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Old 03-31-2015, 08:17 PM   #1
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30 amp breaker trips when air conditioner and refrigerator cycle at same time

I have a 2014 Forest River DS3010 (Class C). The fridge is a stainless steel double door model with typical fridge/ freezer combo. As an electrician, I realize that both draw high amps when each compressor is on.

My question is: Other than living with the freezer using gas only or not running ac, is there anything I can do and am I missing something?
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:21 PM   #2
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You have a gas/ electric fridge not a residential?
If so your gas/ electric fridge doesn't have a compressor.
Even so the fridge only draws 5-8 amps max.

You a/c may draw 20 amps or so to start but runs in the neighborhood of 16

Is this a 50 amp rig or 30?

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Old 03-31-2015, 08:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jth8696 View Post
I have a 2014 Forest River DS3010 (Class C). The fridge is a stainless steel double door model with typical fridge/ freezer combo. As an electrician, I realize that both draw high amps when each compressor is on.

My question is: Other than living with the freezer using gas only or not running ac, is there anything I can do and am I missing something?
How do you run your hot water heater? Gas or electric? The electric draws 12 + amps and the AC also draws 12+ amps. If you run the hot water heater on gas it will leave you with plenty of power for the AC and fridge.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:27 PM   #4
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Since I don't know thank you for prompt response. But the electric side still has a compressor does it not. My unit can run electric (shore power or generator) just like a residential. Or switch over to gas if I choose. So going to the link you provided with 14 to 16 amp draw for ac and 8 amp draw for fridge I should not be tripping the breaker. Any suggestions...
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:29 PM   #5
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No the electric side is not a compressor.
It's actually a heating element.

So true you should not be popping a breaker.


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Old 03-31-2015, 08:31 PM   #6
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"elind", Thank you, that make sense since I was trying to run everything on electric. I honestly don't know about the water heater. One of those questions that I missed during the buyout class on unit. I will have to research the water heater.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:33 PM   #7
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As a thought for all who look at this thread. Would it not make sense to have a unit that can handle all power requirements electrically since it does have a generator and appears to be totally self sufficient. This might lead back to a quality issue.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:33 PM   #8
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Keep in mind as long as your plugged in or using the gennie your converter is always drawing amps as well
1-8 amps depending on the 12v load in your camper and battery status.

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Old 03-31-2015, 08:36 PM   #9
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if your camper is 30 amp service then no you can't run everything and be fine.
Now if you have 50 amp service you'd be better off.

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Old 03-31-2015, 08:40 PM   #10
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As Turbs said, if you have a refrigerator that will run on propane or elec, there is no compressor. You might also have a weak 30A breaker. FR does not furnish the best quality breakers. Just unplug from shore power, remove the breaker and take it to Lowes/HD and get a brand name replacement.

We've only tripped the breaker one time when TOWTA had the mw going, toaster oven, coffee pot perking and the ac kicked on and shut everything down. Shut the mw off and everything was good. I had removed all the breakers previously and bought brand name replacements @ Lowes when the trailer was new. The original breakers went in the blue box with wheels.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:42 PM   #11
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OldCoot, thank you, that was my next step...wanted to confirm my decision through my FROG family first.
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Old 03-31-2015, 09:37 PM   #12
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Nostalgia. I bought my first house in the 80's and it was built in '52. It had 60 amps in tube fuses (and someone added 40 amps in breakers). No central AC, so in the summer, I'd have 2 window AC's which I'd have to run intermittently so not to blow the fuses. 2nd house came with 200 amp panel. Upgraded to 300 so I could finally have enough juice to run central ac, camper, and enough toys to make a man cave happy. So, going back to trying to squeeze life in 30 amps...
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:56 PM   #13
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Given that you are an electrician, why don't you hang your ammeter on the ac feeder to the power panel and measure.
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:10 PM   #14
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30 amp breaker trips when air conditioner and refrigerator cycle at same time

It first happened while on Gen Power...

I assumed it was to much load so switched the firdge switch to gas...

Also noting that the issue most likely is a combination of amp draw from fridge, ac, and water heater (possibility of weak components also).

I would have to sit with a clamp on amp meter until it tripped the circuit. With all that said, I could also sit and monitor the shore power cable as each device cycled. Call me lazy, or call me economical...I came here looking for easy quick answers and advice from friends such as yourself.
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:26 PM   #15
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try a hard start capacitor on your ac
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Old 04-08-2015, 06:39 PM   #16
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I had a 99 Sunnybrook for 14 years and was always able to run the air, hot water heater and gas/electric fridge on electric mode on 30 Amps without any problems.


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