30 amp home connection

[Battchief]

When we were wiring boat slips for shore power we found that wiring charts provided wire ga recommendations based on acceptable voltage drop. 3% and 10%. If the voltage at the panel was 120 or higher then we had to calculate the maximum amperage and length of run, figuring in what voltage would be after 3 or 10 % drop. If your panel voltage is already at 110, then you will have to use 6 ga wire for a 60-70’ run. This means will you are drawing the full 30amps, the voltage will drop 10% below what you are getting at the panel. What happens when voltage drops below 110 is compressors run hotter and last a shorter life. Here is the problem if you have a 60-70 ‘ run and can only handle a 3% drop. You have to use 2ga wire. You cannot connect 2ga wire directly to 30amp or 50amp outlet. It would require a subpanel box. Putting in a 50amp outlet gains you nothing unless you might upgrade to a bigger RV with 50 amp requirement. The way the 50amp to 30amp adapter works is it only uses one of the hot leads instead of both. The breaker for a 50amp RV outlet should be connected to a ganged 30 amp breaker, not ganged 50amp. The 10ga wire in 30amp RV cords cannot handle 50amps.


Battchief

[gbrown69]

done it myself with 10 gauge wire and 30 amp 120 v breaker...

works like a charm and very handy to use a/c in the rv while at home....

[Battchief]

Exactly!! Good advice.


Battchief

[Boomerweps]

Originally Posted by nrkmann

It is not just the run but the length of the cable from the panel to the outlet. Part of this run is underground so there seems to be a bit of up and down, as well as through the wall, up the mounting post and around a corner or two to be added to the 50' making perhaps 65' - 70' by the time you are done. Also most trailers have a 25' pig tail so the right size cable size to the outlet is even more important. My RV/EV box is 10" from the panel box but need 30" of cable. From the breaker out the panel, down the wall, through the wall, up the wall into the RV/EV box to connect.

There is a voltage drop calculator at www.calculator.net that you can plug in the wire gage, amperage pull (everything active), & wire length that will tell you the voltage drop. The above was my first thought, that 60’ likely didn’t allow for actual wire length, nor the camper’s power cable. 8ga minimum.
My optimal TT parking spot is a far distance, 125’ total including using a pigtail adapter in order to use the shortest cord to my TT. 12ga won’t run my AirCon. Unfortunately, years ago, I just ran 12ga out to my crappy 1930’s garage for basic lights and power hand tools. House breaker box is in the house on the far side from the garage with the TT on the garage far side. Was planning on running 8ga this last year, but wife wants to move to a single story ;( If I need to use the TT as a guest house or for short terms between camping, I park the TT close to the house and the wire run is under 50’. AC, Woo Hoo!

[Mike134]

People keep thinking they will load up the wire to it's maximum. It just doesn't happen!!

I can run my 13 amp a/c with no issues on 10ga wire 125' from the panel.

Voltage Drop Calculator

[SetauketJeff]

Attached Pics of outlet. Don't know how to rotate them.

[Boomerweps]

Just wanted to add, theory is great but measurements are better.
You can pick up a Kill-A-Watt plug in meter at Harbor Freight for ~$20-25. You have to use standard 15/20 amp plugs and receptacles and adapters but you can plug in or turn on each TT item and measure the wattage and amperage it pulls. You can also measure the unloaded voltage supplied and see it drop with each added electrical load.
As I’ve moved my TT around different parking places, I discovered significant voltage drop that I never considered before. When I parked the TT across the driveway I didn’t want to drive over the cable. So I plugged into the garage, same side I do now but TT further away. How far? 195’ of wire total! Starting voltage at TT inlet 112.5, house supply normally around 125! Just 12VDC converter/charger on. 109.7 with TT fridge on. Add Air Con 100.7. At night my garage large security light would slowly dim, go out, and later pop on like a motion sensor (it’s not). I was lucky nothing burnt out. My later purchased PI EMS won’t let that happen, around 107 it shuts down and won’t re-energize till near 109. Hard wired so it won’t let me force stupid.

[Boomerweps]

Originally Posted by Mike134

People keep thinking they will load up the wire to it's maximum. It just doesn't happen!!

