I just pulled the switch from my 2016 ikss cleaned it out with WD 40 and now it seems to work great on the bench. I have 4 wires that connected to it. 1 large from the battery, 1 large goes under the trailer for 12volt power. 1 smaller wire goes to the pull away brake switch. I have a fourth small wire that goes directly into the floor of the trailer. Should the 4th wire also be connected to the battery lead (before the switch) so it keeps 12volts always. I am trying to keep the batteries from loosing power while parked and the 4th wire I assume is for the phantom loads that may draw the battery down over time.
I think its for the CO/propane detector but I have propane turned off. Im not sure. Switch now seems to work. Turned off I get no voltage at the control panel with the usb charger.
Dang parasites. I don't have a cut off switch so mine are always chewing away at the battery but my solar keeps it up. The CO/propane detector eats about 80mA. The big eater is the control board on my absorption refrigerator which is around 700mA.
__________________
2019 Palomino Solaire 147X
2013 Ford F150
With the problem getting weekend reservations I think we will be parked most of the summer. I just put new batteries in and want to save as much of the charge as I can. I think I will take the small green wire off and see what doesn't work. With the slides in I have no access to the CO/propane detector tho. Oh Well it working now. I could just plug it in every weekend I guess.
Is this a Rockwood Roo? To preserve that battery charge, charge it to full, then disconnect the negative cable. No more parasitic draw and the battery will stay charged for months.
Linear Mode
