Battery disconnect

[2WheelJon]

Originally Posted by Notch15

So is there any harm in using the following order when needing to physically remove the batteries from an RV:

1. Pull the power cord at the RV (should the breakers at the city power panel be selected off first? Or maybe just turn off the breakers and leave the power cord connected to the RV?)

2. Disconnect the battery with the battery disconnect switch.

3. Remove all wires attached to the negative terminal of both batteries.

4. Remove all wires from the positive terminal of each battery.

You've taken this long and rambling discussion down to its essence and correctly so, though I would add that yes, you should throw the shore power breakers before disconnecting.

[Twinboat]

Originally Posted by Notch15

"The battery switch shuts of the charging from the converter, your done."

But don't the batteries still supply power to items? The only difference is they aren't being charged?

No ! It's a BATTERY disconnect. It disconnects the battery from the system.

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by 2WheelJon

You've taken this long and rambling discussion down to its essence and correctly so, though I would add that yes, you should throw the shore power breakers before disconnecting.

Thanks for that

So turn off all four breakers (50, 30, 20, 15) or just the 50, followed by the battery disconnect?

[5picker]

And even with animated and offensive statements and a rambling discussion with people shaking their heads, there are still those on the thread who don't understand the 12v circuitry.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Notch15

Thanks for that

So turn off all four breakers (50, 30, 20, 15) or just the 50, followed by the battery disconnect?

If your R/V is a 50a shore power connection, then the only breaker you need to flip is the 50a. The other breakers are for the other outlets in the pedestal. (that would likely have nothing plugged into them pertaining to the R/V)

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by 5picker

If your R/V is a 50a shore power connection, then the only breaker you need to flip is the 50a. The other breakers are for the other outlets in the pedestal. (that would likely have nothing plugged into them pertaining to the R/V)

Many thanks.

Do you know if there are rubber covers that can be slipped over battery wires that have been removed from the battery terminals, instead of using electrical tape? Or is covering the exposed end of the wires an excessive precaution?

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Notch15

Many thanks.

Do you know if there are rubber covers that can be slipped over battery wires that have been removed from the battery terminals, instead of using electrical tape? Or is covering the exposed end of the wires an excessive precaution?

Easy to just make covers from a piece of automotive heater , transmission cooler, or fuel hose. Select one of these that will fit over connectors, cut to desired length, and tape one end closed.

It's never a bad idea to protect ends of disconnected wires whether ir not they could become energized. Keeps the connectors clean and helps prevent corrosion.

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Easy to just make covers from a piece of automotive heater , transmission cooler, or fuel hose. Select one of these that will fit over connectors, cut to desired length, and tape one end closed.

It's never a bad idea to protect ends of disconnected wires whether ir not they could become energized. Keeps the connectors clean and helps prevent corrosion.

[darrellr]

Originally Posted by Notch15

When installing new batteries in my RV, will using the battery disconnect switch be sufficient in preventing the batteries from powering anything in the RV? I'm on shore power and have a converter.

Disconnect shore power, remove grounds from all batteries. No real need to mess with disconnect switch or any breakers in the trailer. Also, there are draws on the battery that are not affected by the disconnect switch (trailer brakes, CO detection, things like that). When you get the news ones put in place, connect positives, then negatives, then test, then plug in shore power.

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by darrellr

Disconnect shore power, remove grounds from all batteries. No real need to mess with disconnect switch or any breakers in the trailer. Also, there are draws on the battery that are not affected by the disconnect switch (trailer brakes, CO detection, things like that). When you get the news ones put in place, connect positives, then negatives, then test, then plug in shore power.

"Disconnect shore power..."

Just turn off the 50 amp breaker?

[darrellr]

Originally Posted by Notch15

"Disconnect shore power..."

Just turn off the 50 amp breaker?

Given my background I generally turn off the breaker, remove the cable, and throw the break in your trailer for the converter. However, yes, either turn off the breaker, unplug the trailer, or both. I prefer both (I don't plug or unplug hot if I can help it).

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by darrellr

Given my background I generally turn off the breaker, remove the cable, and throw the break in your trailer for the converter. However, yes, either turn off the breaker, unplug the trailer, or both. I prefer both (I don't plug or unplug hot if I can help it).

Are there any drawbacks with disconnecting the battery with the battery disconnect switch after turning off the 50 amp braker at the city power stand?

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by darrellr

Given my background I generally turn off the breaker, remove the cable, and throw the break in your trailer for the converter. However, yes, either turn off the breaker, unplug the trailer, or both. I prefer both (I don't plug or unplug hot if I can help it).

Here is a picture of my CB panel. Do you know what the "OPT" between "converter" and "heater" means?

[bubbles]

Personal observation: I can't believe all you guys are buying this.

[boondocking]

[Aussieguy]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Personal observation: I can't believe all you guys are buying this.

mee too
but it's raining again so not much else happening


turn off battery disconnect .... leave converter ON
all electrical stuff in the Fuse panel will still work
fridge will work too keeps ya beer cold

[Notch15]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Personal observation: I can't believe all you guys are buying this.

Buying what?

[dalford]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Personal observation: I can't believe all you guys are buying this.

[AirDave]

Agree! While on shore power, your batteries will charge. However, you can still turn the M/S off and your batteries will no longer be charging, nor powering ANYTHING in the RV.

[Sk4109]

I always tape my battery leads after removing them. Never have to worry. Always safety first.