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Old 12-02-2021, 06:42 AM   #1
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50 amp RV cord same as 50amp Gen cord?

searched few pages, few sites. didn't find an answer.
Got a 5th wheel. would like to have a shore power set up so if i decided to spend night in it i have ac/heat, tv ect...
When i get the outlet installed on house, it be about 60 ft from connection on the rv. What i would like to know, as prices go from low to extreme. Is a gen cord same as a rv cord.
Ps. only thing i actually found was ya don't plug into a dryer box. lol
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Old 12-02-2021, 08:32 AM   #2
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The dryer caution is for 30 amp units as it is a 220v outlet that is similar to an RV 120v 30a

I don't think there is a standard "generator" cord. If it plugs in it should be ok, if you post details / link we can be sure
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Old 12-02-2021, 08:48 AM   #3
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All "gen cords" are not the same. All generators (and their connectors) are not the same.

I'm assuming you are wanting to use the "gen cord" as an extension for the outlet you are installing?
Most larger amperage generators have twistlock connections so the input end of the "gen cord" would not fit a standard 50a R/V outlet.

As mentioned, BE SURE whomever installs the R/V outlet on the side of your home knows how to wire it. A 30a R/V outlet is 3 prong, 120v. A 50a outlet is 4 prong, 240v. There are several wiring diagrams in the library section here for your reference.
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Old 12-02-2021, 09:29 AM   #4
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A word of advice when shopping 50 amp power cords and extensions. Always choose 6/3 wiring with ground. It is rated for 60 amps on both legs. You will come across some cheaper cords from china that are actually 8/3 wiring which is only rated for 46 amps per leg. Drawing huge loads on the 8/3 wire (multiple AC's, microwave, etc), you run the risk of overloading the neutral. 6/3 wiring gives you a safety cushion.

Just sayin'.
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Old 12-02-2021, 09:43 AM   #5
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50 amp rv cable is typically 6/3-8/1.
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Old 12-02-2021, 10:03 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by D W View Post
A word of advice when shopping 50 amp power cords and extensions. Always choose 6/3 wiring with ground. It is rated for 60 amps on both legs. You will come across some cheaper cords from china that are actually 8/3 wiring which is only rated for 46 amps per leg. Drawing huge loads on the 8/3 wire (multiple AC's, microwave, etc), you run the risk of overloading the neutral. 6/3 wiring gives you a safety cushion.

Just sayin'.
The neutral (common) will only carry the difference in the 2 hot legs so never over 50A and that would only be with 50A on one line and nothing on the other. If you had only a single 100w lite bulb on each line the neutral would have 0A on it.
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Old 12-02-2021, 06:36 PM   #7
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Thanks all for info an insight
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Old 12-03-2021, 07:48 AM   #8
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Be careful about using a generator for your 5'er. A contractor style generator will surge, while an inverter type will give a smoother voltage feed. Surging could cause damage to the sensitive electronics on board your rv. Also, when the fuel runs out (of either style generator) the generator tends to slow down then speed up, giving you a roller coaster type of voltage spikes and low voltage which also could cause damage. Go by the manufacturer's guidelines for run time.
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Old 12-03-2021, 09:00 AM   #9
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My two cents worth is to get a 50amp RV cord and install a 50amp RV service at home. A dog bone/adapter will be needed between your cord and the generator. I have used this setup for years with no problems.
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Old 12-03-2021, 12:56 PM   #10
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Beware of length. #6 is fine up to about 100'. Be sure of your OVERALL length FROM THE PANEL to the LOAD. Not from the outlet to the load. If your 50 Amp outlet has 50 feet of #6 wire connecting it to the panel, that counts! And in most installations, there's more wire between the outlet and the panel than you might expect. Measure...including distance down/up from the panel, and down/up in the wall cavity where the wire leads to the outlet.

If you're over 100' from the panel to the load, upgrade your extension cord to #4 AWG wire. This upgrade will effectively eliminate additional resistance in your extension cord.

Copper wire is wire (aluminum needs larger sizes to carry the same loads), but connectors are important. If I were you, I'd buy the appropriate gauge wire and then add Hubbell or similar grade connectors to either end. If you repurpose a generator wire, you'll no doubt need to change the connectors anyway, so it won't be any use for your generator.

Be sure your "generator" wire is, in fact, #6 or better. Many generator wires are only #10. And be sure the jacket is suited to LONG TERM outdoor exposure. I have a generator cord that's fine for the short term use one might expect during a power outage, but I would NOT leave it outside indefinitely, as one must do with an RV cord. In other words, don't cheap out on this critical component.

If your rig connects to 50 Amp/240 volts, you need to SUPPLY 50 Amp/240 volts. If you have a "cheap" extension cord or one that adds too much length, the subsequent voltage drop is unhealthy for your appliances...in particular that very expensive refrigerator. When the hot water heater comes on along with the furnace (or AC) and the fridge starts, the fridge needs adequate, stable voltage so that it is not damaged by what amounts to a "brown out."

By the way, there are many sources for determining distance/voltage/amps/wire gauge. I looked for a chart for 240/volts at 50 amps and came up short. But this chart for 110 volts is a good place to start. The chart states that circuit lengths can be doubled for 240 volts. #6 is adequate for 100 feet.
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Old 12-03-2021, 01:40 PM   #11
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B The chart states that circuit lengths can be doubled for 240 volts.
I think that would be 240 volts "single phase" not the RV split phase 120 volt 50 amp. Even at full load (50A) at 100 feet the loss is just slightly over 3%. At 35A load about 2.5% loss. As you said, seems as though 100 feet would not be an issue.
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Old 12-03-2021, 01:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by wildmanabe View Post
... ...
...

