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Old 04-08-2013, 01:30 PM   #1
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12V not working...viewable fuses all good

We had 12V lights etc. working until we plugged into 110/120..after about 30 minutes, everything went out that you normally could use on 12v only. we have looked at fuses. We have a 2001 Forest River Cardinal 5th wheel with 2 slides. Got any ideas what to check next? We just bought it used, previous owner had no issues with it.
Is there a hidden reset or hidden fuse someplace?
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:37 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by webemimipop View Post
We had 12V lights etc. working until we plugged into 110/120..after about 30 minutes, everything went out that you normally could use on 12v only. we have looked at fuses. We have a 2001 Forest River Cardinal 5th wheel with 2 slides. Got any ideas what to check next? We just bought it used, previous owner had no issues with it.
Is there a hidden reset or hidden fuse someplace?
Look by your battery as there may be a resetable curcuit breaker such as this one.
There may even be one up in the pin box junction box.


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If you don't have a digital volt/ohm meter now would be the time to invest in one for your camper.
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:58 PM   #3
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I failed to mention that there are also solar panels and a Freedom inverter/converter system. It is charging, the panel shows full battery charge. We could even run a vacuum cleaner and the microwave (didn't try at the same time) without the trailer being plugged in.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:15 PM   #4
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I failed to mention that there are also solar panels and a Freedom inverter/converter system. It is charging, the panel shows full battery charge. We could even run a vacuum cleaner and the microwave (didn't try at the same time) without the trailer being plugged in.
Have you looked for the breaker yet?
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webemimipop View Post
We had 12V lights etc. working until we plugged into 110/120..after about 30 minutes, everything went out that you normally could use on 12v only. we have looked at fuses. We have a 2001 Forest River Cardinal 5th wheel with 2 slides. Got any ideas what to check next? We just bought it used, previous owner had no issues with it.
Is there a hidden reset or hidden fuse someplace?
Is anything that runs off 110/120 working?

I know this is may sound dumb, but what did you exactly plug into? We have had instances of where other members plugged into something wired wrong, and it took a little bit before their trailer quit working......and their converter fried.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:42 PM   #6
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yes..The TV, microwave, ceiling fan, and plug outlets.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:44 PM   #7
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I did look for the resetable circuit breaker and didn't see one. I noted in another reply that there is a inverter/converter near the batteries.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:49 PM   #8
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It's possible that you have the same problem that I had on my new XLR 35-12--mis-routed DC wire(s) shorting out. Here's the description that I posted several months ago:

XLR35-12 DC power failure
I wanted to update folks with an issue I encountered on my 1 month old XLR 35-12. After about 1,000 miles on the new RV, we lost all DC power while camping. Of course, the slides were out at the time. We were in Cheyenne WY with the nearest FR dealer 60 miles away.

We had no DC power period. No battery, no converter power, nada. With no DC, we lost many systems including slide operation, hot water, DC lighting, stabilizer, struts to name a few. I tried to get someone to come fix it on site with no luck so I had to learn how to bring in my 3 slides manually. That was a steep learning curve with one hydraulic slide, one electric, and one Schwintek but I did it.

I troubleshot everything I could with my voltmeter (I'm pretty handy) to no avail. I finally decided the converter was bad but it bench tested good outside the RV. When installed, the converter showed an overload condition.

I hauled the RV to the nearest FR dealer for warranty repair. The dealer in Evans CO was super! His tech worked on the trailer for 6 hours troubleshooting before he found the problem. Some "genius" on the FR line routed critical DC wires between the DC bus and the fuse panel poorly. These wires (2-3 of them) were routed between the RV skin and the frame structure. After 1,000 miles of bumps, the wires chaffed and grounded to the frame, killing my DC.

I'm posting this to help others who may find similar problems. I pick up my repaired RV tomorrow after only 1 day in the shop. Many thanks to Great Outdoors RV in Evans CO!
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:50 PM   #9
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Is your battery dead?
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:58 PM   #10
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no..there are actually 4 batteries in it but they are not dead.
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:14 PM   #11
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If you're plugged into shorepower, the converter should be putting out at least 13.5V DC. If the batteries are fully charged, they should read about 12.7V DC. Can you check across the batteries and see what voltage you have?

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Old 04-08-2013, 09:02 PM   #12
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If you're plugged into shorepower, the converter should be putting out at least 13.5V DC. If the batteries are fully charged, they should read about 12.7V DC. Can you check across the batteries and see what voltage you have?

Dave
I do not have a volt meter but the panel says that the batteries are fully charged and we can run 110 appliances off of the batteries. ...not plugged into shore power.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:24 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by webemimipop View Post
I do not have a volt meter but the panel says that the batteries are fully charged and we can run 110 appliances off of the batteries. ...not plugged into shore power.
I was confused as in your first post you said you had 12V lighting until you plugged into shorepower for 30 minutes.

If you're not plugged into shorepower, have 120V from your invertor/batteries but no 12V power for lighting, it has to be a blown in-line fuse or tripped in line circuit breaker between the batteries and the DC side of the power center.

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Old 04-09-2013, 12:01 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Dave_Monica View Post

I was confused as in your first post he said you had 12V lighting until you plugged into shorepower for 30 minutes.

If you're not plugged into shorepower, have 120V from your invertor/batteries but no 12V power for lighting, it has to be a blown in-line fuse or tripped in line circuit breaker between the batteries and the DC side of the power center.

Dave
We don't disagree...just can't find it. Is there a hidden fuse or circuit breaker somewhere?????
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:31 AM   #15
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I do not have a volt meter but the panel says that the batteries are fully charged

as we can see
it is probably time to buy a volt meter

way more reliable than the panel gages

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Old 04-09-2013, 06:34 AM   #16
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as we can see
it is probably time to buy a volt meter

way more reliable than the panel gages

Mountainmanbob
Yep mentioned this very first post.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:35 PM   #17
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Just checked the trailer....no batteries now either...dead..
Everything seems strange in that it all worked until 30 minutes after it was plugged in...then 12v stuff quit and now nothing works.
Time to take it in to be serviced...crud!
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:43 PM   #18
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Strange...very strange
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:54 AM   #19
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Maybe not, somewhere between the coach battery and the power center, there is a required current interrupter. This prevents the battery from becoming a huge fireball if a major elec. fault ocurred. It can be a manual or auto reset circuit breaker or fuse. Its supposed to be near the battery. Here's the tough part, did the converter cause the fault? Its paralled to the same bsttery to power center. Your description says it did. Key this now is are the batteries dead or circuit open? Get a meter or at least a glow light per Turbs and others.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:29 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Just checked the trailer....no batteries now either...dead..
Everything seems strange in that it all worked until 30 minutes after it was plugged in...then 12v stuff quit and now nothing works.
Time to take it in to be serviced...crud!
webemimipop, are you at a campground or at home where you are plugging into 110/120 volt?

If at home, what exactly did you plug your RV into?

As I stated in post #5, we have had other members plug their RV into a wrongly wired 110/120 volt outlet (it was actually wired for 220/240) and there was a delayed effect in their converter frying.

Like you said, it was strange......so I would definitely look at what you were plugged into.
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