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Old 03-04-2014, 07:42 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by AquaMan View Post
In fact, EVERY 50 amp RV outlet should put out 220v, it just depends on which legs you are measuring across. NO 30 amp RV outlet is 220.
I understand how a 50amp is wired, and yes you are right, but if you have a 50 amp for a RV it should put out 110 to the camper if wired correctly, if you are plugging in a stove it should have 220. He had it wired with 220 on both legs(110 on each leg, correct way), but where he went wrong is he had 120 on ground and neutral/common instead of on ground and leg. It was wired wrong and if a 50amp camper would have plugged in the same thing would have happened since all campers run off 110 and not 220. If I would have plugged in a stove I could have started to cook but I would have had to shove the cord into the receptacle since the ground on a stove is ''L" shaped instead of a prong.
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:33 PM   #22
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At first I was thinking bad neutral too but sounds like the guy who wired it probably took a hot to the neutral screw on the back of the recep and took the neutral to the hot screw. That would do it if he was using a 50 to 30 adaptor. The guy probably replaced a bad receptacle after the last rig pulled out and mistankingly tied it in wrong. If he does his own campground maintenance he should own up. If he hired an electrician they should have insurance for that stuff. We do.
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:59 PM   #23
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At first I was thinking bad neutral too but sounds like the guy who wired it probably took a hot to the neutral screw on the back of the recep and took the neutral to the hot screw. That would do it if he was using a 50 to 30 adaptor. The guy probably replaced a bad receptacle after the last rig pulled out and mistankingly tied it in wrong. If he does his own campground maintenance he should own up. If he hired an electrician they should have insurance for that stuff. We do.
I asked if he wired it, he said someone else wired it to do him a favor.
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:10 PM   #24
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I asked if he wired it, he said someone else wired it to do him a favor.
Unfortunately, electrical wiring is something that dang near everyone thinks they are an expert at but very few are. The saying "most people know just about enough to be dangerous" holds very true when it comes to this stuff. I hope you get this taken care of. I don't think people should have to be responsible for verifying every little thing they do in life, like plugging into an outlet!
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Old 03-04-2014, 11:12 PM   #25
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You right, at a campground you would think you shouldn't have to test the voltage from the shore power, but from now on you bet your boots I will!
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:48 AM   #26
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It's stories like these that have me planning a trip to camping world to get a surge protector. I know I'm generally careful, but I never considered a defective pedestal.
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Old 03-05-2014, 02:07 AM   #27
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Sorry for your luck.....Glad I have a progressive surge protector installed in my TT...
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Old 03-05-2014, 05:57 AM   #28
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Unfortunately, electrical wiring is something that dang near everyone thinks they are an expert at but very few are. The saying "most people know just about enough to be dangerous" holds very true when it comes to this stuff. I hope you get this taken care of. I don't think people should have to be responsible for verifying every little thing they do in life, like plugging into an outlet!
People (Should) check (Everytime) before they plug into Elect. Makes (NO) difference if it is a (Privite,State,COE,Military,KOA,or your brothers house who is a Union electrician!) (Check before Plug In!!!) Youroo!!
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Old 03-05-2014, 06:57 AM   #29
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It's stories like these that have me planning a trip to camping world to get a surge protector. I know I'm generally careful, but I never considered a defective pedestal.
Imo spend the money and buy nothing less then a progressive industries unit or a Frank's autoformer. Nothing else period.

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Old 03-05-2014, 07:12 AM   #30
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If you have a (Supper doper whatever) installed in your unit to Protect your Elect.system and you plug into a (Bad) Shore power supply,dont you still have to (Relocate or Wait for a Repair to be Made)? Youroo!!
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:16 AM   #31
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This post made me order a 30 amp Progressive Industries Surge Protector
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:24 AM   #32
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Man, I'm really sorry to hear that but thanks for the heads up. I never really thought about it....till now. I hope it works out but I think the only thing this knucklehead would understand is what rattleNsmoke mentioned.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:30 AM   #33
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I was at two different campgrounds last year with wiring problems at the pedestal. My Progressive Industries unit has paid for itself several times.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:32 AM   #34
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If you have a (Supper doper whatever) installed in your unit to Protect your Elect.system and you plug into a (Bad) Shore power supply,dont you still have to (Relocate or Wait for a Repair to be Made)? Youroo!!
And if you didn't have a super dooper whatever wouldn't you have to do the same?
What if you check the panel before you plug in it's fine but 3 hour's later the power goes wonky ?


