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Old 12-26-2015, 03:54 PM   #1
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120 volt system not working

I moved my camper to another location and everything worked when i plug in my 30 amp plug. I left and came back a few days later and now the 120 volt system is not working. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:58 PM   #2
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Flip the breaker on the pole.

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Old 12-26-2015, 03:59 PM   #3
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Check the 30a breaker on the power pedestal.
Check the main breaker inside in the power center.
Check individual breakers in the power center.

I assume you can't operate your microwave and your TV
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:02 PM   #4
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Is the power source a known good 120v supply?


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Old 12-26-2015, 04:10 PM   #5
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I have checked the breakers, switches and fuses.. still nothing.. metered the power coming from the pole main breaker to the plug and its all good.. it worked monday when i plug in and 5 days later..nothing.. no ac, tv, refer or outlets..
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:15 PM   #6
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120 volt system not working

Is it a 30 amp plug?
Is it 240 v?

How did you measure the outlet?



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Old 12-26-2015, 04:18 PM   #7
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its a 30 amp and i measured the current with a volt meter... when i meter the inside panel i get nothing and its a 120 volt
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:23 PM   #8
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How many lugs have 120 v?
One lug is ground
One lug is neutral
One is hot

Which lugs did you measure to check power?

My point is are you plugging into a 240v 30 amp outlet or a 120v 30 amp outlet?


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Old 12-26-2015, 04:31 PM   #9
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I wired the 30 amp breaker to the pole myself... its a single pole 30 amp breaker so it only gets 120.. one thing about the box at the pole is that is doesnt have a neutral. i had to wire both ground and neutral together.. does that matter?
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:47 PM   #10
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Just a thought. My point is, Could a GFI be the cause?

I have plugged in a light to an outside outlet on the TT, that worked in the home but did not work on the TT at a CG. I unplugged it. When I went into the TT, I found that the everything was off power and the fridge was running on gas.

I had to go to the pedestal and reset the breakers. Still no joy.

I went back inside the TT and reset the GFI at the bathroom and the power was back. I did have to click over the fridge back to power.

I plugged light back in again. The same situation. I don't use that light anymore.

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Old 12-26-2015, 05:05 PM   #11
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im not sure were my GFI reset button is located but will look for it when i get there tonight...
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:22 PM   #12
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Never wire a neutral(white wire) to a ground wire. Very dangerous. Wire the ground wire to the electrical box.


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Old 12-26-2015, 08:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scubanut View Post
Never wire a neutral(white wire) to a ground wire. Very dangerous. Wire the ground wire to the electrical box.


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What's the difference when they both land on the same neutral/ground bar in the breaker panel? Just asking?
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:51 PM   #14
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What's the difference when they both land on the same neutral/ground bar in the breaker panel? Just asking?

Maybe I'm not understanding what you did! I just know that the white wire goes on the neutral bus bar in the circuit breaker panel. And at the other end on your outlet box the white wire will go onto the silver screw in the receptacle. The black wire goes onto the circuit breaker in the main panel and on the gold colored screw on the outlet box. The ground wire which is normally copper with no plastic covering is put onto the grounding bus bar in the circuit breaker panel and on the outlet side it would attach to the box and a short wire from the outlet to the ground point on the box using a pigtail connection. If you attach that copper wire to the neutral bus bar it defeats the grounding safety and it may cause your trailer to be live and could be fatal if the right conditions occur.
I'm not an electrician but have wired up many things.


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Old 12-26-2015, 09:40 PM   #15
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My main box at the pole does not have a neutral line that comes from the meter. I only have two main lines from the meter that goes to the main breaker. I can hook the ground to the box which is connect to ground down the pole in the ground and connect the white to the ground bus bar but they will still be connect in a way. White will not go back to the transformer...
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:44 PM   #16
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What's the difference when they both land on the same neutral/ground bar in the breaker panel? Just asking?
The neutral and ground should only be bonded in the main panel or sub-panel. This is done to ensure the correct operation of any breakers should there be a short between the hot and ground on the circuits they protect. Without the bond the breakers would only protect for a short between the hot and neutral. You should never bond the neutral at the outlet or an auxiliary panel (which is what this sounds like to me without more detail).

You said you can get voltage at the inlet to the trailer but no voltage at the converter?

Do you have any type of power protection between the inlet and converter? It might be detecting a power fault and not allowing the trailer to power up.

Have you verified that the outlet is wired correctly such that the hot is going all of the way through to the correct lug on the converter? This could result in a reading of zero volts although the inlet shows voltage if you are reading the neutral and ground instead of hot and neutral on the converter.
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:53 PM   #17
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If you have a transfer switch for a generator or inside of a built-in inverter you could be loosing the circuit there. An input/output test will tell you.
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:56 PM   #18
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:02 PM   #19
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no generator and no switches... this all worked monday when I first hooked everything up and now nothing... im going to look for a GF protection when I get back to camp later tonight. I had seen the picture before but like i said I do not have a neutral wire coming from the meter.. only two power wires.
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:09 PM   #20
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Do you have a surge guard. Some of them have protection in them that shut the power down if there are issues and depending on what the issue is may have to be manually reset.
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