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Old 05-27-2014, 02:51 PM   #21
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Parallax model 7355

Will the Parallax Model 7355 switch out to the WFCO model WF-8955? These are both coverter/chargers that are almost identical in dimension. The price on the WFCO is less expensive also. Has anyone on here ever switched to this model?

link for the WFCO Power CentersWF-8955PEC, WF-8955 55 Amp Power Center

link for the Parallax Amazon.com: Parallax Power Supply 7355 55-Amp AC/DC Converter: Automotive
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:06 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hldurham View Post
Will the Parallax Model 7355 switch out to the WFCO model WF-8955? These are both coverter/chargers that are almost identical in dimension. The price on the WFCO is less expensive also. Has anyone on here ever switched to this model?

link for the WFCO Power CentersWF-8955PEC, WF-8955 55 Amp Power Center

link for the Parallax Amazon.com: Parallax Power Supply 7355 55-Amp AC/DC Converter: Automotive
I wouldn't use a wfco.
You buy cheap ..... you get cheap...

Use a progressive dynamics brand.

http://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4600...placement.html

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Old 05-27-2014, 06:53 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
I wouldn't use a wfco.
You buy cheap ..... you get cheap...

Use a progressive dynamics brand.

4600 Series Upgrade or Replacement Power Converters from Progressive Dynamics

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x'2 you are going backwards instead of in proving Progressive 4600- 55 amp all the way. 4 stage charger not 3 stage like the WFCO......35.00 bucks more and you will kept your battery longer....
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:04 PM   #24
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Help needed again....

What about just sticking with the original equipment, the Parallax model 7355. I also need to replace my circuit board. Look closely at the negative connection it got fried somehow. It was like this when I purchased it. A local RV shop here in N.C. said possibly the battery was hooked up in reverse causing the damage. Does anyone know where to find the circuit board? Nice if they came together with the charger.
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:20 PM   #25
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Would this replace the Parallax Model 7355? Is it easy to hookup? I am above average with wiring,just never did RV wiring before
Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
I wouldn't use a wfco.
You buy cheap ..... you get cheap...

Use a progressive dynamics brand.

4600 Series Upgrade or Replacement Power Converters from Progressive Dynamics

TURBS


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Old 05-27-2014, 11:32 PM   #26
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The access to the installation manual is right on that page. Anyway here is the link.
http://www.progressivedyn.com/pdfs/4...tion_guide.pdf
Looks quite straightforward...take pictures as you remove stuff!
You will want the 4655 to replace the 7355. Nice unit for your situation.
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:34 PM   #27
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I believe the company best converters would have a circuit board for the parallax 7355.

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Old 05-28-2014, 04:26 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by hldurham View Post
What about just sticking with the original equipment, the Parallax model 7355. I also need to replace my circuit board. Look closely at the negative connection it got fried somehow. It was like this when I purchased it. A local RV shop here in N.C. said possibly the battery was hooked up in reverse causing the damage. Does anyone know where to find the circuit board? Nice if they came together with the charger.
When I replaced my WFCO with Progressive 4600/55 amp, it comes with a new board and everything. It is a direct replacement. Go to the progressive web site and it will give you the #'s that they replace. Easy to do.......You can hold the 12 volt side board in your hand and just transfer (1) wire at a time. then snap it in place......
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:12 AM   #29
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I think I have answered my original question of should I buy a new converter or not. The answer seems to be I should buy a new converter. Mainly because I want all the nice features of the better converter not because I have determined my converter is bad. So I am going to move on. I still want to understand better what I am seeing. For example - WHY do I see the following. I could leave my multimeter connected at converter to the converter out terminal and battery negative terminal. With the main fuses out it will read 13.2 with the fuses in it drops to 12.1. Why is that? Maybe I should start a new thread.
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:21 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by dlongmore View Post
I could leave my multimeter connected at converter to the converter out terminal and battery negative terminal. With the main fuses out it will read 13.2 with the fuses in it drops to 12.1. Why is that? Maybe I should start a new thread.
The converter does NOT like your battery (dead or shorted cell). It is shutting down when it sees it through those fuses. You most likely have a battery problem with a single bad cell - causing the max voltage to average 12.1 VDC.

If converter operates normally without the battery installed, but will not charge it with it in the circuit (voltage less than 13), I think battery. It is also remotely possible that the circuit in the converter that checks the battery could also be bad. Try a known good battery. Borrow one if you need to.
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Old 06-01-2014, 01:31 PM   #31
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Wrapping it up. I sent an email to the manufacturers of my converter and this was their reply.

Disconnect the batteries, and turn off as much 12 volt load as possible. Monitor the voltage at the blue wire and DC negative (battery negative). The voltage at no load really should be close to 13.8VDC measured with a good quality voltmeter. Turn on 12 volt light bulbs one at the time. See how many bulbs will illuminate until the voltage drops below 12.5volts. Each incandescent lamp (bulb) will draw about 1.5 amperes. Total that amp load. If the voltage drops below 12.5 with significantly less than a total of 55 ampere load, the converter section would be considered defective and would require replacement.

Unfortunately, without a DC ammeter capable of reading 55-60 DC amperes to use in conjunction with the voltmeter, you cannot know with absolute certainty the converter is defective. However the test above works very well most of the time.

When I did this my reading were very erratic. In the 22 then 9 but mostly around 9. So I determined the converter was bad and decided to call Randy at Bestconverter and get me a Progressive Dynamic 4600 series. It came yesterday and I had it installed with a couple hours of it arriving at my doorstep. I may do one more post in a week or so saying how it has performed for me. The install was not bad at all. I am looking forward to having my batteries charge quicker and not worry about overcharging.
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:50 AM   #32
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That test procedure is now added to my "bag of tricks" -
Thanks for following it up.

Herk
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Old 06-02-2014, 12:30 PM   #33
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That test procedure is now added to my "bag of tricks" -
Thanks for following it up.

Herk
Herk how do you add stuff like this? do you print and scan it in your computer or can you save it somehow in the forum somewhere? Thanks Glenn
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Old 06-02-2014, 12:44 PM   #34
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Herk how do you add stuff like this? do you print and scan it in your computer or can you save it somehow in the forum somewhere? Thanks Glenn
I cut and pasted the procedure from the post to Word; then edited it into something I can follow as "steps"; then save to the Herkbrary in the ELECTRICAL\WFCO CONVERTER folder as a PDF.
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Old 06-03-2014, 03:17 AM   #35
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I cut and pasted the procedure from the post to Word; then edited it into something I can follow as "steps"; then save to the Herkbrary in the ELECTRICAL\WFCO CONVERTER folder as a PDF.
Got it thanks that's a great Idea..... By the way you would love it here at SEA MIST in Virginia Beach at the Oceano NAS. Jet's just fly over us all day long doing all kindas of formations.......Sorry for the high jack....
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