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Old 07-24-2016, 08:19 PM   #1
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Battery Replacement

I am new to the Forest River forums - this is my first post. I bought a Coachmen Clipper 17 BH last year and my battery is shot (dead cell) trying to figure out what the specs are for the battery so I can get a new one with the same or better. I have the measurements of the battery but nothing else. The name is DynaThrust 24DC3. Search that name and get nothing useful. Any help will be useful kinda in a rush going camping next weekend. thanks all David
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:16 PM   #2
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I haven't heard of that model but based on the model number, it's probably a Marine/RV "Group 24" size battery.

If you always camp with electrical hookups, just get an Interstate SRM-24 replacement and be sure to keep it charged and the water topped up properly.

If you'll regularly be camping without electrical hookups, you'll want a good quality proper deep cycle battery like these from Trojan Batteries:
Trojan Battery Marine RV Batteries
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:19 PM   #3
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By the numbers 24DC3 it seems like it is a Group 24 battery Deep Cycle. A group 24 size is just under 11 inches long by 6 1/2 inches wide by 9 1/4 inches tall. Rated at about 85 amp hr.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:00 PM   #4
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Boondocking - does that mean that group 24 means the actual dimensions of the battery? The dimensions you gave are identical to the size of my battery. I will be looking for a replacement soon any recommendations? We don't dry camp often but we do camp for long periods when we do camp.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:38 PM   #5
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Yes, group 24 means the size. You have a group 24 battery if the dimensions I gave are the same as your battery. If you have the room in your battery holder for a group 27 you should go for it. The size of the group 27 is 12 3/4 long by 6 1/2 wide by 9 1/4 tall.
You will gain approx 25 amp hour capacity more with a group 27 over a group 24.

Trojan are top of the line batteries, but any name brand 12 volt deep cycle will do you good.

Also don't let your battery go below 50% charge before recharging. That will decrease the life cycle dramatically.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:07 PM   #6
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I've had Walmart batteries before and did get a couple bad ones, but they were still under (a 12 month) warranty and I exchanged them without a problem. At one time I said I'd never buy another battery at Wally World, but...

The most recent battery I bought (for my trolling motor) was an EverStart Maxx, deep cycle,group size 24 for $99.97 (plus a core battery exchange) at Walmart. The Maxx bateries come in only a 24 and 29 size and are the same price. The only reason I bought this battery was because it has a 2 year free replacement warranty. This was the only battery I could find at that cost with such a good warranty. Most deep cycle batteries have, at that price range, a 12 month warranty. Years ago I remember when a 3 year warranty was the norm, but I guess everything is leaning to "disposable" in today's world.

Just be sure it's the Maxx model. The regular EverStart batteries (about $25.00 cheaper) have only a 12 month warranty. The extra year warranty is worth $25 bucks.


http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-...ttery/20531538

You may find a different battery with the same or better warranty in the $100.00 price range, but I couldn't.
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:29 AM   #7
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Appreciate all of the help! As I dug further into the problem I found out that not only the battery was shot but also blew a 20 Amp fuse right up by the battery. I replaced the fuse and battery and all was good until we went camping. While using my generator to charge the battery the first morning the fuse blew again good thing I bought a handful of 20 Amp fuses. My first thought was the generator caused the blown fuse because I just used the truck from that point on to charge the battery and have not had any problems since. Does my troubleshooting point to the right place (the generator) or could there be something else causing the fuse to blow?
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:46 AM   #8
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It is hard to blame the generator without knowing what the 20 amp fuse protected?
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Old 08-03-2016, 08:06 AM   #9
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If you are blowing fuses, it is because you are drawing better than 20A through the circuit. Maybe even a direct short. A group 27 deep-cycle battery will most likely require a larger battery box install.
Knowing how carefully these products are assembled, I would say a prayer for troubleshooting luck and renew any obvious frame grounds(corrosion) and look for worn through insulation on wires over frame contact points.
Start at one end of the circuit(battery) or the other and easiest most accessible points first. Beyond that its VOMs, ammeters, short circuit tester, pulling fuses and experience

Hard to believe the genset itself would cause this, anything can happen I guess
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Old 08-03-2016, 12:51 PM   #10
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Let me try to add a little more details. I have only blown one fuse since replacing the original one when the defective battery was replaced.

The generator has some moisture in the fuel system because I started and it would run for 5 to 15 minutes and I would start back up - did this approximately 5 times hoping what ever moisture would works its way out. The 5th time I started the generator and then it stalled and noticed the fuse was blown. Could starting the generator multiple times cause this?
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:00 PM   #11
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Battery Replacement

Seems unlikely. What fuse is blowing? What circuit or appliance is on that fuse. As I just to be clear, it's a fuse not a circuit breaker? Is it one mounted on a wall right near the battery? (You said something about right up to the battery.)


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Old 08-12-2016, 08:17 AM   #12
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It is a 20Amp fuse right next to the battery. I believe it is the one that comes from the voltage regulator to charge the battery.
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:12 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leever2000 View Post
It is a 20Amp fuse right next to the battery. I believe it is the one that comes from the voltage regulator to charge the battery.
That one shouldn't be blowing. It's a main circuit line problem. I would recommend taking it to the dealer for a full electrical check. Others here may have some suggestions, but I'm basing this on the nature of the issue and I'm inferring that you don't have an electrical background or the equipment to hunt down a high output, high draw or short circuit issue - and I mean no offense by that! I just don't want you to waste your time or even potentially get hurt.
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Old 08-12-2016, 12:33 PM   #14
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No offense taken - On that note does anyone have access to a schematic for the 2015 Coachmen Clipper 17BH? I would assume it would be pretty close to any 30 AMP system that has shore power hookup.

Shore power in to a voltage regulator to run/charge the 12VDC system and the direct link to the 110 VAC stuff (AC, microwave etc...)
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