12v system fried

[Scubaanddreams]

I have a 2006 work and play m-24lk

Everything worked. We then plugged the rv into the back of the truck and it sounded lile a short happened. At that point some 12v systems inside stopped working and the gas alarm went off.

We disconnected from truck back on battery. Battery has 12v. Cables to first external junction have 12v - no power inside. Pulled converter panel all fuses look ok.

Can a fried converter / electrical panel lead to no 12v from battery? Rv was never plugged into shore power while any of this happened ... nor have I plugged it into shore since I owned it.

[Falconer]

Don't know that model but generally there will be a "master" fuse, fusible link, or circuit breaker upstream from the converter, often near the battery somewhere. Trace the wires to the next point and go from there... In my experience, it's uncommon to not have something to protect the converter somewhere.
But I've been wrong before... LOL
Good luck!
Charlie

[flyflotrtim]

Yes, what falconer said. Look for a fuse or circuit breaker just downstream from the battery. Hopefully it protected the converter. After you find the problem with the trailer better use a voltmeter to check out the wiring coming from the truck. If you are assured that the truck wiring to the plug is okay, next check out the plug from the trailer. May be something wrong at truck end or trailer end of the plug.

[dward51]

Check the DC fuse distribution block at the converter. You want to look at the reverse polarity fuses. If either the truck power at the 7-way outlet or the trailer are wired incorrectly (ie, reversed polarity), those fuses are supposed to pop to save the other 12v systems and the converter. Don't just look at them, use a meter to check them.

Also there should be a "Master" DC fuse near the battery. It will likely be a 12v auto-reset or similar "fuse" but it's really a breaker. Some of them will reset automatically, others have a small button on the side that you will need to push to reset them. They look like this either way, the auto reset type will not have the button. 2nd photo is one before they get crudded up with age and is the auto reset type with no button. If you have no power at the DC fuse block near the converter, take you meter and make sure you have power on both sides of the breakers that look like below. You may have 2 or 3 of these, one will be the "master" from the battery to the DC fuse panel, and the others go to high amperage devices (like slideouts, etc...)

[dward51]

As a follow up, here is an example of the "reverse polarity fuses". There are 2 of them, and in this unit they will be the two 40amp fuses (only 40amp ones in the photo). Yours may be a little different, but the reverse polarity fuses are usually separated from the line of branch fuses just like in this photo.

[kcmusa]

On my old TT the resettable fuse was under the front of the RV. Just follow the pos wire.