Adding portable standalone solar

[kenandterry]

Anyone out there ever used a portable standalone solar panel or panels to their rig……trailer, 5th wheel or motorhome, USING THE 12 volt socket on the exterior of their living side, usually found underneath the awning.

There are a number of solar panel kits that include a panel(s), controller and an assortment of connecting cords, so that you might be able to position your panels in direct sunlight while the rig might be under trees.

I already have a factory installed 100 watt roof panel, but not always in the sun.
And…….sometimes I might want to use both sources to keep the batteries healthy.

Comments?

[IPcamper]

I have a Renogy 100W suitcase panel with a controller. I also have a 80W panel that I connect to it to give a total of 180W capacity. I connect it straight to the battery on the front of the trailer with the clips on the cable. This works well for me, I plan on adding a SAE connector to the battery box sometime this year. Having the SAE connector on the box, will allow me to connect without opening the battery box.



If the 12V socket you want to connect to is one of the "Lighter" style sockets, then it is probably fused at your power center. This adds length to the total cable run from your Solar Panel controller to the battery. That may cause voltage drop and power loss depending on the wire gauge and length. It will work, but be sure you have the polarity correct at the socket.

[PhilFromMaine]

Originally Posted by IPcamper

I have a Renogy 100W suitcase panel with a controller. I also have a 80W panel that I connect to it to give a total of 180W capacity. I connect it straight to the battery on the front of the trailer with the clips on the cable. This works well for me, I plan on adding a SAE connector to the battery box sometime this year. Having the SAE connector on the box, will allow me to connect without opening the battery box.



If the 12V socket you want to connect to is one of the "Lighter" style sockets, then it is probably fused at your power center. This adds length to the total cable run from your Solar Panel controller to the battery. That may cause voltage drop and power loss depending on the wire gauge and length. It will work, but be sure you have the polarity correct at the socket.

500 watts total of portable solar. Works great. The only issue I see is possible thievery.

This Summer I will probable connect all the panels with cable just to make it a little bit harder to steal.

[Aussieguy]

You can find some residential sized panels and NOT connect them with a hinge
they are awkward and heavy enough without joining them.

add a simple aluminum leg / framework to allow deploying and tilting
plus some way to stop them blowing away... tent pegs?

add a good charge controller sized to suit the panels you have..
mount it near battery or busbar

your goal is to make deploying the panels as easy as possible.


Find some affordable used panels in case they walk off during the night....


try this video for a bit of a primer..
Not sure if this one shows his beer can tilt optimizer
I would probably go through a six pack getting the panels adjusted just right!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZeuRHfHUA4

,
In case beer can optimizer is not shown
place and hold beer can on the panel surface

tilt / move panel until shadow of the can is evenly distributed in all directions around the can...

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Aussieguy

You can find some residential sized panels and NOT connect them with a hinge
they are awkward and heavy enough without joining them.

add a simple aluminum leg / framework to allow deploying and tilting
plus some way to stop them blowing away... tent pegs?

add a good charge controller sized to suit the panels you have..
mount it near battery or busbar

your goal is to make deploying the panels as easy as possible.


Find some affordable used panels in case they walk off during the night....


try this video for a bit of a primer..
Not sure if this one shows his beer can tilt optimizer
I would probably go through a six pack getting the panels adjusted just right!

,
In case beer can optimizer is not shown
place and hold beer can on the panel surface

tilt / move panel until shadow of the can is evenly distributed in all directions around the can...

Can't speak for all but residential panels as "portables" are just too large to store in an RV or Tow Vehicle while underway to be practial.

Rooftop mounting is a whole different story. They have a permanent spot to travel.

[Aussieguy]

yeah stay away from the over 300W crowd...... not even sure if I can lift them


I want to add framework on the rear bumper


or make a slide so can store them underneath.
will need a good bottom on the slide to protect them.

for now .... I have space on my TV roof racks

[Old Coyote]

Originally Posted by kenandterry

Anyone out there ever used a portable standalone solar panel or panels to their rig……trailer, 5th wheel or motorhome, USING THE 12 volt socket on the exterior of their living side, usually found underneath the awning.

There are a number of solar panel kits that include a panel(s), controller and an assortment of connecting cords, so that you might be able to position your panels in direct sunlight while the rig might be under trees.

I already have a factory installed 100 watt roof panel, but not always in the sun.
And…….sometimes I might want to use both sources to keep the batteries healthy.

Comments?

Yes, I use a 200 watt Renogy Suitcase, connected with a 50ft 12AWG cord to the "Solar on the Side" SAE port. I made the cord, and attached it directly to the Solar Panel output. The cord coils up inside the Suitcase for storage and transport.

I RELOCATED the Solar Controller that was mounted on the back of the panels to just inside the hatch to my pass-thru storage, adjacent to the "SoS" port. I then wired the Solar Controller BETWEEN the "SoS" Port and the Battery. The Controller is mounted on hinges attached to the hatch frame, so it can fold back out of the the way when not in use, or be easily visible by opening the hatch when I want to see what the panel output is.

This set-up allows me to move the Panels around to stay in the sun at the optimal direction and tilt, and allows me to see the Panel output on the Solar Controller while at the TT. It also makes it IMPOSSIBLE to INCORRECTLY attach the Panels to the Controller BEFORE the Controller is connected to the Battery, which can seriously damage your system.

[simiHal]

“ USING THE 12 volt socket on the exterior of their living side,” is likely under guaged for the size wire needed to get full capacity from any panels. You’d likely be better off going from your Charge controller directly to the battery(ies).

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by simiHal

“ USING THE 12 volt socket on the exterior of their living side,” is likely under guaged for the size wire needed to get full capacity from any panels. You’d likely be better off going from your Charge controller directly to the battery(ies).

These side mounted sockets are wired for the 12v power produced by the portable panel's controller output. It won't have any problem carrying power from a controller mounted closer to the batteries. In my TT's case this wire is #10 awg which will easily handle 30 amps for the few feet remaining to the battery.