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04-16-2020, 06:53 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 50
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2006 Palomino Puma 25RBSS Sevice Panel
Hi SAMe here and I purchased 2006 Palimino Puma 25RBSS and have questions.
Regarding service panel, I see five slots for five split pole breakers {service dissconnect }. The top 3 have split pole breakers
1} First of all I dont see the main lead in lug where the incoming 120 wire should connect and feed the main bus bar, what I do see is
2} I do see on top a split breaker{ 30 and 20 };
-------->IN? 30...MAIN
------- <out? 20....AC ?
--------<out 15.....?
--------<out 15.....?
---------<out 15.....?
---------<out 15......?
---empty slot ready for breaker
---empty slot ready for breaker
The plastic cover laying on floor states the following list, from top to bottom, however, the last two slots have no breakers i.empty slots and the plastic in cover for them has never been broke out. Probably for more advance model that has a generator.
MAIN....Ok so that I suppose is the 30 IN>coming to main 30..seems weird compared to house panel main above or below feed bus bar
AC...I suppose is the AC { air conditioner in ceiling }
MIC...I suppose is the microwave
Converter{ hand-written in}....feeds to converter
GFI.....empty slot_____
GEN.....empty slot_____
Person who sold me camper showed me that AC, lights and slide out do work. He did not show me which breaker is the hot water heater.
I cant tell from above layout which breaker is the hot water heater and there is no water anywhere in system yet.
I also want run slide-out, out, however, I dont want to have the hot water tank on when doing so.
So I need to know which breaker is for what specifically. Ive called the past owner, but they have not returned my calls.
I also did search and found 2012 forum post with photo from outside of hotwater propane/electric and saw that my electric{ ? } switch is off, not on.
The prior owners were really nice and said everything works. I just missed the little detail of which breakers are which circuits specifically.
3rd question. Can I use and adapter to go from my campers 30 amp male to 110volt{ regular house receptacle } on 30ft 12 gauge wire so as to run my slide-out, out this one time?
I plan to eventually get a 30amp receptacle in place to plug into, just not there yet.
Thanks for any familiar with my service panel and questions.
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04-16-2020, 07:00 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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Slide out should be 12 volt with a fuse.
__________________
2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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04-16-2020, 07:56 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A32Deuce
Slide out should be 12 volt with a fuse.
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Ok thanks A32 Deuce. Seems like not enough power to move that 14' wide slider.
That is good to know it is not directly a 110v feed, however, I still need to know which breaker to turn on to feed that 12volt system and not the hot water heater.
Based on what presented in post #1, I suppose the 110v, 15 amp feed to converter is number 4 below.
1}---->IN ? 30...MAIN
2}---<out ? 20....AC ?
3}-----<out 15..? MICrowave?
4}-----<out 15.....? converter{ hand written in on panel cover }
5}---------<out 15.....? hot water heater?
6}---------<out 15......? hot water heater?
7}--empty slot ..not used
8} empty slot...not used
9} empty slot...not used
10} empty slot...not used
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04-16-2020, 08:06 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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It is more like 13 plus volts in a battery. Some units say to have shore power hooked up to give added boost from the converter on big slides. That's is what I was told.
__________________
2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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04-16-2020, 08:31 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 50
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I guess "shore power" means 110v. Maybe the prior owner will call back.
It is unfortunate the service panel is not clearly marked or at least not all breakers are marked. There is no 'hot water' listed on the service panel cover or elsewhere.
I guess I'm safe to just turn on what appears to be 'converter' breaker. I tried to trace line from that 15 amp fee but it runs behind panel and converter, as most of wires from panel do, so difficult to say where exactly they run too.
I also have a sewer question so need to find appropriate forum thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by A32Deuce
It is more like 13 plus volts in a battery. Some units say to have shore power hooked up to give added boost from the converter on big slides. That's is what I was told.
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04-16-2020, 08:34 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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Make sure you have water in the water heater before flipping circuit breakers or you will need to replace the elec. element.
__________________
2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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04-16-2020, 08:58 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 50
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I agree and completely aware of burning my anode issue, because of no water. That is partly why Ive presented all the info in post #1 that I know.
Hoping there is others out there with a Palimino Puma 2006 or so that is on this forum and haves some idea of what it is I'm dealing with here.
