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07-29-2022, 05:45 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 5
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Battery charging when towing
When towing, does the tow vehicle charge the 12V battery(ies)? Have a 2021 Surveyor and having trouble keeping the Norcold 12V fridge out of trouble codes
Thanks
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07-29-2022, 06:07 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9,678
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I know this is not a great answer, the tow vehicle can trickle charge the batteries. A lot depends on the tow vehicle.
What is your tow vehicle ?
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2005 Dodge 3500 Cummins
2017 Wildwood Lodge 4092 BFL
1966 Mustang GT
1986 Mustang SVO
Lillie Spoiled Rotten Boxer Mix
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07-29-2022, 06:32 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Posts: 451
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Depends on the truck. Mine explains it in the owners manual and it provides power.
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22 Freedom Express 257BHS
19 F-150 3.5 Max-Tow
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07-29-2022, 06:41 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fipntdot
Depends on the truck. Mine explains it in the owners manual and it provides power.
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Exactly.
Some may require installing a fuse or a relay in a socket to "enable" charging.
Also you can check for voltage on the charge connection at the socket on the truck with a meter.
__________________
-2017 Isata 5 35DB (bunkhouse)
#teambunkhouse
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07-29-2022, 07:09 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 606
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Another possibility is use propane while driving. I do that sometimes.
Sent from my IN2015 using Forest River Forums mobile app
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07-29-2022, 07:16 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hack522
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If it truly is a “Norcold 12V fridge”, it doesn’t have a propane option.
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2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
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07-29-2022, 07:27 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 1,013
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You will likely want to either consider solar on the roof or a DC-DC charger, or both.
Between the parasitic draws and the refrigerator your tow vehicle will likely not be able to keep up.
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07-29-2022, 07:54 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 3,566
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Technically yes. Actually, no.
There is terrible line loss on dc wiring.
Your truck likely sends 15 amps per hour back there. However, line loss dramatically cuts that.
We have a blutooth battery monitor. My monitor says the voltage back there in the rv is 13.0. Barely a trickle. Your fridge and parasitic loads likely often needs closer to 10 amps. Therefore the tv does not supply enough.
You need a 200-400 watt solar panel. A dc/dc charger gizmo, Or double or triple the battery capacity. I think you have only 40 dc amps available.
My guess is the rv has the DOT minimum battery designed only to power the trailer brakes. Not a properly sized rv battery. Pretty normal today. Your rv needs to be plugged in daily.
Installing a battery monitor is a good idea. Batteries are now, and have always been, the weak link.
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07-29-2022, 08:50 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oaklevel
I know this is not a great answer, the tow vehicle can trickle charge the batteries. A lot depends on the tow vehicle.
What is your tow vehicle ?
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2018 Silverado 5.3L
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07-29-2022, 08:52 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Dan
If it truly is a “Norcold 12V fridge”, it doesn’t have a propane option.
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2021 Surveyor only comes with 12v/110v fridge
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07-29-2022, 08:54 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomkatb
Technically yes. Actually, no.
There is terrible line loss on dc wiring.
Your truck likely sends 15 amps per hour back there. However, line loss dramatically cuts that.
We have a blutooth battery monitor. My monitor says the voltage back there in the rv is 13.0. Barely a trickle. Your fridge and parasitic loads likely often needs closer to 10 amps. Therefore the tv does not supply enough.
You need a 200-400 watt solar panel. A dc/dc charger gizmo, Or double or triple the battery capacity. I think you have only 40 dc amps available.
My guess is the rv has the DOT minimum battery designed only to power the trailer brakes. Not a properly sized rv battery. Pretty normal today. Your rv needs to be plugged in daily.
Installing a battery monitor is a good idea. Batteries are now, and have always been, the weak link.
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Thanks- could I follow up with you?
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07-29-2022, 09:36 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 545
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My 2012 Ram CTD only puts out about 4amps via the 7 pin plug (measured at the shunt).
I opted to install a DC to DC charger that can charge up to 40amps, I have measured it at 35amps at my battery shunt. I do not have solar so opted for the DC to DC to top off my Lifepo4 battery as we drive.
