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Old 12-26-2015, 10:41 PM   #21
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The GFCI is most likely in the receptacle in the bathroom.
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:44 PM   #22
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You keep saying there is no neutral. There will always be a neutral. The main power from the power company is two hot and one neutral. The voltage measured from each hot to the neutral will be 110V and from hot to hot 220V (actually a range for both but the same relationships). The ground is derived at the box where the main breaker is by driving a conductive rod into the ground and attaching it to the ground buss. The neutral to ground bond is done here too. The hot wires go through the breaker and the neutrals are fed from the neutral buss. The power provided to a 110V outlet will have one hot, one neutral and one ground wire. If one of these these doesn't exist then you are not conforming to code.

As I asked and Flybob asked above do you have some type power protection or surge protection device it could be detecting a fault condition and not allowing the trailer to power up. It is possible you converter also has AC fault detection and will not power up either. If this is the case unless you are an electrician or electrical engineer I think it is time you get an electrician involved. The risk of shock or fire it too high if you don't know what you are doing.
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:31 PM   #23
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You keep saying there is no neutral. There will always be a neutral. The main power from the power company is two hot and one neutral. The voltage measured from each hot to the neutral will be 110V and from hot to hot 220V (actually a range for both but the same relationships). The ground is derived at the box where the main breaker is by driving a conductive rod into the ground and attaching it to the ground buss. The neutral to ground bond is done here too. The hot wires go through the breaker and the neutrals are fed from the neutral buss. The power provided to a 110V outlet will have one hot, one neutral and one ground wire. If one of these these doesn't exist then you are not conforming to code.

As I asked and Flybob asked above do you have some type power protection or surge protection device it could be detecting a fault condition and not allowing the trailer to power up. It is possible you converter also has AC fault detection and will not power up either. If this is the case unless you are an electrician or electrical engineer I think it is time you get an electrician involved. The risk of shock or fire it too high if you don't know what you are doing.

X2 on that. Something seems not right on the electrical side and a licensed electrician should evaluate it.


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Old 12-27-2015, 08:22 AM   #24
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I moved my camper to another location and everything worked when i plug in my 30 amp plug. I left and came back a few days later and now the 120 volt system is not working. Any suggestions?
Hi Remove plug on side of TT. Check for power at the end of the power cord that plugs into the TT if no power look for a problem from plug to the beaker that supply's power to the plug end. Inspect the power plug cord end and the TT plug for damage. When you plug the power cord back into the TT make sure to twist the power cord to the right just a little bit and tighten the lock ring on power cord to TT. If the power cord connection is not tight it may result in damage to the connection.

Hope This Helps Tim
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:55 AM   #25
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My power cord has a little red indicator that comes on when power is available from the source. I assume it shows any power but is it possible that if there is not correct power (i.e., only one lug powered on the 50 amp hot sides) that the light would give some indication of that?
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Old 12-27-2015, 12:50 PM   #26
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I moved my camper to another location and everything worked when i plug in my 30 amp plug. I left and came back a few days later and now the 120 volt system is not working. Any suggestions?
I have two GFI plug ins.... check the buttons, might be it..

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Old 12-27-2015, 02:21 PM   #27
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You will have systematically troubleshoot work downstream from pole receptacle with your meter. Check input to main breaker if nothing check cord plug and wiring and so on. Could be a bad connection
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Old 12-27-2015, 04:53 PM   #28
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had a very similar problem in Nova Scotia this summer. Turned out the solenoid for the gennie was partially tripped. Start the gennie what until the microwave powers up. Stop the gennie and then try shore power. Solved my problem.

The GFI is another one to check , normally located in the bathroom .
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Old 12-27-2015, 06:02 PM   #29
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GFCI outlets inside the trailer do not normally affect microwave and TV outlets and the OP said neither of these devices work.
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Old 12-27-2015, 08:55 PM   #30
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No 120V

Two years watched a guy with an older TT (no GFI) plug in and touch the TT - he jumped a few feet. The neutral and ground were tied together, the ground was not grounded. in fact it was about 60v above ground. The park gave the guy an extension to get to another post. In order for a GFI to function correctly you need Ground separate so it sees a voltage differential to neutral.
Get a Progressive EMS box, it checks incoming power connections, it has saved me and my electronics several times.
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:10 PM   #31
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UPDATE!!! Found a burnt wire where my power cable connects inside the camper. I cut the burnt wires and reattached and now everything works. Thanks for everybody's help...
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:27 PM   #32
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UPDATE!!! Found a burnt wire where my power cable connects inside the camper. I cut the burnt wires and reattached and now everything works. Thanks for everybody's help...
Great news!
Thanks for reporting back.
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:31 PM   #33
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UPDATE!!! Found a burnt wire where my power cable connects inside the camper. I cut the burnt wires and reattached and now everything works. Thanks for everybody's help...
Glad you are back online. Now find why it burnt.

Keep the faith and keep sharing. We all learn from these conversations. Oh yah, post pictures for people like me that have not seen the components and condition.

If you want, add your rig age and model to your signature. Might help folks with ideas as to a resolution or place to start.
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:39 PM   #34
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A burnt wire at a connection usually means that the connection was loose which results in a high resistance connection ( generates heat). I would check the remaining connections in the area to insure they were secure as well. Poor connections usually reveal themselves when the current draw is high. Glad you found it and shared your resolution.
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Old 12-27-2015, 10:32 PM   #35
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You're lucky it didn't burn the camper, too! Maybe you should buy a lottery ticket!
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:05 AM   #36
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llawson2, Bravo Zulu
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:26 AM   #37
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I agree with D.J. Schuler about getting a Progressive EMS Box. It saved my electronics as well!
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:53 AM   #38
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FWIW The ground and neutral went to the same buss for years. When GFI's became common the code was changed to split ground from neutral.

FWIW 2 if you look at the spec for a camper outlet it specifies bonding ground and neutral at the box on the pole/wall/whatever. It is not a shock hazard.
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:56 AM   #39
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Iím glad to see your loss of power was discovered and fixed. However, I am concerned that you still havenít added a proper ground circuit to your wiring.

An electrician can quickly add a ground circuit to your setup and make sure your wiring is safe. There are too many possible variables in your setup to give a specific solution; therefore, an electrician is the best way to get it done properly.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:02 PM   #40
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Iím glad to see your loss of power was discovered and fixed. However, I am concerned that you still havenít added a proper ground circuit to your wiring.

An electrician can quickly add a ground circuit to your setup and make sure your wiring is safe. There are too many possible variables in your setup to give a specific solution; therefore, an electrician is the best way to get it done properly.

What is wrong with his system and why?
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