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Old 10-04-2016, 08:16 PM   #1
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Any suggestion on an electric heater?

2017 FR3 We tried a 1500 w electric heater and the circuit breaker trips when refrigerator starts. Any suggestion on a low wattage heater? We have tried different outlets (which are limited).
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Old 10-04-2016, 08:54 PM   #2
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2017 FR3 We tried a 1500 w electric heater and the circuit breaker trips when refrigerator starts. Any suggestion on a low wattage heater? We have tried different outlets (which are limited).
1,500 watt heater at 115 volt pulls 13 amps and if I'm not mistaken all your circuit breakers are 15 amp.
You could bet a 1,000 watt heater which may not trip the breaker.

You need to put it on a dedicated circuit breaker.
Have you tried the one that powers the microwave?
Just don't use the microwave when the heater is on.
If you can't find anything you just may have to add a dedicated circuit breaker in the panel with it's own outlet.
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Old 10-04-2016, 10:20 PM   #3
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Does your heAter have a low setting? Most are 750 watts. We have be running ours for four days on low and furnace rarely kicks on. Temps are in the twenties at night.

And if have the ability, run a 15 or 20 amp extension cord to your pedistial and create your own extra circuit.


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Old 10-04-2016, 10:41 PM   #4
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2017 FR3 We tried a 1500 w electric heater and the circuit breaker trips when refrigerator starts. Any suggestion on a low wattage heater? We have tried different outlets (which are limited).

Just a suggestion here. We have a Mr. Buddy Heater that we bought years ago when we had our Pop Ups, and still use to this day. Works great, and is temperature controlled. Uses small LP canisters, so no electric required. Might want to give these a look.

Mr. Heater Portable Buddy Propane Heater — 9000 BTU, Model# MH9BX | Propane Portable Heaters| Northern Tool + Equipment
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Old 10-04-2016, 11:21 PM   #5
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I use a electric bedroom heater (very quite) on medium heat and it runs 750 watts. It runs all the time when the temps are cold but there is no issue with breakers. Are you using a compressor type refrigerator? An RV frig should only draw 2 to 3 amps and there should not be a starting surge.
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Old 10-05-2016, 05:27 AM   #6
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2017 FR3 We tried a 1500 w electric heater and the circuit breaker trips when refrigerator starts. Any suggestion on a low wattage heater? We have tried different outlets (which are limited).
Many have installed or had a electrician install a "Thru wall dedicated circuit" they are the same type used on boats! Connect to the power pedestal with a HD extension cord! Very easy install! Youroo!! Pic of outside power inlet above BTR inlet!
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Old 10-05-2016, 05:41 AM   #7
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When we are plugged into shore power, we have a small 900 watt version, If yours has two temperature settings, the LOW setting is usually about 1/2 of the high setting. ALSO, the fan on ours would switch on and off with the heating element, I modified it so the fan runs all the time.

As someone mentioned, When not on shore power, we have a small Mr Buddy that I modified to use house propane instead of the small 1lb bottles.
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Old 10-05-2016, 05:54 AM   #8
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Many have installed or had a electrician install a "Thru wall dedicated circuit" they are the same type used on boats! Connect to the power pedestal with a HD extension cord! Very easy install!
+1

I did this on my Solera. Only problem was that I wasn't comfortable drilling a hole (blindly) on the driver's side, so I did the install on the passenger side. My setup runs up to 20 amps to a single duplex outlet and includes a dedicated circuit breaker. Probably cost $50 for all the bits and pieces.

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Old 10-05-2016, 06:04 AM   #9
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Personally, I'm not real keen on the use of non-vented propane appliances in a TT when I'm snoozing due to CO emissions. I do use a "bathroom" electric on the lowest heat setting to augment the operation of the Lp furnace, just as the other posters recommend. Besides blowing the breaker on hi when anything else that demands higher current kicks on, the power cord will warm up to the point that it makes me uncomfortable knowing that's going on while I'm napping. Spend the extra couple bucks on the furnace operation and be safe. Happy fall camping
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Old 10-05-2016, 12:28 PM   #10
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Old 10-05-2016, 12:34 PM   #11
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Oil filled radiator type
We have that and also a ceramic heater with kill switch.
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:15 PM   #12
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I have a "Heat Storm" brand electric infrared 1000W heater. It is compact and lightweight. It is very quiet and has a thermastat that you can set your desired temp. I found it on Amazon with excellent reviews. I camp with it (was great last night with below freezing temps.) I also set the thermastat on a low setting at home on cold nights. I'm not ready to winterize it yet.
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:21 PM   #13
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Don't know if you are interested in installed heater, but we had Cheap Heat installed. One of best investment we ever made on coach. Good luck!
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:30 PM   #14
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I am surprised your refrigerator is not wired to a dedicated breaker. Ours is. I believe all appliances should be. I would check to see if you have any duplex outlets that are wired to an independent breaker and us one of those, if possible.

We use this heater - - left over from our boating days:
WEST MARINE Portable Cabin Heater | West Marine

Great heater that has kept us warm on some very cold, blustery days - - both on the water and in the tt. Adjustable fan, adjustable heat settings within 3 separate power setting - - 1500W, 900W, and 600W. Plus it has an "antifreeze" setting that turns it on if the temps drop to 38 degrees F. Oh, it has a thermostat, too, so the fan turns on and off automatically to keep heat you set constant.

A bit pricey at West Marine (if they claim it's for a boat, the price doubles ) Cheaper prices available with some googling.
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:33 PM   #15
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Install a marinco bass boat charging plug in the exterior wall and then put an electric outlet on the inside off set from the marinco plug as it takes the entire depth of the wall. I have two installed on my Cedar Creek and we heat with electric totally in the winter along the Gulf Coast. I used to run an extension cord through the slide seal to accomplish the same result.
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:38 PM   #16
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1500 watt heater is too big!

Get yourself a heater with 2 settings: 1500 and around 800 and your breaker with never pop! you can get these for around 15 dollars, for example WalMart.
Alternately, keep your big heater and force the fridge to go on propane, as well the water heater if it has an electric option. That way you will have enough juice.
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:43 PM   #17
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I'm kinda surprised that your fridge is on the same circuit as the outlet, but I agree with the comments on using the lower setting on the heater. I have a couple of small bathroom heaters and I've figured out what circuits they're on so they don't interfere with other appliances. I also have to shut them off when using the electric coffee maker or toaster. BTW, I hope your heater has a tip over shutoff switch, especially if you have pets in your rig. There's lots of flammable stuff in RVs and a safety switch on the heater is a really good idea.
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:47 PM   #18
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After 10 or 20 years of use our Vornado heater finally failed. While shopping for a replacement I found this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It reviewed very well and was dirt cheap (one third to one fourth the price of the Vornado). We ordered one and it works beautifully. It is even quieter than the old heater. Our only complaint about this new one is the carry handle is a little awkward to use...you must squeeze the unit with your thumb from the other side in order for it to work (as you would if there were no handle at all). Because it is small the sides can get pretty warm, but nowhere near dangerous. It does have a "Low" setting that is 900 watts.

Also...+1 on adding a separate 15a circuit for heater use. This gives your RV a total of 45a service. I used this from Marinco https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on our RV.
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Old 10-05-2016, 02:36 PM   #19
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Most campground 30A pedestals are set up in a tree structure such that three 30A pedestals are protected upstream by a 100A breaker usually in a secured location. If the occupants of the three sites use more than their 30A allocation, it is possible to trip the 100A breaker. This will most likely not make your neighbors happy.
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Old 10-05-2016, 03:00 PM   #20
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