When i get the outlet installed on house, it be about 60 ft from connection on the rv. What i would like to know, as prices go from low to extreme. Is a gen cord same as a rv cord.
...
Not answering your direct question, but maybe another idea.
I had a similar issue. I had a 50-amp RV receptacle on the side of my home. But it too was about 60 feet from plugging in my RV (30-amp). I decided install a power pedestal at a convenient location for my needs and ran wires underground from the 50-amp box to the pedestal. More expensive than an extension cord, but so much easier to use.

Power Pedestal that I used.
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Old 12-03-2021, 02:49 PM   #13
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This is the proper way to do this. Overall probably not that much more expensive and certainly more reliable and easier to use. 60ft of 6/3 and gnd is going to be very awkward to handle and is subject to damage unless you bury it.

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Not answering your direct question, but maybe another idea.
I had a similar issue. I had a 50-amp RV receptacle on the side of my home. But it too was about 60 feet from plugging in my RV (30-amp). I decided install a power pedestal at a convenient location for my needs and ran wires underground from the 50-amp box to the pedestal. More expensive than an extension cord, but so much easier to use.

Power Pedestal that I used.
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Old 12-05-2021, 06:02 AM   #14
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Update

well had sparky electrical services come over. $1200-$1800 depending on where on house i have outlet put.
Another electrician friend of a friend. said about $1000. <Not sure of what the bottom line would come in at
tomorrow got another company coming over for price.
Got the Luxury of not needing it right away, so holding out for a good price.
But guys, So far i learned a lot from you all. Thanks so far.
PS. with all of them 1st thing i ask, "Have you ever installed one for an RV.
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Old 12-05-2021, 08:58 AM   #15
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well had sparky electrical services come over. $1200-$1800 depending on where on house i have outlet put.
Another electrician friend of a friend. said about $1000. <Not sure of what the bottom line would come in at tomorrow got another company coming over for price.
Got the Luxury of not needing it right away, so holding out for a good price.
But guys, So far i learned a lot from you all. Thanks so far.
PS. with all of them 1st thing i ask, "Have you ever installed one for an RV.
Off hand, the higher estimate does not seem unreasonable for a completed job. I did my job myself a couple of years ago. I think I spent nearly $700 total. So, guessing for inflation and hired labor, then $1,800 doesn't seem unrealistic. The copper wire alone is probably costing $300-$400. Labor wise, this is a pretty simple job: essentially a straight trench, conduit with two bends, and a small concrete pad & pedestal. The panel I referenced is pre-wired with all the necessary hardware so electrical connection is easy. If you hire it done, just be sure of what you are getting and the price for a complete plug-in-ready job.
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Old 12-05-2021, 10:23 AM   #16
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the prices were for just outside of the elec box on garage. an at end of the house approx 36 ft from box outside. If it was at the RV i prob would of said yes.
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Old 12-05-2021, 11:27 AM   #17
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the prices were for just outside of the elec box on garage. an at end of the house approx 36 ft from box outside. If it was at the RV i prob would of said yes.
I don't know what electricians get in Florida, but now it's beginning to sound a bit expensive. I suspect, however, it is more laborious to connect to your main panel and run 36' to a receptacle on the side of your home. Considering the $1,800 side-of-house receptacle and the need for and additional $400-$500 extension cord, then it might more cost-effective to go from your main panel to a 100-foot underground run. You'll go with 4-AWG for such a run. A rental trenching machine makes quick work of a 100-foot trench … it might even tempt you run sewer and water lines. (I couldn't get the slope I needed and stay below the freeze line.)
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Old 12-13-2021, 10:17 PM   #18
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I realize you only question was about a generator extension cord, not generators or permanent wiring.

I'm repeating what a few others have said... put a pedestal where you need it.
Seems like there isn't much difference between doing it 'right' and using an extension cord (expensive).
Any extension cord you use (expensive) won't last very long with exposure to weather, sun, lawnmowers, and dogs chewing.

I doesn't take much to do it yourself... on a weekend.
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Old 12-13-2021, 11:34 PM   #19
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searched few pages, few sites. didn't find an answer.
Got a 5th wheel. would like to have a shore power set up so if i decided to spend night in it i have ac/heat, tv ect...
When i get the outlet installed on house, it be about 60 ft from connection on the rv. What i would like to know, as prices go from low to extreme. Is a gen cord same as a rv cord.
Ps. only thing i actually found was ya don't plug into a dryer box. lol
Do not use a gen cord. It may not be wired the same. An RV 50 amp circuit is 2 120 volt circuits some day or is a 240 vac circuit. Technically it is. But they is no 240 on an RV.

To write an outlet at your house your will need a 4 prong 50 amp plug.

PM me and I will give you a list of material and tell you how to do it. Lowe's has what you need. Your RV should have come with a cord. If it is too short, you can buy an extension cord, 50 amp.
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Old 12-14-2021, 11:30 AM   #20
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Generator cords, such as you find in box stores to power a house during a storm are rated 30 amps. No, they won't work for a 50 amp RV. A 30 amp RV can be powered with one, provided the proper ends are used.
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