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Old 04-01-2015, 01:07 PM   #1
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All lights good except running lights - why?

I'm hoping you folks can help me out here. My 2011 Rockwook Roo's turn signal and brake lights work, but the running lights and tail lights don't. I'm pretty sure my tow vehicle's wiring is correct and the problem is on the trailer side due to the fact that my diagnostic LED tool says it's correct, and when I hook up my vehicle to another trailer the running lights do work. I cleaned the connector to no avail. I tried to find a wiring diagram - no luck. Has anyone had a similar problem that can point me in the right direction? For example, does the running light circuit have a separate return to ground than the brake lights that may have become disconnected?
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:26 PM   #2
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Has to be broken/pinched wire as they use the same circuit. Have access to meter/test light? If trailer battery is charged, you can use a fuse-stat (automatic re-setting fuse), jumper trailer pig-tail plug, for power, so you can keep tv out of way. The running light ground depends on your siding material. Some lights use the attaching screws as the ground, and fiberglass needs a separate ground source. Finding the connections, where they are, is anybodys guess.
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:33 PM   #3
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There should be a wiring "junction" box just under the front of your camper.
Start there.

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Old 04-01-2015, 02:38 PM   #4
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We went round and round with this on our XLR last year. I had a electrician look at it - no luck. It took two trips to a very competent independant RV tech to solve the issue. Ours turned out to be a pinched wire at one of the tail lights. It was run incorrectly at the factory and after 2 years of use it failed. Our fault was intemittent.

The place to start is your junction box where the 7 wire connects to the unit. I hope you are lucky and find it there!
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:57 PM   #5
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Brake and turn signal lights use a different wire than lights. The lights are usually the brown wire at the plug so start there and work your way back.

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Old 04-01-2015, 02:57 PM   #6
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Step 1, feed +12VDC directly to pin 3 on the trailer connector. If holding it with square nub at 12 o'clock and terminals facing you, it's the pin at 1 o'clock. Put your house battery is in-place, then just bridge a 7.5A ATO fuse between pin 4 (11 o'clock) position and pin 3 - same way campers light the running lights while in the CG. If they work, you know your issue is on the TV side for certain, if not you are certain it's camper side. Step 2 is finding the break in continuity, and it would almost certainly be a break in the +12VDC with all lights out because lights are grounded locally in large part whether on aluminum siding or via screw/lug to chassis. Check trailer plug to junction box first as others said in hopes it's easy. If not report back for some advice in branch testing.
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:40 PM   #7
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Step 1, feed +12VDC directly to pin 3 on the trailer connector. If holding it with square nub at 12 o'clock and terminals facing you, it's the pin at 1 o'clock. Put your house battery is in-place, then just bridge a 7.5A ATO fuse between pin 4 (11 o'clock) position and pin 3 - same way campers light the running lights while in the CG. If they work, you know your issue is on the TV side for certain, if not you are certain it's camper side. Step 2 is finding the break in continuity, and it would almost certainly be a break in the +12VDC with all lights out because lights are grounded locally in large part whether on aluminum siding or via screw/lug to chassis. Check trailer plug to junction box first as others said in hopes it's easy. If not report back for some advice in branch testing.
Maybe start at the opposite end.
Step 1: Pop a running light lens off and check for corrosion (wiggle the bulb).
We had 4 not working last inspection. Contact cleaner and dielectric grease, now they all work all the time.

Although none of them working does sound like an open wire.
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Old 04-01-2015, 04:00 PM   #8
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You don't say what your TV is, but many trucks have separate fuses for trailer running lights and trailer brake/turn signals are also separate from the TV running lights. Look in you TV owners manual and check. My Trailer light fuses are in a totally separate fuse panel inside the truck.
He said he tried tv on another trailer and the lights worked on other trailer.

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Old 04-01-2015, 04:02 PM   #9
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Yup missed that detail
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Old 04-01-2015, 04:05 PM   #10
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Yup missed that detail
Well wake up!
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Old 04-01-2015, 08:18 PM   #11
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Ah yes, thanks for the replies. It makes sense that it would be the main supply wire now that I know each one should have its own local ground. I will check it out, starting at the front. Thanks for your help!!
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Old 09-28-2016, 11:30 PM   #12
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Hey guys this was an old post but I thought this might help. I just ran into a problem with my Forest River 292BHDS bumper pull camper. I ran across this thread in my search and while it was not the answer to my problem I thought I would share what I found.

I had an issue where my running lights would not work. Turn signals and break lights worked but no running. I read all these threads, followed advice and found this; I checked the truck plug and fuse as suggested, both fuses good. The plug would kick power to my tester with turn and brake, but running would not turn light on tester. Both fuses in the truck were good. I applied 12v power to the camper directly with a battery and leads, I could make the turn and breaks light up but when I plugged the leads in the running light terminal, no luck. I then traced the wires to identify what color went where which brings me to this post, many images on google show different color wires for terminal locations. I found that my male plug on the truck and female plug on the truck most have shorted out. I can apply power to the green wire on my camper and lights turn on, but 6" away the plug will not provide power.....The problem was the plug not the fuse... So here is the color code I found;

2015 FOREST RIVER 292BHDS BUMPER PULL

WHITE- trailer brakes
BLACK- power
RED- right turn
BROWN- left turn
YELLOW- reverse light (capped off in junction box attached to frame under driver side near propane tanks)
GREEN- running lights
BLUE- ground

Hope this helps someone in the future!!

2015 292BHDS
2014 RAM 2500 CUMMINS
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:23 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by track320 View Post
Hey guys this was an old post but I thought this might help. I just ran into a problem with my Forest River 292BHDS bumper pull camper. I ran across this thread in my search and while it was not the answer to my problem I thought I would share what I found.



I had an issue where my running lights would not work. Turn signals and break lights worked but no running. I read all these threads, followed advice and found this; I checked the truck plug and fuse as suggested, both fuses good. The plug would kick power to my tester with turn and brake, but running would not turn light on tester. Both fuses in the truck were good. I applied 12v power to the camper directly with a battery and leads, I could make the turn and breaks light up but when I plugged the leads in the running light terminal, no luck. I then traced the wires to identify what color went where which brings me to this post, many images on google show different color wires for terminal locations. I found that my male plug on the truck and female plug on the truck most have shorted out. I can apply power to the green wire on my camper and lights turn on, but 6" away the plug will not provide power.....The problem was the plug not the fuse... So here is the color code I found;



2015 FOREST RIVER 292BHDS BUMPER PULL



WHITE- trailer brakes

BLACK- power

RED- right turn

BROWN- left turn

YELLOW- reverse light (capped off in junction box attached to frame under driver side near propane tanks)

GREEN- running lights

BLUE- ground



Hope this helps someone in the future!!



2015 292BHDS

2014 RAM 2500 CUMMINS


And yet your wires are still incorrect.

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Old 09-29-2016, 08:59 AM   #14
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Hi,

I had that happen once, and discovered that a "critter" had taken up lodging in my underbelly and decided to snack on my wiring.

Hope your solution is easier to find than mine was.

FWIW.

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Old 09-29-2016, 09:29 AM   #15
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Ah yes, thanks for the replies. It makes sense that it would be the main supply wire now that I know each one should have its own local ground. I will check it out, starting at the front. Thanks for your help!!
Be sure to get back to the forum so that we may all learn from your experience what caused the problem and where to look
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