Battery disconnect

[Reverse_snowbird]

Originally Posted by Notch15

Yep, I'm fully aware that all of the negative wire(s) get removed first.

On one of my batteries there are two wires attached to the negative terminal, and on the other battery there are three wires attached to the negative terminal.

A suggestion... take a picture of the battery and it's connections before removing the battery.

You should always turn off the shore power breaker before you plug/unplug the cord to your rv.

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by dalford

It would be easiest to just turn off the main 50 amp breakers in your RV at the breaker panel. This will remove the power to the converter. Then turn off the disconnect switch. Also, make sure your inverter is off.

There is no need to mess with the pedestal power at all or the cord to your RV.

Then remove your battery connections.

Also, as good practice turn off the main 50 amp breaker inside the RV breaker box before removing the shore power. When connecting to shore make sure the main 50 amp breaker is off before connecting your cord to the RV. You do not want to “hot” plug. Connect your RV, turn on the pedestal 50 amp breakers, then go inside and turn on your 50 amp at the breaker panel.

Will turning off the 50 amp breaker at the city pedestal do the same thing as turning off the 50 amp breaker inside the RV?

[Aussieguy]

Originally Posted by Notch15

Will turning off the 50 amp breaker at the city pedestal do the same thing as turning off the 50 amp breaker inside the RV?

Yes/no

inside breaker ----> turns off the power only inside. The power cord is still live and can still shock you especially if it is damaged and ground is wet. Don't stand in a puddle!

50amp... service will have 2 main breakers turn BOTH off if they are not interconnected.

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when people connect to the pedestal the appliances inside can still be ON
converter , water heater etc

if any 120v appliances are ON, there will be current flowing ..... you then get that big spark and you jump 10 feet.

if something is ON that contains sensitive electronics
it may not like the voltage sparks/spikes and crappy voltage for the few seconds it takes to connect/disconnect.

Always best to turn off the pedestal breaker..... to kill the power to everything
The breaker when turned on...... it handles and covers up any sparks, they are still there you just don't see them.


When plugging in a cord OR flipping a breaker.... do it quickly and firmly
if you hesitate it just gives the spark and dirty power more time!

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by Aussieguy

Yes/no

inside breaker ----> turns off the power only inside. The power cord is still live and can still shock you especially if it is damaged and ground is wet. Don't stand in a puddle!

50amp... service will have 2 main breakers turn BOTH off if they are not interconnected.

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when people connect to the pedestal the appliances inside can still be ON
converter , water heater etc

if any 120v appliances are ON, there will be current flowing ..... you then get that big spark and you jump 10 feet.

if something is ON that contains sensitive electronics
it may not like the voltage sparks/spikes and crappy voltage for the few seconds it takes to connect/disconnect.

Always best to turn off the pedestal breaker..... to kill the power to everything
The breaker when turned on...... it handles and covers up any sparks, they are still there you just don't see them.


When plugging in a cord OR flipping a breaker.... do it quickly and firmly
if you hesitate it just gives the spark and dirty power more time!

What do you think about the order of events I listed in post #17 of this thread, with #1 being amended to "turn off the 50 amp breakers at the city power pedestal."

[Aussieguy]

changing the battery.... just turn off the breaker for the converter.
you can still use the other 120v appliances to make coffee or dry hair

12v... is fairly safe you don't want to drop a wrench on the terminals
Unless you got a high LOAD.... something BIG turned on the sparking you see is OK

take a picture of your battery connections.... before you remove anything

Lifepo4... if you haven't already purchased them
look for batteries that have bluetooth or a on/off switch built into the battery
You can then TURN OFF the battery while connecting
Bluetooth is also good to monitor EACH battery's performance.

my batteries replacement ...
charged BOTH up individually so they were same voltage and SOC
turned off the converter
turned off battery disconnect
removed main negative first then positive

----------------- install --------------------------
reverse procedure BUT I turned OFF the battery discharge using the bluetooth.
No sparks and made paralleling both batteries together less stressful


INVERTER...
If you got a big inverter you may get a huge spark
check your invert's manual for how to safely install.

[DES-1]

If you've installed multiple batteries it's always prudent to install a new battery disconnect switch near the battery bank. Then you have a way to completely isolate battery power from the camper.

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by DES-1

If you've installed multiple batteries it's always prudent to install a new battery disconnect switch near the battery bank. Then you have a way to completely isolate battery power from the camper.

What process do you use when changing batteries?

What do you think about my proposed order listed in post #17 in this thread?

[DES-1]

Originally Posted by Notch15

What process do you use when changing batteries?

What do you think about my proposed order listed in post #17 in this thread?

Your #17 post:

1. Pull the power cord at the RV (should the breakers at the city power panel be selected off first? Or maybe just turn off the breakers and leave the power cord connected to the RV?)
First, shut off all appliances inside the camper to make sure there is no 120v draw. Then, If at a campsite, shut the service post's breakers off first (so many don't). If at home no need to mess with breakers if they're in the house's service panel. Unplug the camper's shore power cable from the house receptacle. No need to turn off breakers inside the trailer either.

