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Old 10-13-2012, 06:35 AM   #1
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30 Amp Breaker in Garage - for TT

.
I'm wanting to run the 110v "things" that my TT has by using an outlet in my garage and an extension cord. I've searched for info and come up with this : The 30-amp 120-volt 2 pole 3 wir

what I'm getting from the above reference is that the 20 amp breaker in the main distribution box can be replaced with a 30 amp breaker &

then the "normal" 110v outlet would then be replaced with an "RV 30 amp" one &

then for the 100' run I would need a #8 gauge extension cord

is this thinking correct ? (and if so, would anyone here like to come over and do those mods for me ?). thank you.....Bill

p.s.: almost forgot - there are 4 normal outlets on the 20 amp breaker that I'm thinking about changing to a 30 amp - am I correct in thinking that nothing about them would change, other than "capability" ?
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:54 AM   #2
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Other than you won't be able to use them and they would need to be bypassed.
They are only rated for 15 amps (most likely as the 20 amp duplexes look like the photo)

ALL the wire in the circuit would need to be replaced with 30 amp rated romex house wire as well.

WAY better to leave the 20 amp breaker in the panel and wire the 30 amp rated (but now 20 amp limited) RV outlet with the existing wire.
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:05 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
..WAY better to leave the 20 amp breaker in the panel and wire the 30 amp rated (but now 20 amp limited) RV outlet with the existing wire.
(I think I understand all I thought I heard you say.....)

so, you're saying NOT to have the 20 amp breaker in the panel replaced - but it would be "OK" to replace the outlet on the wall with a 30 amp one, even tho it would be limited to 20 amps ?

if that's correct, wouldn't a simple adapter be the simple solution ? thanks.....Bill
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:02 AM   #4
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If you have room in your panel then please put in a new 30 amp breaker and run the correct size (or slightly larger) wire from the new breaker to the correct sized outlet. It is much simpler then trying to monkey with a circuit you already have. You will also have a significantly smaller chance of creating a fire hazard with the new circuit then you will trying to retrofit the old one.

There is a very simple rule when working with electricity.
Larger diameter wire = less resistance
Less resistance = less heat
Less heat = less chance of fire

Or to put it another way don't overload your wire or you will pay for it later.
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:55 AM   #5
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thanks all - no matter what I have done (IF I have anything done) it'll be done by a "real" electrician.....Bill
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whisky
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thanks all - no matter what I have done (IF I have anything done) it'll be done by a "real" electrician.....Bill
As we've found "real" electricians have messed up thousands of dollars of electronics not knowing an rv is 110v.


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Old 10-13-2012, 09:39 AM   #7
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question : roughly, what amp draw would a Dometic fridge have (26' Wildwood BH).....Bill
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whisky
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question : roughly, what amp draw would a Dometic fridge have (26' Wildwood BH).....Bill
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...aws-17300.html
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whisky View Post
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question : roughly, what amp draw would a Dometic fridge have (26' Wildwood BH).....Bill


Edit: Turbs got it
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:40 AM   #10
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20 amps is plenty for most users. Just watch what you plug in to your other outlets.
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:54 PM   #11
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Why are you running a #8 wire? A #10 will handle 30 amps perfectly well.
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:05 AM   #12
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What herk and carl said is correct. If you have a licensed electrician do it he should know what to do according to code. I recomend a 50amp incase you ever upgrade and use a 50-30 adapter. Also a 50 amp is 220 and so a normal electrician should not screw it up as many 3 prong 30 amp services are with being 220 instead of the 110 that rvs require.

Also if it were me on a 100' run I would step up to #8 that way you know it can handle the drawl if needed.
Ps. 30 amp is 3600 watt on the hot leg and 50 amps are 6000 watt per leg x2. I try you use 50 amp service with a 50-30 adapter just for that reason when I can, will put less strain on the system if I am pulling a lot of juice( microwave, and a/c and tv and converter at same time).
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:40 AM   #13
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Just remember to check your main service for current availability.

