as soon
as possible so I can shut it off.

And finally-- if you have a stand alone charger you can start your charge
on a lower amperage- one a 1000 genny can handle easily. Once the
batteries are partially topped up you can switch the charger to max and
it won't overload your genny.

Sorry- didn't mean to be so long winded!

TURBS · 05-02-2013, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyDan

I briefly used a little 2 cycle 750 watt genny for battery charging.
I plugged in the trailer to use the on board converter/charger to charge
batteries.
The genny was pulling hard and after about 5 minutes it's overload kicked
out. After some thought I realized my refrigerator was on AUTO.
This meant as soon as I plugged in the trailer the fridge went from LP to AC.
The AC heater in the fridge draws a few amps by itself.
When I switched the fridge from auto to LP only, the genny was then able
to handle the load.
( I gave that noisy thing to my son for emergency use at home.)

If you are using a genny that is near max load be SURE your fridge is set
to LP mode and not auto mode!
ALSO DON'T FORGET your water heater probably has an AC heater!
You want to make sure that puppy is shut off so it's working on LP only
as well.

At that point you should be able charge by plugging in the trailer directly
to the genny.
I still like the stand alone charger method because my onboard converter
drops off peak charge too soon and it takes at least a few hours to finish
charging. If I'm on genny power I want it to top up the batteries as soon
as possible so I can shut it off.

And finally-- if you have a stand alone charger you can start your charge
on a lower amperage- one a 1000 genny can handle easily. Once the
batteries are partially topped up you can switch the charger to max and
it won't overload your genny.

Sorry- didn't mean to be so long winded!

Correct kydan

Fridge on a/c mode 5-8 amps
Water heater in a/c mode 9-13 amps

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