Not likely, but I try. Thanks again Adeuce 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by A32Deuce
Make sure you have water in the water heater before flipping circuit breakers or you will need to replace the elec. element.
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04-16-2020, 09:36 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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Most of the time it seams,like they either just use letters or don't mark the circuit breakers. Very hard to figure out. That's not model or builder case. It can be any of them.
__________________
2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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04-16-2020, 10:13 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 50
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I understand. Ive research campers over last few years, in case I came into some money. What I read was the most of them do not come with a Manual-of-Operation or wiring diagrams for whole camper.
My last choice as the GulfStream.....I forget the model name. Anyway I go to sign off for awhile. Bye
Quote:
Originally Posted by A32Deuce
Most of the time it seams,like they either just use letters or don't mark the circuit breakers. Very hard to figure out. That's not model or builder case. It can be any of them.
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04-17-2020, 02:06 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,458
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Adapter
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAMe
3rd question. Can I use and adapter to go from my campers 30 amp male to 110volt{ regular house receptacle } on 30ft 12 gauge wire so as to run my slide-out, out this one time?
I plan to eventually get a 30amp receptacle in place to plug into, just not there yet.
Thanks for any familiar with my service panel and questions.
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This is what you need to keep the battery charged and run lights. It will run the air conditioner if you don't use much else.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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04-17-2020, 02:16 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,458
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120v feed
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAMe
1} First of all I dont see the main lead in lug where the incoming 120 wire should connect and feed the main bus bar, what I do see is
2} I do see on top a split breaker{ 30 and 20 };
-------->IN? 30...MAIN
------- <out? 20....AC ?
--------<out 15.....?
--------<out 15.....?
---------<out 15.....?
---------<out 15......?
---empty slot ready for breaker
---empty slot ready for breaker
MAIN....Ok so that I suppose is the 30 IN>coming to main 30..seems weird compared to house panel main above or below feed bus bar
AC...I suppose is the AC { air conditioner in ceiling }
MIC...I suppose is the microwave
Converter{ hand-written in}....feeds to converter
GFI.....empty slot_____
GEN.....empty slot_____
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Yes, as you guessed, the 30 amp breaker is what feeds the rest. Current through it flows into the bus. Current flows out from the bus through all the other breakers. It is not the same as a residential panel.
By the way, here are some clues for you: - AC is the air conditioner
- MIC is the microwave oven
- Converter produces 12v DC for lighting, furnace, fans, water heater (propane operation), refrigerator (propane operation), and battery charging.
- GFI itself is an outlet, usually in the lavatory (bathroom). It also protects the downstream outlets by the kitchen sink and on the exterior. If any of these three get damp, the GFCI in the lavatory will trip.
- GEN is "general." It includes all the rest of the outlets and maybe some 120v lighting if any is installed.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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04-17-2020, 02:25 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,458
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Nope, just a standard cover
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAMe
The plastic cover laying on floor states the following list, from top to bottom, however, the last two slots have no breakers i.empty slots and the plastic in cover for them has never been broke out. Probably for more advance model that has a generator.
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Nope. It's just a standard RV box used in smaller and larger RVs. When it's installed in smaller RVs, fewer breakers are installed. Since you can only get 30 amps into the trailer, you can't really have more than three or four circuits. The AC and microwave nearly max it out. AC, microwave, and water heater would be cutting it really fine.
You stated you thought the water heater was one with both electrical and propane options. That's possible, but you may choose to run it on propane, especially if you have an electric space heater or electric coffee pot or hair dryer. People forget how much current electrical heating devices use. They all seem to be 1440 or 1500 watts each, and that's nearly 15 amps.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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04-17-2020, 02:39 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 294
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The breakers you have control the 110 VAC circuits. Your slide(s), lights, water heater and reefer controls are all 12VDC. Those circuits are protected by fuses, just like in your truck.
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04-17-2020, 03:06 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 60
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Are you sure your WH has an electric element in it? Many are propane only.
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04-17-2020, 08:08 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 50
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Thanks Larry, I see it have see shorter ones i.e. no cable length.
So yes I can probably do that to get the slide out this one time.
I'm concerned about burning out the 'anode' heating element in the water heater. Yes mine is propane and/or electric.
However I'm still not sure which breaker the electric part of my water heat is on.
