battery questions

[Venomos]

OK all.... First thing: Big huge thanks you to all who replied.... Second: I went to 2x 6V Duracell GC2 from Sams Club.... Third I also added a Renlogy solar suitcase with the correct Furrion adapter and 20 foot extension cables for the suitcase. Power problem solved for now. I also still have to install my Aili voltage meter. I know it's not the expensive one, Victron, but hopefully it will last for 2-3 season until I can get that other one
One question I have is how to run the wiring underneath? I'm thinking I'm going to have to pull the entire underside shell off to get at the actual underneath of the trailer for the wiring. I'll do some more searches but haven't really come across anything like what I'm looking for.


Thanks all!!!!
Jeff aka 'Venomos'

[Mikec557]

Originally Posted by Venomos

OK all.... [big thanks]

A. I went to 2x 6V Duracell GC2 from Sams Club
B. I also added a Renlogy solar suitcase with the correct Furrion adapter and 20 foot extension cables for the suitcase.

One question I have is how to run the wiring underneath?

Jeff, exactly what are you intending to wire?

Won't you simply plug your suitcase solar panel into the side/tongue area?

Are you asking about wiring the battery monitor? Can you post a link to what you bought?

[Mikec557]

Jeff. I don't know the specifics of your particular RV but I may be able to shed some light on the install. I took this picture from an AiLi on Amazon.

Finding a place to put the shunt is always the tough part IMHO. Right now the negative post of your battery probably goes to the frame near the battery. That's the first place you have to change. The cable from the negative post has to go to the battery post on the shunt. Then use an additional cable from the other side of the shunt to the frame to ground the frame.

Some people have used water resistant plastic boxes and mounted those out on the tongue or frame. Others, including me, have mounted the shunt inside the pass through. I made a 5ft long 2ga cable from the battery to inside the pass through. And then I made 3 or 4ft 2ga cable to run from inside the pass through out to the frame.

Let me hit pause here for a minute. Mine is Bluetooth so I stopped at this point. But I think your monitor is not so....

So here I would have drilled about a 1/2in hole in the ceiling of the pass through up into the inside of the camper. (the size of the hole is determined by the smallest end of the wire from the meter to the shunt) In mine it's a bedroom, so I'd mount it in there. But you could just mount it in the pass through. It's not as convenient as having it inside, but it will tell you what you want to know, and it is less work. If you do buy a Victron later, get the Bluetooth, either the smart-shunt or the BMV-712. That way you can just use your phone. But for now, it wouldn't be too inconvenient to just go see the monitor information in the pass through.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by Venomos

... I also still have to install my Aili voltage meter. I know it's not the expensive one, Victron, but hopefully it will last for 2-3 season until I can get that other one
One question I have is how to run the wiring underneath? ...

Jeff, I have a Rockwood Mini-Lite. It's a Murphy bed but similar to yours (and many others) in that the front bed is surrounded by closets, has a passthrough underneath, and bedside boxes that form the passthrough on either side of the bed. I mounted my AiLi monitor on the front of the right side box, but that's because our entry door is there. I can see the battery status easily from inside, or by sticking my head in the door. If you do something similar, put it on the left side box. It will be visible from the bedroom door.

The wire is long enough with a bit to spare. I ran mine along the front frame, then took down only a small part of the underbelly under the point where I drilled through the floor. I mounted the shunt directly on the negative post of the battery using a piece of flat copper. I got the idea from somebody else here (TitanMike, maybe) to hammer a piece of 1/2" copper pipe flat, cut it to the minimum length required and drill each end to match the bolt of the battery and the shunt. The battery cable is connected directly to the other end of the shunt.

[Mikec557]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

...
I mounted the shunt directly on the negative post of the battery using a piece of flat copper. I got the idea from somebody else here (TitanMike, maybe) to hammer a piece of 1/2" copper pipe flat, cut it to the minimum length required and drill each end to match the bolt of the battery and the shunt. The battery cable is connected directly to the other end of the shunt.

That would be interesting to see Chris. Do you have a picture you can post?

Thanks

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by Mikec557

That would be interesting to see Chris. Do you have a picture you can post?

Thanks

I can do that tomorrow it Thursday.