2. Disconnect the battery with the battery disconnect switch.
If you have solar, depending what your solar controller's manual says, you (in theory) must disconnect the solar panel from the controller. Lots of threads on this and you'll have to decide what's best for you).

Then - Yes, shut off the factory's battery switch if it has one.

3. Remove all wires attached to the negative terminal of both batteries.
4. Remove all wires from the positive terminal of each battery.
Yes.

In my particular situation I always start by switching off the solar panel and then switch off my new battery bank switch. I don't have a need to tuen off the trailer's 'battery switch' as I know for certain the batteries are isolated.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by DES-1

Your #17 post:

1. Pull the power cord at the RV (should the breakers at the city power panel be selected off first? Or maybe just turn off the breakers and leave the power cord connected to the RV?)
First, shut off all appliances inside the camper to make sure there is no 120v draw. Then, If at a campsite, shut the service post's breakers off first (so many don't). If at home no need to mess with breakers if they're in the house's service panel. Unplug the camper's shore power cable from the house receptacle. No need to turn off breakers inside the trailer either.

2. Disconnect the battery with the battery disconnect switch.
If you have solar, depending what your solar controller's manual says, you (in theory) must disconnect the solar panel from the controller. Lots of threads on this and you'll have to decide what's best for you).

Then - Yes, shut off the factory's battery switch if it has one.

3. Remove all wires attached to the negative terminal of both batteries.
4. Remove all wires from the positive terminal of each battery.
Yes.

In my particular situation I always start by switching off the solar panel and then switch off my new battery bank switch. I don't have a need to tuen off the trailer's 'battery switch' as I know for certain the batteries are isolated.

I beg to differ with this.

A power draw that can create arcing will be there whether you are plugged into the pedestal at the campground or connected to an outlet at your house.

Anytime you are connecting/connected to some form of shore power, the smart thing to do is either throw the pedestal breaker, the house breaker feeding the outlet you are plugged into or the R/V's main breaker(s) BEFORE plugging/unplugging.

That will eliminate arcing at the outlet and the plug blades.

[DES-1]

Originally Posted by 5picker

I beg to differ with this.

Huh? If you cease drawing power from the source there is no such danger. a minuscule draw is of no consequence. I don't think is common practice to run downstairs to the service panel every time you unplug a device.

[Notch15]

5picker -

What are your thoughts regarding my order of things in post #17 in this thread? What order do you use when changing batteries?

[5picker]

Originally Posted by DES-1

Huh? If you cease drawing power from the source there is no such danger. a minuscule draw is of no consequence. I don't think is common practice to run downstairs to the service panel every time you unplug a device.

I still beg to differ.

Maybe YOU know you have turned off EVERY item in your R/V to the point YOU believe the draw is miniscule but to advise folks on a forum, looking for advice on how to disconnect THEIR R/V, telling folks to shut things off and then it's OK to simply pull the plug, is not good advice. Newbies tend to forget about 120v water heaters, converters charging batteries, A/C units, etc.

You are certainly welcome to plug/unplug however you feel fit but I also found it interesting you advised to throw the breakers if on a campground pedestal and then gave advice to NOT do so if plugged into your house.

First, shut off all appliances inside the camper to make sure there is no 120v draw. Then, If at a campsite, shut the service post's breakers off first (so many don't). If at home no need to mess with breakers if they're in the house's service panel. Unplug the camper's shore power cable from the house receptacle. No need to turn off breakers inside the trailer either.

I'll stick by my advice and that is (again) no matter where you are plugged in/connecting to, it is always better to throw either the pedestal breaker, the house breaker feeding the outlet or the R/V's main breaker(s) BEFORE plugging/unplugging.

My 2¢ cost you nothing

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Notch15

So is there any harm in using the following order when needing to physically remove the batteries from an RV:

1. Pull the power cord at the RV (should the breakers at the city power panel be selected off first? Or maybe just turn off the breakers and leave the power cord connected to the RV?)

2. Disconnect the battery with the battery disconnect switch.

3. Remove all wires attached to the negative terminal of both batteries.

4. Remove all wires from the positive terminal of each battery.

Originally Posted by Notch15

5picker -

What are your thoughts regarding my order of things in post #17 in this thread? What order do you use when changing batteries?

This looks good except #1.

Either flip the breaker at the pedestal, the breaker feeding an outlet at your house or the main breaker(s) in the R/V's power distribution box. If you do any of those, there's no need to disconnect the shore cable... but... you certainly can at that point if you like.

My only other point of concern is if you have solar... You'll need to be cautious of the solar feed to the battery, whether through a cut-off or a bare cable end connected to the battery. There's plenty of debate on disconnecting the solar feed to the battery when hot (live) but the folks at GoPower assured me it does no harm to their controller and I have done so now several times. (I remove and carefully isolate - read tape it up!) One might check with the manufacturer of their controller if different.

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by 5picker

This looks good except #1.

Either flip the breaker at the pedestal, the breaker feeding an outlet at your house or the main breaker(s) in the R/V's power distribution box. If you do any of those, there's no need to disconnect the shore cable... but... you certainly can at that point if you like.