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Old 03-05-2014, 07:43 AM   #35
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And if you didn't have a super dooper whatever wouldn't you have to do the same?
What if you check the panel before you plug in it's fine but 3 hour's later the power goes wonky ?


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The power may go (Wonky) but I bet nobody is going to (Sneek up and Change the Wires in the Power Box) after I hook up! Youroo!!
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:59 AM   #36
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The power may go (Wonky) but I bet nobody is going to (Sneek up and Change the Wires in the Power Box) after I hook up! Youroo!!
Before I bought the Franks Auto-transformer, I always checked the power and water before I started setting up. I hate tearing down after I get settled. See the "Tree" power "pole" at a campground in NH that had bad power.

I still do even though I bought the Franks power stabilizer/conditioner/surge protector (see my review). I still hate moving.

The Franks has saved me many, MANY times AFTER the initial check when power fluctuations on marginal circuits occurred.
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Old 03-05-2014, 08:05 AM   #37
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The power may go (Wonky) but I bet nobody is going to (Sneek up and Change the Wires in the Power Box) after I hook up! Youroo!!
The worst thing is it doesn't (have) to happen at your power pedestal to affect (your) camper...

(They) may not have to.....
What if the neutral looses connection?
Or line voltage spikes?
Or falls below 100 volts.....
Maybe your step mod will save you from a (accidental) voltage mishap?


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Old 03-05-2014, 08:54 AM   #38
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Imo spend the money and buy nothing less then a progressive industries unit or a Frank's autoformer. Nothing else period.

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This is my last must have purchase before the season begins. I do not mess with the juice. I thought I was an electrician once..... Found out real quick that I wasn't...lol.
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Old 03-05-2014, 09:45 AM   #39
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Most power centers provide 115/230 volts. If you measure between both hot legs you should get 230 volts. If you measure between each hot leg and neutral or ground you will get 115 volts and if you measure between the neutral and ground you should get no voltage. Actual voltage may be higher or lower because of the demand or the power company's supply voltage but the voltage on each hot leg to neutral should be equal. If they are not the campground supply service may have a problem. However even if you have the correct voltage at your power center you may still may have a serious problem. All volt meters do not place a load on the circuit when measuring voltage so all you need is 1 strand of wire to give you a correct reading but when you put a load on the circuit with a badly corroded neutral you may do great damage to your rig. Without a solid neutral the voltage divides between the resistance on each leg in the trailer on 50 amp services. I have worked on marina power for 23 years and have seen this many times. Under loads you can see voltages such as 180 volts on 1 leg and 50 volts on the other. Either way it will always add up to the supply voltage. Sorry for the long post but that is why a SURGE PROTECTOR IS MANDATORY.
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Old 03-05-2014, 09:56 AM   #40
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Most power centers provide 115/230 volts. If you measure between both hot legs you should get 230 volts. If you measure between each hot leg and neutral or ground you will get 115 volts and if you measure between the neutral and ground you should get no voltage. Actual voltage may be higher or lower because of the demand or the power company's supply voltage but the voltage on each hot leg to neutral should be equal. If they are not the campground supply service may have a problem. However even if you have the correct voltage at your power center you may still may have a serious problem. All volt meters do not place a load on the circuit when measuring voltage so all you need is 1 strand of wire to give you a correct reading but when you put a load on the circuit with a badly corroded neutral you may do great damage to your rig. Without a solid neutral the voltage divides between the resistance on each leg in the trailer on 50 amp services. I have worked on marina power for 23 years and have seen this many times. Under loads you can see voltages such as 180 volts on 1 leg and 50 volts on the other. Either way it will always add up to the supply voltage. Sorry for the long post but that is why a SURGE PROTECTOR IS MANDATORY.
True dat!

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