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Old 01-03-2017, 06:58 PM   #41
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Once again, an accurate assessment.

Now it is time to move on...
If this is an accurate assessment, why not provide a link to a UL Listed adapter that provides the current protection you claim is needed. That way the thousands of UL Listed adapters that do not have current protection can be replaced.

Better yet, maybe I will invent one. My fifth cousin, once removed was Nikola Tesla. So I know what I am talking about.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:08 PM   #42
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Same here for me, I'm trying to learn!
Er... uh... you might want to keep looking -- unless you're good at separating fake news from factual news!
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Old 01-03-2017, 10:39 PM   #43
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How about this thought. The 50 amp pedestal is actually two (2) 25 amp breakers. One for each hot pole. So you are not going good to get 30 amps through it because you only lyrics use one hot pole.
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Old 01-03-2017, 10:48 PM   #44
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Nau92 you got that one wrong. 50 amp service is two 50 amp legs (on opposite sides of split phase 230 volt service) with a ganged breaker (both legs trip if either leg sees an overload).
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Old 01-03-2017, 10:59 PM   #45
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I stand corrected. Thanks
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Old 01-04-2017, 12:28 AM   #46
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I wonder if the RV industry wires 30A RVs with wire from the the twistlock on the RV to the breaker box in the RV with wire capable of handling 50A. I have a boat that has two 30A twist lock inputs. Most marinas only have one 30A or one 50A output at the pedestal. I use a Y to distribute the 50A power to the boat. Obviously each leg is 50A but there are 30A breakers right where the power enters the boat so it does not have to run far to be at the 30A breaker thus eliminating the fear of wire over heating. In an RV there is quite a run length from the twist lock to the breaker panel. The RV industry knows that people will sometimes have to adapt 50A to 30A so do they wire accordingly so the wire is 50A rated and then the 30A RV breaker can do its job and the wire can do its job? Has anyone looked at the gauge of the wire coming into their breaker box on a 30A RV.
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Old 01-04-2017, 12:58 AM   #47
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I wonder if the RV industry wires 30A RVs with wire from the the twistlock on the RV to the breaker box in the RV with wire capable of handling 50A. I have a boat that has two 30A twist lock inputs. Most marinas only have one 30A or one 50A output at the pedestal. I use a Y to distribute the 50A power to the boat. Obviously each leg is 50A but there are 30A breakers right where the power enters the boat so it does not have to run far to be at the 30A breaker thus eliminating the fear of wire over heating. In an RV there is quite a run length from the twist lock to the breaker panel. The RV industry knows that people will sometimes have to adapt 50A to 30A so do they wire accordingly so the wire is 50A rated and then the 30A RV breaker can do its job and the wire can do its job? Has anyone looked at the gauge of the wire coming into their breaker box on a 30A RV.
I have. On our 17 Rockwood Roo from the wall mounted Furrion connector to the converter/power center they used 10-2 Romex.
On our previous Keystone Passport they used 10-2 Romex.

They use the smallest gauge wire that meets code. It's all about cost and bottom line. They're not going to go above and beyond. No different than using the minimum rated tires and axles to these manufacturers.
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Old 01-04-2017, 04:14 AM   #48
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50A site with 30A TT

Anyone who has a surge guard device with internal high/low voltage protection inline prior to the power enters the RV, is protected from possible shorts upstream. Through the internal re-settable breakers in the pricey Progressive Industries or Technology Reasearch power protectors.
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Old 01-04-2017, 05:19 AM   #49
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Turns out this RV'ing is a lot more complicated and inherently dangerous than what they tell you in those GO RV'ing advertisements.

I threw away my dogbones, and am considering dumping my Rockwood due to its built in possibility of spontaneous combustion should I connect to a 50 amp pedestal. I am going back to a tent on primitive sites and will be breaking out the old Coleman catalytic heater I have buried somewhere around here. Its apparently much safer than my Rockwood.
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Old 01-04-2017, 05:49 AM   #50
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Mr Havercamp, don't say you are going to use "White Gas" in your light or stove, that will show your age and bring out the "Chemistry People"! Youroo! !
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Old 01-04-2017, 06:41 AM   #51
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For those that understand how campgrounds , or marinas , are wired I offer a suggestion that has worked for us.

Create your own adapter,

IF you think you need a fuse to help the wire between the PP (power pole) and coach install one.

In "theory" its a good idea , but so is a crash helmet while driving your car.

The point is a 50-30 adapter will take one leg of the 240 v source and supply it to the coach as 120v..

Since all these units are similar all will be sharing the SAME 240v leg at the SAME time.