I understand the propane uses electric lighter, but it is the other electric {110v ] that I'm concerned about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC
This is what you need to keep the battery charged and run lights. It will run the air conditioner if you don't use much else.
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04-17-2020, 08:27 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 294
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If you have the switch outside on the waterheater, just make sure it is in the off position. If the marking are gone from that switch, unhook the trailer or trip the main breaker, unhook the wire from one side of the switch and power everything up. Just be careful that the wire you unhook does not touch anything while you have 120 VAC hooked up. Sent PM to you.
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04-17-2020, 10:44 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Longueuil QC Canada
Posts: 224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAMe
Thanks Larry, I see it have see shorter ones i.e. no cable length.
So yes I can probably do that to get the slide out this one time.
I'm concerned about burning out the 'anode' heating element in the water heater. Yes mine is propane and/or electric.
However I'm still not sure which breaker the electric part of my water heat is on.
I understand the propane uses electric lighter, but it is the other electric {110v ] that I'm concerned about.
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The «Anode» and the «Heating element» are two different things.
The anode is a sacrificial rod of magnesium or aluminium that protect the inside of water heather tank from corroding. It also is the draining plug of thesaid tank.
__________________
2012 Lexington 265DS
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04-17-2020, 11:16 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Longueuil QC Canada
Posts: 224
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Which is which ?
My proposition of how to!
Get a helper, a tester-plug or a multimeter and patience.
Turn all breakers at OFF
Then...
Flip main breaker in ON position,
Start with breaker #1
Flip it ON
Check, identify and note what is powered from it.
Flip it OFF
Go to breaker #2
Flip it ON
Check, identify and note what is powered from it.
Flip it OFF
Do the same for all the breakers
Make the list and identify your panel properly in such a manner that suit you.
Keep a record of your list in a safe place.
Remember:
Mostly all lights are 12vdc
Controls of Water Heater, Refrigerator. ACond, Info panel are 12vdc
Water pump is 12vdc
Converter is fed by 120 vAC to provide 12vdc
Slide are generally connected directly at the «house» battery
If you intend to get a 30 amps plug installed, ask the electrician if he knows what is a 30 amps plug for RVs and if he is getting resposible for any bad occurances.
If the distance from the main panel in your S/B house to your RV pad, think about having a 50 amps plug installed; you nerver know what future is made of.
Enjoy your RV.
__________________
2012 Lexington 265DS
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04-18-2020, 06:14 AM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 50
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yeah that is a possibility to use propane, just concerned about always running to store. Guess I could have a 3rd tank always around to replace of the two on front of camper.
So I have INcoming 30amp on split pole with the 20 { AC }, then five circuits:
15 { converter i.e 12v system} and 15 { ? }
15 { ? } and 15 { ? }
15 { ? } and 15 { ? }
and one of those 15's is probably just the water heater. I guess I will just have to put water into the system and and hit each breaker and then go listen for it make that hissing noise.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC
You stated you thought the water heater was one with both electrical and propane options. That's possible, but you may choose to run it on propane, especially if you have an electric space heater or electric coffee pot or hair dryer. People forget how much current electrical heating devices use. They all seem to be 1440 or 1500 watts each, and that's nearly 15 amps.
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04-18-2020, 06:26 AM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 50
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AFDON, the 12v aspect of water heater is just to igniter fro propane, or so I believe.
As for the switch outside, I did see that photo in a 2012 post I found in my first search here at forum.
I found that switch and I saw what position it was in, but I forget now, as Ive been so tired and overworked.
So if I have that outside switch in OFF position, you believe that even if breaker for AC hot water is on, there will be know power to it.
That would save me having to fill system with water. But that question may be moot for me now, as if the first 15amp breaker is the CONVERTER and I can run slide out that is my next step after a few other miscellaneous things I'm doing.
So make sure that outside switch is OFF. OK That is good tip
AFD] If you have the switch outside on the waterheater, just make sure it is in the off position. If the marking are gone from that switch, unhook the trailer or trip the main breaker, unhook the wire from one side of the switch and power everything up. Just be careful that the wire you unhook does not touch anything while you have 120 VAC hooked up. Sent PM to you
Quote:
Originally Posted by AFDON
The breakers you have control the 110 VAC circuits. Your slide(s), lights, water heater and reefer controls are all 12VDC. Those circuits are protected by fuses, just like in your truck.
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