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Old 07-24-2012, 02:59 PM   #21
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Man, I have to tell you, I would get a second opinion at Dometic. I also find it very hard to believe they would install a 12 volt heater in their fridge.

Gonna do more research on your model fridge as the base model is the same as mine just a different "shred." (RBX)
Herk, my 2012 320 Crusader with the Dometic has no switch either.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:00 PM   #22
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Dometic Refrigerator User Manual | ManualsOnline.com

here is the new manual.

Note Climate Control page 5.

Hate it when you get bogus info from the factory, too.
I kinda expect it from Dealers.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:16 PM   #23
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The manual says you can shut it off.
That means there is a switch somewhere.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:17 PM   #24
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Herk, my 2012 320 Crusader with the Dometic has no switch either.
What model do you have?
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:54 PM   #25
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I e-mailed my model and serial numbers to dometic and they said based on that, yours doesn't have one.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:58 PM   #26
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What model do you have?

DM2852RBFX Need anything else let me know.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:05 PM   #27
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The manual says you can shut it off.
That means there is a switch somewhere.
Lou, I think it just means the online manual is now outdated.
I'm betting there is no switch.
Some lame brain at Dometic decided to go even cheaper and dropped it.
Hey dometic -- this one's for you
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:16 PM   #28
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So, you do not have a Climate Control AT ALL; or no way to turn it off?
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:41 PM   #29
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So, you do not have a Climate Control AT ALL; or no way to turn it off?
That"s my story and I'm sticking to it. I guess I'll have to carry an extra battery when we camp in Fed. parks and dry camping in general.
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:33 PM   #30
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Feel free to visit the Dometic facebook page
https://www.facebook.com/dometic and tell them what you think about this "new" development.
I just did.
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:41 PM   #31
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That"s my story and I'm sticking to it. I guess I'll have to carry an extra battery when we camp in Fed. parks and dry camping in general.
No, you missed my point. Did they say you have it and can't turn it off, or did they say you don't have a switch because you don't have the feature?
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:46 PM   #32
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According to dometic, my model has the feature, it can't be turned off, and is expected to draw 3.5 to 4A. There is no way to retrofit a switch.

This is going to be fun to explain. "We bought a generator to power the propane fridge"

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Old 07-24-2012, 06:53 PM   #33
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Youíd be surprised how much power your furnace draws on a cold day and night, it alone can be hard on a battery. Plus if you donít have LED lights each bulb draws 2 to 3 amps. Two or three lights and a furnace and your using 10 amps. 10 amps X 6 hours and you use 90% of your 70 AH battery (At a full 100% charge).
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:04 PM   #34
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If I might suggest a book of pretty good value, here it is: Living On 12 V.
Living on 12 Volts with Ample Power
I'm certain it affords even the most knowledgeable an opportunity to learn more, and even refresh oneís memory.
And, no, I didnít write it or sell it. But, Iíve got it, read it many times, even practiced a few of the ideas. Furthermore, it cannot hurt your pocketbook much.
Enjoy,
Mike
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:21 PM   #35
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Youíd be surprised how much power your furnace draws on a cold day and night, it alone can be hard on a battery. Plus if you donít have LED lights each bulb draws 2 to 3 amps. Two or three lights and a furnace and your using 10 amps. 10 amps X 6 hours and you use 90% of your 70 AH battery (At a full 100% charge).
I have led lights and furnace doesn't run continuously... or not at all right now.
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:39 PM   #36
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Red face

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No, you missed my point. Did they say you have it and can't turn it off, or did they say you don't have a switch because you don't have the feature?
Herk, I'm not the guy who contacted Dometic. My frig is switch free... at least I don't see it anywhere on the unit visible inside the coach. There could be a switch behind the outside " service door". I hope I didn't mislead you.

As always I appreciate your efforts and input.

Rick
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:04 PM   #37
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Herk, I'm not the guy who contacted Dometic. My frig is switch free... at least I don't see it anywhere on the unit visible inside the coach. There could be a switch behind the outside " service door". I hope I didn't mislead you.

As always I appreciate your efforts and input.

Rick
Oops. sorry.
I am just so shocked about this development.
If it was mine; I would look for the heating element and remove or switch it.
I boondock too often for that kind of uncontrolled overhead.
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:18 PM   #38
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The "Climate Control" heater draws 500 milliamps. Not sure is it is on all the time or on a timer in the control board. Page 2 of the parts manual.

Still looking for an actual location of the climate control heater.
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:07 PM   #39
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Battery Fitness

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I have led lights and furnace doesn't run continuously... or not at all right now.
.
*Have you checked for a power drain when every thing is off.
*Have you checked the battery to see if it has a dead cell.
*Have you check the output voltage on the converter to make sure your getting a full charge.
*Maybe as suggested get an inline amp meter so you can monitor your usage.

Just some suggestions
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Old 07-25-2012, 06:22 AM   #40
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According to dometic, my model has the feature, it can't be turned off, and is expected to draw 3.5 to 4A. There is no way to retrofit a switch.
This is going to be fun to explain. "We bought a generator to power the propane fridge"
They might be giving you their "standard" answer.
If there's no switch cut out they're gonna say no way to add a switch.
The heater is located behind the metal strip that separates the
top of the fresh food opening and the bottom of the freezer.
It's the area that's visible between the doors when they are closed.
We've never had a problem with condensation there but I can see
it might happen if you were in a very high humidity and not running your AC.

IF I were you and wanted to dry camp I'd not give up on Dometic.
I'd keep calling until I got to speak to an engineer not just some phone
support person.
That heater has wires and one of those wires can be cut, disconnected
or tapped for a hidden switch. You just need to talk to someone who
actually knows the location of the heater and routing of the wires
and where the heater is connected into your 12v supply.

I've NEVER had mine on so I would not hesitate to disconnect it if I were you.
The most you'll get is a few drops of condensation that you can wipe off
every once in a while when you open the door.

IF enough people complain about this issue they might revise this design.
But they will for sure help you around it if you are persistent and get the
right person on the phone.
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