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Old 01-10-2017, 02:32 PM   #1
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Battery not charging, may need new converter what to look for?

Long story short, I've had my trailer for about 2 years and never had a problem till now. For some reason, my battery isn't charging when plugged into my outlets at the house. I'm a complete noob when it comes to electricity. When I plug in my trailer to an outlet at home, I get power, ie lights etc. work, but my battery isn't charging. This is the first time it's happened, as before our last trip in June, my battery charged just fine. I've checked the 40 amp fuses at my panel, and they both look ok, which leads me to believe I need a new converter. What do I need to look for when replacing it? Are they all pretty much the same? Size/dimension wise, do units all fit the same? Which amps should I get etc? We're leaving on a trip Friday, is this a relatively easy job? Thanks.

Not sure if this helps, but a buddy has a portable charger he hooked up to my battery and was able to charge it.
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:05 PM   #2
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Check the resettable breaker on the tongue. ( see below). Pull the two 40A fuses and test them it can be hard to determine if they are good in while in the panel If you need to replace the converter most are the same footprint. I suggest Progressive as they do a better job.
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:15 PM   #3
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Check the resettable breaker on the tongue. ( see below). Pull the two 40A fuses and test them it can be hard to determine if they are good in while in the panel If you need to replace the converter most are the same footprint. I suggest Progressive as they do a better job.
Thanks! Bikendan informed me of this breaker on a different thread in the Roo section. I'll pick up a few 40 amps just in case and look at the converters if resetting the breaker doesn't do the trick!
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:21 PM   #4
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Do you own a multi-meter and know how to use it?
Basic, simple tests will tell you what's going on before you spend a bunch of money throwing things at it.
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Old 01-10-2017, 04:28 PM   #5
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Hi,

I had a brief encounter with this exact issue the other day. All 12 volt systems worked inside, but my monitoring equipment showed the battery wasn't charging.

Turns out I had inadvertently hit the battery cutoff switch. When I repositioned it, the converter immediately started charging the battery.

FWIW.

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Old 01-10-2017, 04:34 PM   #6
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Thanks richp, but the cutoff switch is in the correct position to charge. Appreciate it though! @5picker I do own a multi-meter. My ability to use it is questionable though lol.
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Old 01-10-2017, 04:38 PM   #7
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When all else fails before spending any money pull the battery and have it tested to see if it will take a charge. Most places that sell batteries will load test them for free.
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Old 01-10-2017, 04:49 PM   #8
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When all else fails before spending any money pull the battery and have it tested to see if it will take a charge. Most places that sell batteries will load test them for free.
X2... and notice "LOAD TEST" - not the same as checking voltage post to post.
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Old 01-10-2017, 04:50 PM   #9
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My buddy charged it with his portable charger when I stored it at his house on Saturday. I assume it held a charge because I was able to operate my power jack. Come Sunday, no juice in the battery. Of course something always comes up before a trip right? lol
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Old 01-10-2017, 05:22 PM   #10
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There is a converter "load test" to see if the converter is OK as well.
It may be putting out 13 plus volts "no load", then wimp out under load.

This procedure is for the 55amp converter.
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Old 01-10-2017, 05:25 PM   #11
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Thanks richp, but the cutoff switch is in the correct position to charge. Appreciate it though! @5picker I do own a multi-meter. My ability to use it is questionable though lol.
Plug into shore power and check voltage at battery terminals, should be above 13 volts if converter is working and re-settable circuit breaker is OK.
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Old 01-10-2017, 05:50 PM   #12
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My buddy charged it with his portable charger when I stored it at his house on Saturday. I assume it held a charge because I was able to operate my power jack. Come Sunday, no juice in the battery. Of course something always comes up before a trip right? lol
This statement now has me confused. If you are saying that after charging the battery with an external charger it was able to operate the jacks on Saturday, but then on Sunday the battery was dead you have another problem. Your battery should not go dead overnight. In addition, if you plug the TT into shore power with a dead battery, many times the initial current from the converter will blow the 40 A reverse polarity protection fuses as they think it is a short. You need to test the current draw from the battery After Charging externally) when you think you have nothing on. It should be a few hunderd miliamps max. If you have nothing draining the battery then the battery is most likely bad.
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Old 01-10-2017, 06:52 PM   #13
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Just for info- had my head underneath my unit on Sunday and my circuit breaker was 50 amp up by the tongue. Makes sense since my converter puts out max 55 amps.


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Old 01-10-2017, 07:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestrangebrew View Post
Long story short, I've had my trailer for about 2 years and never had a problem till now. For some reason, my battery isn't charging when plugged into my outlets at the house. I'm a complete noob when it comes to electricity. When I plug in my trailer to an outlet at home, I get power, ie lights etc. work, but my battery isn't charging. This is the first time it's happened, as before our last trip in June, my battery charged just fine. I've checked the 40 amp fuses at my panel, and they both look ok, which leads me to believe I need a new converter. What do I need to look for when replacing it? Are they all pretty much the same? Size/dimension wise, do units all fit the same? Which amps should I get etc? We're leaving on a trip Friday, is this a relatively easy job? Thanks.

