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Old 10-31-2018, 03:32 PM   #21
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Thanks for all the replies, I will look into upping the wire gage from the converter to the batteries. In my CC it is only about a 10' run at most, so not a lot of loss of voltage.
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:36 PM   #22
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Thanks for all the replies, I will look into upping the wire gage from the converter to the batteries. In my CC it is only about a 10' run at most, so not a lot of loss of voltage.
Before you do that, measure your voltage drop when charging very discharged batteries. If it's less than 3%, don't worry about it.
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:55 PM   #23
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If you don't mind running your generator twice as long to charge your batteries, I guess you are.

If you actually measure the current that the WFCO is supplying, you won't feel you are lucky. But then again, ignorance is bliss.
Funny how that ignorance part works both ways.......

But really, I wouldn't spend $$$ to upgrade unless the WFCO failed as it works just fine for our needs. We boondock 80% of the time and generally run our generators for about 5 hours a day for coffee pot and TV time. Just happens to charge up the batteries in that time also
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Old 10-31-2018, 04:19 PM   #24
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Funny how that ignorance part works both ways.......

But really, I wouldn't spend $$$ to upgrade unless the WFCO failed as it works just fine for our needs. We boondock 80% of the time and generally run our generators for about 5 hours a day for coffee pot and TV time. Just happens to charge up the batteries in that time also
LOL...5 hours!

Thanks for proving my point about WFCO.
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:13 PM   #25
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LOL...5 hours!

Thanks for proving my point about WFCO.
Guess you missed my point about the generators are going to be running that long anyway for reasons other than battery charging... But that's nothing new with our 'conversations'.....
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:15 PM   #26
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Guess you missed my point about the generators are going to be running that long anyway for reasons other than battery charging... But that's nothing new with our 'conversations'.....
For everyone else, including the people that have to listen to them, 5 hours is way too long.

For the people that would actually want to get a full charge faster than 5 hours, dump the WFCO.

BTW, they make inverters that can power TVs.
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:17 PM   #27
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For everyone else, including the people that have to listen to them, 5 hours is way too long.
Now that is just BS. I guess you don't boondock often. And where we camp, there is nobody to hear them but us. But you are welcome to join us just for the sheer enjoyment of picking on you in person
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:23 PM   #28
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Now that is just BS. I guess you don't boondock often. And where we camp, there is nobody to hear them but us. But you are welcome to join us just for the sheer enjoyment of picking on you in person
We boondock all the time and have solar so we never have to run a generator. 2000w inverter so no need for a generator to run anything else except AC.
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:31 PM   #29
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We boondock all the time and have solar so we never have to run a generator. 2000w inverter so no need for a generator to run anything else except AC.
Good for you with solar. We won't have that until the price is more reasonable. But your still welcome to join us, shoot, we might even get along
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:52 PM   #30
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We will be boondocking for the first time in an upcoming trip and was wondering the best way to charge our batteries with a 2000 watt generator. Should I just plug into the trailer with an adapter and run the generator and let the trailer charge the batteries or charge the batteries directly from the generator using the 12-volt Outlet or use a trickle charger that is plugged into the generator directly to the batteries thanks for the help. We do have a 200 watt solar panel that will also charge the batteries. Our use will be for a residential fridge and for the furnace overnight if needed
Solar will do a good job keeping your battery charged during the day. I have 305 watts and can fun some vent fans and a tv for over 6 hours. Use the gen for running your 120 volt equipment as you need it. Fridge and WH on propane and you should be good. I was surprised this winter with 3 inches of snow on the roof in bright sunlight and the batterys were charging, not a lot, but 3 amps is charging.
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:55 PM   #31
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Good for you with solar. We won't have that until the price is more reasonable. But your still welcome to join us, shoot, we might even get along
Given that there is a 30% tax credit, that may be going away, now is not a bad time to install solar. Kinda doubt it will drop more than the tax credit that will be going away.
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:08 PM   #32
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What kind of battery set up do you have? Might not have to recharge every day. But good idea like NMWildcat wrote, to plan on doing other things with 120 volt each day while you top off the batteries.
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:25 PM   #33
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Regardless of the brand of converter you have it’s a good mod to increase the wire size going from the converter to the batteries. I did that and now my voltage at the batteries match the output voltage of the converter much sooner than before. I have never timed it but I’m sure that my batteries charge faster because of less voltage drop. Jay
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:46 PM   #34
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Given that there is a 30% tax credit, that may be going away, now is not a bad time to install solar. Kinda doubt it will drop more than the tax credit that will be going away.

Even with the credit the repayment time is still excessive. Unless you can sell your excess power back to the power company, assuming you have any, the number is 20 years.

It really doesn't make sense if you live in a cloudy environment like I do which is why we don't see a ton of panel covered roofs.

Not to say it's not a good idea where they have more sun than rain. On my recent trip I went by acres and acres of "solar farms" but in places like Eastern Oregon, Southern New Mexico, Arizona, and Nevada.

Here in Western Washington, if you see someone you think has a "tan", it's more likely just "rust".
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Old 10-31-2018, 07:06 PM   #35
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Even with the credit the repayment time is still excessive. Unless you can sell your excess power back to the power company, assuming you have any, the number is 20 years.

It really doesn't make sense if you live in a cloudy environment like I do which is why we don't see a ton of panel covered roofs.

Not to say it's not a good idea where they have more sun than rain. On my recent trip I went by acres and acres of "solar farms" but in places like Eastern Oregon, Southern New Mexico, Arizona, and Nevada.

Here in Western Washington, if you see someone you think has a "tan", it's more likely just "rust".
I am talking about solar for the RV. Yes, you get can get the credit for the RV as well.

As far as what it's worth for your home, that is on an individual basis. Even with us in So Cal, for our usage, it's not worth it.
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Old 10-31-2018, 08:25 PM   #36
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For the record...regardless of the size of the bank or the size of the charger or the brand of the charger you ain't gonna bring back wetcells from 50% to 100% in less than 6 hours. The last 10% will take as long as getting to 90%. Some like the WFCOs can take longer. Some folks will only charge to 90% and sulphate their batteries and kill them early as capacity ramps down with each partial charge...this is a viable option if you value your time and genny wear and tear more than the replacement cost of batts. Just so you know the tradeoffs in advance
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Old 10-31-2018, 08:54 PM   #37
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Based on an observation topping my car battery up with a 25 amp charger, I agree with Camaraderie. I'm thinking best bet would be to take them to 80% on generator if necessary, then using solar (when possible) to top off instead of prolonged generator run. As long as this does not become routine, I doubt sulfating will be an issue, and my smart charger has a deshulphating stage, worse case scenario.
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Old 10-31-2018, 09:08 PM   #38
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I abuse the hell out of my two Interstate marine series 27s. Take them to 50% often, don't charge them to 100% for weeks at a time. Have never had problems making it through the night with heater running, even after three weeks of boondocking and recharging with gennies and a 'crappy' WFCO converter. They still last on avg 4.5 years. Not bad for not 'real' deep cells that cost me less than $100 a piece. