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Old 03-12-2012, 03:04 PM   #21
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did u find anything near the diameter at radio shack? if u can find one that is very close to the length with that diameter, i'd try it. just make sure it is a 15 amp fast blow (that would be a normal fuze). 250v should be common to all of them.
try an rv dealer. replacing the fuze holder is always an option as previously stated. before i found the ones for my back up camera, that would have been my next choice.

can u send a picture of that fuse? when u say dimple, are u discribing something similar to the bulb in the frig? ie somewhat cone shaped at each end? seems like the automotive fuses for a volkswagon 1978 had similar fuses.
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:45 PM   #22
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Radio Shack had the length just not voltage. Also checked the truck and it blew the battery fuse for the 7-pin. HC
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:40 PM   #23
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Fuse for the truck's 12 volt through the 7-pin has been replaced.

The fuse for the stereo has been ordered from Amazon.

That makes for additional items for me to buy and keep in the truck JUST IN CASE! HC
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:16 PM   #24
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glad to know your going in the right direction !
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:22 PM   #25
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Slowly but surely!

Definitely a learning experience as every adventure with trailer has tended to be...guess it is a good thing I like learning! HC
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:15 PM   #26
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the fuze voltage is not critical just the fit and the amp rating. that is an interesting fuze though. i wouldn't have any problem replacing with proper amperage with one that would fit.
voltage values usually refer to insulation value. on a 12 volt system, u aren't going to come anywhere near that.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:22 PM   #27
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Jim thanks for the info, I will buy a pack of the 15 amp 32 volt fuses and test one and see what happens. HC
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:46 PM   #28
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would be good for a test. if u have other problems, u wouldn't want to waste the fuses u just ordered. hope the fuse was all the damage...most likely is.
back in the old days, they put a diode between the + and - inside the radio in case it was hooked up wrong. it would conduct the current between the terminals so that the extra current would blow the fuse and save the equipment. problem is that usually the diode shorted in the process. in that case, usually replacing that diode brought everything back to life.
if u continue to blow the fuse, i would suspect that diode to be bad. in a couple cases, i found that diode open due to it being thoroughly burned out from the installation of a much larger fuse. seems the logic was that if the small one blew, just put a bigger one in.
ie it may still not be serious even if it blows the replacement fuse. hope all comes back ok for u.

i thought they were all 250v because that was what i was useto seeing on power supplies. went out and looked at some automotive type and they were 32v. that little strip still melts on amperage.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:04 PM   #29
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The TT is back in storage but we will taking our first trip of the season in a few weeks so I will have fuses ready and will update this thread with the results. I am still going through a mental check list of what other items I could have harmed by connecting the battery backwards. Any suggestions or concerns just let me know.

BTW I have a 7-pin tester so after replacing the 12-volt truck fuse the items tested good on the truck.

Thanks
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:22 PM   #30
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Well the 15 amp 32 volt fuse fixed the radio. I appears I have everything back to working order. Taped the postive battery terminal cables with red electrical tape and the negatives with black electrical tape...hopefully I will not make that mistake again.

Thanks for everyones assistance!!

HC
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:01 PM   #31
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Glad to hear I'm not the only one. I blew two fuses on the truck when I hooked up our battery backwards. Missed the one that wouldn't let me shift out of park - luckily, our regular mechanic is a decent guy and didn't charge a whole lot to replace a fuse. He got a good laugh out of it.

I used my thermal label printer and printed "positive" and "negative" stickers for the wires. After I attached those stickers, and went camping for a week, I noticed a sticker on the A-Frame that said the white wire was negative. D'OH!
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:16 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiCab View Post
Radio Shack had the length just not voltage. Also checked the truck and it blew the battery fuse for the 7-pin. HC
Hey, the 250V is just the rating. If you're going to use it in a 12V system, the voltage rating is not important...
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:19 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by phrogpilot73 View Post
I used my thermal label printer and printed "positive" and "negative" stickers for the wires. After I attached those stickers, and went camping for a week, I noticed a sticker on the A-Frame that said the white wire was negative. D'OH!
Its taking a bit of getting used to for me, too. Seems the trailer wire colors are closer to home wire colors.
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:26 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phrogpilot73
Glad to hear I'm not the only one. I blew two fuses on the truck when I hooked up our battery backwards. Missed the one that wouldn't let me shift out of park - luckily, our regular mechanic is a decent guy and didn't charge a whole lot to replace a fuse. He got a good laugh out of it.

I used my thermal label printer and printed "positive" and "negative" stickers for the wires. After I attached those stickers, and went camping for a week, I noticed a sticker on the A-Frame that said the white wire was negative. D'OH!
Ha! I did it too this year but I plugged into shore power with the battery cables reversed. The battery is fried, but everything else appears to be in working order. Didn't find any blown fuses either.
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:59 AM   #35
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I've been reading this thread because I did the same thing on my Roo 19 -- hooking up the battery in reverse after a long day at work! The 40 amp fuse blew in the fuse box so I replaced that. Radio and bathroom vent fan still aren't working. To get the radio working again, I replaced the inline 15 amp fuse behind the radio with what Autozone carries -- 15 amp, 32 volt fuse glass tube. But the blue 15 amp fuse in the fuse box still keeps blowing. So, not sure what to try next.

Should I search for a 15 amp 250 volt fuse at my electrical supply shop? Am I not using a "fast blow" fuse? Or something else?

Thanks for any suggestions!
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:17 AM   #36
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Might have shorted your radio if its still blowing.
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:19 AM   #37
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Hopefully not, but is there an easy way to test to see if that's true? Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:10 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by dennismcc76
Hopefully not, but is there an easy way to test to see if that's true? Thanks.
Take out fuse at radio then install one back in distribution panel to see if it still pops there.
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:49 PM   #39
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Hopefully not, but is there an easy way to test to see if that's true? Thanks.

I am being sarcastic and not suggesting you do this.

But what some of my 'Assistant Techs' have done is keep putting bigger and bigger fuses into the fuse holder until they let all the smoke out of something. Then they know what part was bad and can replace it.

I ever tell you guys about that time I found a #10 machine bolt jammed into an AGC fuse holder?
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:08 PM   #40
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Finds intermittent problems too.
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