By creating your own set , Either leg of 240 can be used for the input, many times one leg will have great voltage , because so many are on the other leg.

In the past at times we have found as much as 15V difference between the two legs , which is the difference between a good air cond start and a coach shaking stagger., or brown out.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:33 PM   #52
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Just to present some insight about power sources, codes and practises and why all kinds of adapters are offered, I can go back to when a tree fell on the feed line to my house. It pulled and shorted the power connections at the weatherhead. This started a fire that burned the house, melted the feed line which then set my woods on fire. Prompt fire dept action put everything out and the power company came out to replace my line. I asked "why didn't a fuse blow out at the pole. The answer is, there is no fuse. As said in this thread, all of Hoover Dam was available to me. Well actually, there is a fuse to protect the power transformer at the end of the street. I asked "what about my line?". The answer is, your power line is your fuse. Only in Canada do they fuse each house separately (because they have more woods that might burn). So, in retrospect, you aren't doing anything legally wrong by hooking a 30 amp RV to any power source. Your campground is protecting their stuff, it's up to you to protect your stuff. Would I hook a 30 amp RV to a 50 amp pylon? No. Do other people do it? Yes, all the time.
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Old 01-04-2017, 03:06 PM   #53
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Some of the folks that say "bad things are going to happen if you hook a 30 amp camper to a 50 amp service", believe that somehow magically, a load of some sort, of more than 30 amps is going to attach itself somewhere onto the supply cord/line between the inside at your 30 amp breaker box and the 50 amp pedestal breaker and then burn up your supply cord/line before the 50 amp breaker would pop.
I really don't see how this is feasible, unless it was something catastrophic or done purposely and if that's the case, all bets are off on anything surviving.

I've also seen it mentioned... "what if you get a loose connection somewhere in the 30 amp service while connected to a 50 amp receptacle, your wires/plug will melt and catch fire before the 50 amp breaker pops." Well... yes they just might but it won't matter if you are connected to a 50 amp circuit or a 30 amp circuit.

As resistance increases in a connection, (and causes heat which melts the wiring/plug) AMPERAGE DECREASES. That's why we see many cases of 30 amp plugs/wires that were properly matched to a 30 amp service, burn and melt or catch fire. Even the 30 amp service didn't protect it because it was drawing less than 30 amps, all while burning up.

Nothing is fool proof and there isn't a day goes by we don't take a risk of some sort in our lives. Connecting my 30 amp 5th wheel to a 50 amp receptacle with an adapter is near the bottom of my concerns.

Just my 2˘ and YMMV.
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Old 01-05-2017, 04:07 AM   #54
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Nothing is fool proof and there isn't a day goes by we don't take a risk of some sort in our lives. Connecting my 30 amp 5th wheel to a 50 amp receptacle with an adapter is near the bottom of my concerns.
Just my 2˘ and YMMV.
X2, I worry more about if the meat market is going to be sold out of peppered bacon when I get there.

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Mr Havercamp, don't say you are going to use "White Gas" in your light or stove, that will show your age and bring out the "Chemistry People"! Youroo! !
Youroo, I can use white gas in my Coleman stuff? Cool. And to think I always thought white gas was for cleaning paint brushes, taking road tar off the truck, a household cleaning solvent, and starting campfires? Go figure.
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Old 01-05-2017, 11:45 AM   #55
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X2, I worry more about if the meat market is going to be sold out of peppered bacon when I get there.



Youroo, I can use white gas in my Coleman stuff? Cool. And to think I always thought white gas was for cleaning paint brushes, taking road tar off the truck, a household cleaning solvent, and starting campfires? Go figure.
Yes you can and you can buy it at other gas stations now besides Amoco..
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Old 01-05-2017, 12:04 PM   #56
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Nothing is fool proof and there isn't a day goes by we don't take a risk of some sort in our lives. Connecting my 30 amp 5th wheel to a 50 amp receptacle with an adapter is near the bottom of my concerns.
As society has become more "risk informed," it has become "risk averse;" unfortunately, inappropriately so. We've become a society of scaredy-cats.

But if we think we'll get something good out of it instead of bad, the math seems to get inverted. Look at the lottery ticket buyers. They won't plug into a 50 amp pedestal, but they'll drop $10 on lottery tickets.

(PS: The lottery is a tax on people who can't do math!)
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Old 01-05-2017, 02:22 PM   #57
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After some discussion the site team has chosen to close this thread as OP has received multiple answers and has not returned for some time. In addition, recent responses are just rehashing previous answers and drifting further off topic.
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