I can run my 13 amp a/c with no issues on 10ga wire 125' from the panel.

Voltage Drop Calculator

But you’re likely not running the fridge on electric and the microwave with the Air Conditioning at the same time. That would put you on the edge.

[tugboat369]

I have a RV hook up at our house and just installed one today at our TN place the box was only $118 free shipping

Check your local code and have a licensed electrician install it.

[TWilder]

I really appreciate all the info from everyone. It gives me a good idea of what I need to do. Thanks so much for all your input

[HappyCamper1962]

Originally Posted by TWilder

Hi everyone. I am wanting to install a 30 amp connection for my rv at home and would like a little guidance. The distance from the breaker box in my garage to where the outdoor receptacle box will be placed will be approx. 50-60 feet, with about 6-8 feet of that being underground. I will be having a friend who is an uncertified electrician help with the connections. Would someone care to give me a list of items (Home Depot part numbers would be great!),and the specific gauge of wire and correct breaker that I would need. I just want to make sure I do this right and not burn something up! Thanks

I had a friend "who was an uncertified electrician" and he ended up installing the wrong kind of 30 amp outlet at my house for my camper and as soon as he turned on the breaker it blew my circuitry, killed my power the day before a long trip. Lesson learned, I only used a licensed electrician for anything more than what I do myself (ceiling fans, lighting, etc... the easy stuff)

[5picker]

Originally Posted by HappyCamper1962

I had a friend "who was an uncertified electrician" and he ended up installing the wrong kind of 30 amp outlet at my house for my camper and as soon as he turned on the breaker it blew my circuitry, killed my power the day before a long trip. Lesson learned, I only used a licensed electrician for anything more than what I do myself (ceiling fans, lighting, etc... the easy stuff)

Ironically, the 30a R/V outlet isn't anything magic or complicated. It's wired just like any normal household 15a duplex outlet. It simply has differently positioned slots and heavier wire and connects using one hot leg, one neutral and a ground.

[Mike134]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

But you’re likely not running the fridge on electric and the microwave with the Air Conditioning at the same time. That would put you on the edge.

Agreed and neither would the rest of us parked at our house unless the bride tossed us out and we are now living in the RV.

[jaudet71]

When I bought mine at Home Depot it was called a 30A RV Outlet. It says recreational vehicle use only and 125v
Store SKU #250467

[Bhrava]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

Just wanted to add, theory is great but measurements are better.
You can pick up a Kill-A-Watt plug in meter at Harbor Freight for ~$20-25. You have to use standard 15/20 amp plugs and receptacles and adapters but you can plug in or turn on each TT item and measure the wattage and amperage it pulls. You can also measure the unloaded voltage supplied and see it drop with each added electrical load.
As I’ve moved my TT around different parking places, I discovered significant voltage drop that I never considered before. When I parked the TT across the driveway I didn’t want to drive over the cable. So I plugged into the garage, same side I do now but TT further away. How far? 195’ of wire total! Starting voltage at TT inlet 112.5, house supply normally around 125! Just 12VDC converter/charger on. 109.7 with TT fridge on. Add Air Con 100.7. At night my garage large security light would slowly dim, go out, and later pop on like a motion sensor (it’s not). I was lucky nothing burnt out. My later purchased PI EMS won’t let that happen, around 107 it shuts down and won’t re-energize till near 109. Hard wired so it won’t let me force stupid.

Even better is to get a power Watch Dog. It measures volts, and current draw and uses bluetooth to a phone app. It can also log your power use. That is just a sub feature since it mainly is there to protect the RV from low or high voltage and bad neutral/ground. It's one of those good investment items that is used where ever you take the rig.

[tugboat369]

Here is the box installed at our TN place

[Wknd Camper]

got any pictures of your set up?

[nrkmann]

Originally Posted by Wknd Camper

got any pictures of your set up?

Image

[HappyCamper1962]

Ain't pretty but it works great. Had an electrician install it, easy access to the breaker and plenty of cord length from the outlet to my rig. I just use a simple yellow Camco surge protector, we have very stable electrical service, so it's a "just in case" thing. Not sure why the photo loaded sideways, sorry; but having shore power at home is so convenient, love it!