While most have upgraded or have 200 amp service; there are still a few places with 100 amp services out there. Make sure you do not trade a line trip problem for a main trip problem.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:48 AM   #14
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After buying our trailer and bringing it home i used a regular 100' cord plugged into the garage to keep the trailer "alive". I always wanted to run an underground wire with a proper dedicated 30 amp circuit so we could run the AC etc. It was always annoying to have to pull the cord back along the driveway when i cut the grass. So a couple weeks ago i finally got around to doing this long overdue project. I dug a trench from the house near the electrical panel to the trailer. I used 12/2 wire (approx. 100') slipped thru a 1/2' poly pipe (it was way cheaper than direct burial wire) but was a b#t%h to pull thru. I used a new and designated 30 amp breaker at the panel. At the trailer i used a pressure treated 4x4 post secured with concrete. I used a weatherproof RV outlet with a door/cover that protects the plug even when the trailer is plugged in. While i had the trench dug i also ran a water line and cable from the house to the post, all in separate 1/2' poly pipes. I can now use the house satelite dish for the trailer. I just stubbed the waterline about a foot above the ground at a water outlet at the house and use a stainless steel washing machine hose to connect the outlet to the poly/valve.
Its now nice to have a totally independant trailer! No more tripping over cords! I can run everything inside the trailer properly. It was a lot of work but soooo nice now!!!
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:07 AM   #15
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Obviously you cannot go back but a 12/2 at 120v and 30 amps gives you about 138 feet before you are starting to overload the wire. You also should expect about a 10% drop in voltage over your run so if your voltage to the house is slightly low so you may have issues with some of your appliances if you decide to occupy your unit.

For those planning to do this.
1. Run a slightly larger gauge than required by code so you get less voltage drop and are better able to handle any large loads.
2. Use a cable/wire lube (camel snot) on your wire so it pulls through the conduit easily.
3. bury the cable to the depth required by code because if someone digs into it and gets electrocuted it is your fault if the wire is not buried correctly.
4. I know code allows for outdoor cable to be buried while not in conduit but do yourself and others the favor of using conduit (like Wildwood did) so that the wires are better protected.
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildwood1 View Post
I always wanted to run an underground wire with a proper dedicated 30 amp circuit so we could run the AC etc. I used 12/2 wire (approx. 100') slipped thru a 1/2' poly pipe (it was way cheaper than direct burial wire) but was a b#t%h to pull thru. I used a new and designated 30 amp breaker at the panel.
I can run everything inside the trailer properly.
Just making sure that it wasn't a typo. You are running 30 amps on 12/2 wire?
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:12 AM   #17
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Kevin,

I hope you made an error in your post about driving that 100 foot run of 12/2 with a 30 amp breaker. This is very dangerous, IMO, since there is a very good chance of fire and it will most likely occur inside your breaker panel where the current and resistance is highest (at the breaker black wire connection itself).

If you did not make a mistake and actually have a 30 amp breaker there, you should immediately replace it with a 20 amp breaker for safety. For 30 amps, that absolute minimum gauge should have been 10/2 and for a 100 foot run 8/2 to minimize voltage loss in the run.
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:34 AM   #18
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Kevin, if it was not a typo, you need to listen to Lou in his previous post. Most will even say you need #6 wire for 100 foot to minimize voltage drop.

Here is a link to a few wire size calculators, where you input the amperage and wire length.

Wire Size Calculator

http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.htm

Here is another link that has all kind of informative info on wiring and outlet installation for travel trailers. We link to this website all the time. Make sure to click on the "30 Amp Service" link on the left-hand side of the page and scroll down to the middle to see wire size recommendations.

RV Electric
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:38 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769
Kevin,

I hope you made an error in your post about driving that 100 foot run of 12/2 with a 30 amp breaker. This is very dangerous, IMO, since there is a very good chance of fire and it will most likely occur inside your breaker panel where the current and resistance is highest (at the breaker black wire connection itself).

If you did not make a mistake and actually have a 30 amp breaker there, you should immediately replace it with a 20 amp breaker for safety. For 30 amps, that absolute minimum gauge should have been 10/2 and for a 100 foot run 8/2 to minimize voltage loss in the run.
X2 or 3
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:17 PM   #20
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I ran the trailer on a 14/2 100' extension cord for 3 years and funny thing the house is still standing! I dont plan on using the trailer outlets to weld.
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