[chriscowles]

The copper you see on the terminal is 1/2" copper tubing, hammered flat, filled smooth after cutting, and drilled to match the size of the post/bolt to which it's attached. The connector on the cable side is a standard heavy-duty screw-down lug available in the electrical department of any builder store.

[Mikec557]

That is a brilliant solution. I looked for flat copper bar when I did mine, but couldn't find any. Wish I would have thought of this.

[babock]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

The copper you see on the terminal is 1/2" copper tubing, hammered flat, filled smooth after cutting, and drilled to match the size of the post/bolt to which it's attached. The connector on the cable side is a standard heavy-duty screw-down lug available in the electrical department of any builder store.Attachment 235828

Ditch the wing nut. Wing nuts have no place on a battery.


Use solid copper bar. Not plumbing pipe.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by babock

Ditch the wing nut. Wing nuts have no place on a battery.


Use solid copper bar. Not plumbing pipe.

And the difference is ... ?

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by Mikec557

That is a brilliant solution. I looked for flat copper bar when I did mine, but couldn't find any. Wish I would have thought of this.

Not my idea. I'd give credit but I forgot who first described it. TitanMike, I think, but I'm not sure.

[babock]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

And the difference is ... ?

Definitely not thick enough for my application. Not 100% copper although that really isn't that big of an issue. Its a hack but might work for some people.


Of course, don't take my advice...what do I know.

[chriscowles]

My question was not sarcastic. I knew you could and hoped you would provide an objective answer. It is, partially.

I take some of your advice, but not all. If the opportunity arises to replace the plumbing copper with a strap it bar intended for the purpose, I may do that if not too costly.

I still don't know why wingnuts should not be used.

[babock]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

My question was not sarcastic. I knew you could and hoped you would provide an objective answer. It is, partially.

I take some of your advice, but not all. If the opportunity arises to replace the plumbing copper with a strap it bar intended for the purpose, I may do that if not too costly.

I still don't know why wingnuts should not be used.

They can loosen up. That's why most boaters throw them away immediately and replace with locknuts. I don't even see a lockwasher under your wingnut. At least use that!


What is going on on the load side of your shunt?



A copper bar is very cheap. In our labs, we had copper bar running around our entire lab and everything was grounded to it.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by babock

They can loosen up. That's why most boaters throw them away immediately and replace with locknuts. I don't even see a lockwasher under your wingnut. At least use that!

I will. See? I'm taking your advice. Consider, though, that this is a land-based travel trailer, not a boat. Except maybe for emergency brakes, and that's a VERY unlikely scenario, my life is not dependent on the wingnut getting loose. Besides which, I'm messing with the battery frequently, which is why I chose to use wingnuts in the first place.

What is going on on the load side of your shunt?

It's a Home Depot mechanical lug used in home wiring, connected to frame ground using #4 THHN. I'm confident that the connection is very secure (it's okay by NEC) but I plan to replace that with #4 welding cable having a crimped heavy duty lug you wouldn't scoff at (too much).

A copper bar is very cheap. In our labs, we had copper bar running around our entire lab and everything was grounded to it.

The operant word there is "lab". While my trailer may be a lab in the sense that I'm experimenting by trial and error to see what works, it's not a lab in the sense of having an industrial-strength R&D budget. If I come across a bit of copper bar of appropriate size and cost, I'll use it.

[babock]

A trailer has WAY more vibration than a boat except when it's on a trailer

Originally Posted by chriscowles

I will. See? I'm taking your advice. Consider, though, that this is a land-based travel trailer, not a boat. Except maybe for emergency brakes, and that's a VERY unlikely scenario, my life is not dependent on the wingnut getting loose. Besides which, I'm messing with the battery frequently, which is why I chose to use wingnuts in the first place.

It's a Home Depot mechanical lug used in home wiring, connected to frame ground using #4 THHN. I'm confident that the connection is very secure (it's okay by NEC) but I plan to replace that with #4 welding cable having a crimped heavy duty lug you wouldn't scoff at (too much).

The operant word there is "lab". While my trailer may be a lab in the sense that I'm experimenting by trial and error to see what works, it's not a lab in the sense of having an industrial-strength R&D budget. If I come across a bit of copper bar of appropriate size and cost, I'll use it.