__________________
Marc in sunny California
2013 Crusader 260 RLD
2012 RAM 2500 Laramie CTD and 4:10
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07-29-2022, 09:46 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Tarpon Springs FL
Posts: 3,280
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buy a digital multi meter
get one that can read 12v AMPS via a clamp
set it to 12v
put negative probe on the frame or the white lead
push probe onto the red charging
turn the vehicle ON but do nor start it
meter reads about 12.6v is GOOD
start the truck ... it should now read around 13 -14v
https://www.ajtnt.com/Info/7-Way-Diagram
after you have gotten it to read 13-14v ....charging at the connection
put probes DIRECTLY on battery posts
it should read the same 13-14v ... it is charging
now put CLAMP around the battery wire you can READ how many amps you are getting into the battery
if it is charging , before replacing anything ....
have the battery tested it may not be holding it's charge
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Tarpon Springs FL
2022 Salem 24RLXL
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07-29-2022, 10:21 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussieguy
buy a digital multi meter
get one that can read 12v AMPS via a clamp
set it to 12v
put negative probe on the frame or the white lead
push probe onto the red charging
turn the vehicle ON but do nor start it
meter reads about 12.6v is GOOD
start the truck ... it should now read around 13 -14v
https://www.ajtnt.com/Info/7-Way-Diagram
after you have gotten it to read 13-14v ....charging at the connection
put probes DIRECTLY on battery posts
it should read the same 13-14v ... it is charging
now put CLAMP around the battery wire you can READ how many amps you are getting into the battery
if it is charging , before replacing anything ....
have the battery tested it may not be holding it's charge
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About reading the amps, this will read amps drawn which isn't necessarily the max the tow vehicle can provide. You need to ensure you create quite a bit of draw from the trailer to get to that point. So run the lights, the fans, the fridge, the water pump. Keep adding 12v items until the current doesn't go up, that then is the maximum the tow vehicle can provide. If nothing is running on 12v in the trailer at the time of test and battery is already full it will pull very little current.
Also bear in mind that let's say it provides 10amps of charge to the camper and your fridge at max load consumes 15amps from the camper that doesn't necessarily mean you come up short. This is due to the duty cycle of the fridge as it won't be pulling that 15amps the whole time. This is why it is important to pre chill the fridge and the items in it before departure.
If it then only pulls 2 amps at idle use (compressor not running) you would be fine during a whole day of travel as your usage overall will be less than your provided charge.
__________________
-2017 Isata 5 35DB (bunkhouse)
#teambunkhouse
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07-29-2022, 10:22 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 103
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I installed a Renogy Dc-Dc 60a charger for this exact reason.
I have a 2019 F-150 and yea t only puts out a couple amps while hooked up. And the kicker is ,it will only put out voltage if the truck computer senses motion in the truck. So I had to hook up the 7 pin adaptor and then put it in drive and then press on the brake and back into park. A real PITA.
And it would take hours with everything turned off and the truck running to charge the battery even a little bit.
We have a cannon 12v fridge with no propane option. So keeping the batteries charged is crucial.
Renogy makes great Dc-Dc chargers and they are fairly cheap.
I ran a 2 gauge cable from my battery to the rear of my truck and installed a trailer connector for Anderson connectors.
Works out awesome now that I have direct 12v at the back of my truck. Even made up a set of booster cables with Anderson on the one end so I can boost vehicles at work from the back. Works great.
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07-29-2022, 10:41 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 9,097
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The simplest solution might be another battery. Your battery power obviously doesn't have enough reserve to power the refrigerator while your driving.
__________________
2015 Dynamax REV 24TB class C
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07-29-2022, 11:01 AM
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#17
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BHolmes
2021 Surveyor only comes with 12v/110v fridge
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I've never seen a 12v/110v fridge. It's probably a 12v ONLY fridge. The only thing the 110v AC does is recharge the batteries.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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07-29-2022, 12:08 PM
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#18
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomkatb
Technically yes. Actually, no.
There is terrible line loss on dc wiring.
Your truck likely sends 15 amps per hour back there. However, line loss dramatically cuts that.
We have a blutooth battery monitor. My monitor says the voltage back there in the rv is 13.0. Barely a trickle. Your fridge and parasitic loads likely often needs closer to 10 amps. Therefore the tv does not supply enough.
You need a 200-400 watt solar panel. A dc/dc charger gizmo, Or double or triple the battery capacity. I think you have only 40 dc amps available.
My guess is the rv has the DOT minimum battery designed only to power the trailer brakes. Not a properly sized rv battery. Pretty normal today. Your rv needs to be plugged in daily.
Installing a battery monitor is a good idea. Batteries are now, and have always been, the weak link.
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100% agreed all around.
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Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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07-29-2022, 12:21 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikendan
I've never seen a 12v/110v fridge. It's probably a 12v ONLY fridge. The only thing the 110v AC does is recharge the batteries.
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That kind of makes the fridge a 110v fridge too, doesn't it.
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"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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07-29-2022, 12:26 PM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
That kind of makes the fridge a 110v fridge too, doesn't it.
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Then the fridge would also be solar powered.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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