Not sure if this helps, but a buddy has a portable charger he hooked up to my battery and was able to charge it.
I recently read where an RV repair person was selling inverter chargers that he had changed out of customers rigs, They were DOA. He had finally taken time to drill out the rivets and open them up. He said in each case there was a fuse on the main PC board within the unit. When replaced the unit was fine. The manufacture had never mad provisions for customer to change these fuses. He had different manufactures and had fixed a dozen this way. For what it is worth
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:17 PM   #15
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This statement now has me confused. If you are saying that after charging the battery with an external charger it was able to operate the jacks on Saturday, but then on Sunday the battery was dead you have another problem. Your battery should not go dead overnight. In addition, if you plug the TT into shore power with a dead battery, many times the initial current from the converter will blow the 40 A reverse polarity protection fuses as they think it is a short. You need to test the current draw from the battery After Charging externally) when you think you have nothing on. It should be a few hunderd miliamps max. If you have nothing draining the battery then the battery is most likely bad.
This is exactly what happened, although we only put it on the charger for about 20 mins. Enough for me to operate the jack to hook up and disconnect at home. In my other thread in the Roo forum I posted that when I'm plugged into shore power, my power receptacle on the trailer has a blue led light showing I'm getting power. Saturday when I plugged it in, I had a blue light. Sunday, I noticed there was no blue light on the trailer. And my Furrion power cable had a red light on it when plugged into the wall socket in the garage.
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:38 PM   #16
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FYI - 20 minutes will not charge a deep cycle battery from dead.

12 - 48 hours is the normal charge time for a depleted deep cycle battery on a good quality charger due to the charge rate drop off as the battery fills.

Charging too fast will boil the electrolyte in a deep cycle battery. Good chargers have step charging circuitry (called stages) to prevent battery damage when charging deep cycle and "marine" dual purpose batteries.

Car batteries are designed to charge and discharge quickly so alternators and "shop chargers" work great for them. The downside is "discharge quickly" as in they will only last a few hours under load.

Trying to crank a car that won't run will kill the battery in only a few attempts as an example.
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:39 PM   #17
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The lights on the power cable only mean that there is 110V on the cable. The lights are notoriously intermittent or bad so I would put little faith in them. You should test the input to the converter with a meter to make sure you have [power there. If your battery is dead and the converter is working, you can easily blow the reverse polarity fuses by plugging in to shore power. 20 mins on a charges is not going to do much for you on a dead battery. On a separate note. it is best not to have parallel threads as it can cause confusion
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:40 PM   #18
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The WFCO converter is not in a metal box and pops right out of the plastic mount. The onboard fuse is easily accessible (but soldered in).

Silver, perhaps you were thinking of computer power supplies which are sealed against "user fiddling".
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:53 PM   #19
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It's raining right now and my trailer isn't under a cover so I'm assuming testing the battery in the rain isn't a good idea. I got under the A frame and found the reset breaker and it had in fact been tripped. I pushed the button back in, plugged into my house and started cleaning. After about 30 mins I decided to leave the light on but unplug from the house. Light stayed on, I had a red light on "empty" on my battery indicator on the panel, which is better than what I had on Sunday (no lights at all on the panel). I was even able to use my jack. I'm going to leave it plugged into the house overnight and see what happens. Possible progress?
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:22 AM   #20
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Testing the battery in a light rain - I'm assuming since you were underneath resetting the circuit breaker - is no big deal. Just remove the battery case cover long enough to measure voltages.

To know if your converter is charging properly or not requires a series of voltage measurements at the battery to verify each stage. WFCO converters have a history of not entering bulk or trickle charge modes when they should, so checking is necessary for good battery life.

With the battery dead (50% or less charge), or nearly so, the converter should be in bulk mode and charging at 14.4V. WFCO converters are known for popping fuses rather than holding 14.4V for an hour or two. Bulk mode is where Progressive converters shine - they will hold bulk mode to 90% charge for faster recharging.

As the charge of the battery improves, a WFCO converter goes into normal mode - 13.7 or 13.8V. With a nearly dead battery, it will take at least a day to fully charge in normal mode. Both WFCO and Progressive converters hold normal mode for at least 44 hours (can be double that) before they will drop into trickle mode.

Trickle mode is 13.2V, and is necessary to prevent over-charging a fully charged battery. My WFCO converter (since replaced with Progressive) would never go into trickle mode, and I was never sure about bulk mode.

To properly test with a nearly dead battery takes a series of voltage checks over the course of a week to verify operation in each mode.

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