My only other point of concern is if you have solar... You'll need to be cautious of the solar feed to the battery, whether through a cut-off or a bare cable end connected to the battery. There's plenty of debate on disconnecting the solar feed to the battery when hot (live) but the folks at GoPower assured me it does no harm to their controller and I have done so now several times. (I remove and carefully isolate - read tape it up!) One might check with the manufacturer of their controller if different.

Thanks.

I don't have solar panels on my RV, but I have two wires labeled "solar" attached to my batteries. A sticker inside one of my interior cabinets states "Wired for Solar." I wonder if there is a controller hiding somewhere in my RV? Even if I do, if I flip the 50 amp breaker at the pedestal, disconnect the batteries with the factory disconnect switch, and carefully remove all wires from the negative posts on my batteries, have I done appropriate due diligence?

Here's a newbie question: I have four breakers in my city power stand; 50, 30, 20, and 15. Is it only the 50 amp that feeds my RV?

[Twinboat]

Wow , has this post gone sideways.

A 12 volt battery can't hurt you, you can touch both terminals at the same time and feel nothing.

The battery switch shuts of the charging from the converter, your done.

Remove all negetive cables and then then positive ones, and wrap them in tape for insurance.

If you don't have solar panels, the controller is just a box on the wall.

If your shaking your head from all of the other posts, pull the power cord. That way you don't need to know which breaker to mess with.
Look at the power cord plug. 2 blades and a pin is 30 amp. That's the breaker your using. If the plug has 3 blades and a pin, that's 50 amp and your using the 50 amp breaker. If the plug looks like a house plug, that's 20 amps, not used in most RVs.

[Aussieguy]

PLUS .......

in theory you can leave the 120v connected and ON
leave CONVERTER ON to power the fridge lights etc etc

turn OFF the battery disconnect to remove batteries etc
this isolates battery from the converter

with the converter ON it will power the RV until you are finished installing the battery

if you find you need some new cable or something ... you can order it from Amazon and still sip a cold beer while you wait for the delivery.

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by Twinboat

Wow , has this post gone sideways.

A 12 volt battery can't hurt you, you can touch both terminals at the same time and feel nothing.

The battery switch shuts of the charging from the converter, your done.

Remove all negetive cables and then then positive ones, and wrap them in tape for insurance.

If you don't have solar panels, the controller is just a box on the wall.

If your shaking your head from all of the other posts, pull the power cord. That way you don't need to know which breaker to mess with.
Look at the power cord plug. 2 blades and a pin is 30 amp. That's the breaker your using. If the plug has 3 blades and a pin, that's 50 amp and your using the 50 amp breaker. If the plug looks like a house plug, that's 20 amps, not used in most RVs.

"If your shaking your head from all of the other posts..."


How'd you know?

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by Twinboat

Wow , has this post gone sideways.

A 12 volt battery can't hurt you, you can touch both terminals at the same time and feel nothing.

The battery switch shuts of the charging from the converter, your done.

Remove all negetive cables and then then positive ones, and wrap them in tape for insurance.

If you don't have solar panels, the controller is just a box on the wall.

If your shaking your head from all of the other posts, pull the power cord. That way you don't need to know which breaker to mess with.
Look at the power cord plug. 2 blades and a pin is 30 amp. That's the breaker your using. If the plug has 3 blades and a pin, that's 50 amp and your using the 50 amp breaker. If the plug looks like a house plug, that's 20 amps, not used in most RVs.

"The battery switch shuts of the charging from the converter, your done."

But don't the batteries still supply power to items? The only difference is they aren't being charged?

[DES-1]

Originally Posted by 5picker

I still beg to differ.

Maybe YOU know you have turned off EVERY item in your R/V to the point YOU believe the draw is miniscule but to advise folks on a forum, looking for advice on how to disconnect THEIR R/V, telling folks to shut things off and then it's OK to simply pull the plug, is not good advice. Newbies tend to forget about 120v water heaters, converters charging batteries, A/C units, etc.

You are certainly welcome to plug/unplug however you feel fit but I also found it interesting you advised to throw the breakers if on a campground pedestal and then gave advice to NOT do so if plugged into your house.

I'll stick by my advice and that is (again) no matter where you are plugged in/connecting to, it is always better to throw either the pedestal breaker, the house breaker feeding the outlet or the R/V's main breaker(s) BEFORE plugging/unplugging.

My 2¢ cost you nothing

Glad to hear it, your pointed posts are a bit animated if not offensive. Over and out.

[Aussieguy]

Originally Posted by Notch15

"The battery switch shuts of the charging from the converter, your done."

But don't the batteries still supply power to items? The only difference is they aren't being charged?

battery can be still connected and 12v IS available for use..........
BUT no power (amps) will be flowing through the wiring unless something is actually using power from the battery.


The tiny little bit for the parasitic load from stuff that is always on... will produce a little bit of a spark... won't hurt you!

IF you get a BIG spark ... something 12v is ON and drawing power!
OR there is a short
OR you dropped the wrench
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Millions of cars ... don't blow up, nor electrocute the auto-parts store's underpaid /undertrained battery installers.