Battery not charging - otherwise okay

[Papicamper]

Discovered my battery is not charged (9.6V no load). The converter (upgraded about 3 years ago and otherwise doing fine) seems to be doing it's job and the "smart" wizard thing (blinking LED fob) is doing as it is supposed to also.
My question: Is there any in line fuse or relay that could cause the battery not to be charging. The battery positive goes to a buss behind the compartment but then I have no idea where.
I am going to replace the battery just as a preventive thing (it's due) but want to make sure a fifty cent fuse isn't the problem.
Again converter doing okay supplying power...until utility power dumps...the no lights. This has happened twice now (recent) without any previous issues with or without shore power. We have been full timing for 5 years now in Cedar Creek 36CKTS. Thanks for info!

[5picker]

The first thing to do is a check of the converter output with a multimeter.

We can guess all day long about an open circuit breaker or cut-off switch but 5 minutes with a multimeter at the battery will give you the answers you need.

With the unit plugged in to shore power. what is the voltage reading at the battery?

The converter could be outputting enough voltage to operate the lights but not enough voltage to charge the battery.

[Papicamper]

Hello "5".
Not having crawled up into the converter area I have not checked at the converter terminals, however all 12V lighting (and there's plenty of it) works fine. The converter "wizard" is telling me A-OK also. The thing is I measure only about one half volt at the battery positive terminal (disconnected and runs directly to the buss) so that's what got me wondering about any fuse or relay.
In theory, the battery should be in parallel with the 12V buss. If the converter is not even breaking a sweat with all the lights on it should be charging the battery too...if there's nothing in series.
But, here's an update: I have put the battery on charge (disconnected) for over an hour and the charger is not doing anything but over working...meaning, the cell(s) are bad and I just need to replace the battery (which I am going to next Wed anyway)

[Papicamper]

Call off the dogs! I believe I've fixed it! It was either the blade fuse holder (notorious for building up oxide and high resistance) or the auto-reset relay or the battery disconnect switch.
I pulled the 30A blade fuse (in the battery compartment area and in the relay circuitry) and then reseated it (fuse was good and also clean), rapped on the little relay module a couple times and also exercised the disconnect switch 2 or 3 times and...whaaa Laaa...we have proper voltage at the positive battery terminal (still disconnected)!
Coincidentally about an hour after doing all this we had a little rain storm come through and shore power went off (we have a conditioner on the mains that keeps things off for just over 2 minutes in case of a power glitch)...and the lights stayed on without a hiccup!
I'm betting on the fuse socket but who knows. I've had issues with them with radios in the past. Probably still going to replace the battery but the converter is fine. Happy to report!

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Papicamper

Call off the dogs! I believe I've fixed it! It was either the blade fuse holder (notorious for building up oxide and high resistance) or the auto-reset relay or the battery disconnect switch.
I pulled the 30A blade fuse (in the battery compartment area and in the relay circuitry) and then reseated it (fuse was good and also clean), rapped on the little relay module a couple times and also exercised the disconnect switch 2 or 3 times and...whaaa Laaa...we have proper voltage at the positive battery terminal (still disconnected)!
Coincidentally about an hour after doing all this we had a little rain storm come through and shore power went off (we have a conditioner on the mains that keeps things off for just over 2 minutes in case of a power glitch)...and the lights stayed on without a hiccup!
I'm betting on the fuse socket but who knows. I've had issues with them with radios in the past. Probably still going to replace the battery but the converter is fine. Happy to report!

Before you spend the money for a new battery take it out and go to an O'Reilly's Auto store. Ask them to do a Deep Cycle test. It will take a while but that test will tell you if your battery is still good or not.

Costs nothing and may save you the price of an unnecessary new battery

[Papicamper]

Thanks Douglas.
That's a very good idea. I had forgotten they do such things. As it turns out I'm doing nothing for the moment anyway.
I had been monitoring the battery terminal voltage (yesterday, reconnected to system) and it has been steadily raising. Last check was 13.5, right about where the converter operates. I believe things are working right now and I had a, sort of, deep cycle "test" yesterday when the power went off for a good 45 minutes due to the weather we've been having here in central Florida/Gulf coast area. The lights didn't flinch! Aside from the 12V to control the A/C and furnace we have nothing else requiring 12V on this "fixed" rig anymore. I am of the belief that whatever was wrong to begin with was "knocked into submission" the other day when I was doing all the testing. We'll see but thanks for the reminder. That saves me about $130...at least for the time being.

[TowPro]

A 5 year old battery is due for replacement

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by TowPro

A 5 year old battery is due for replacement

Not necessarily............It is a condition item. Ive had some batteries last less than 2 years others 8..........go figure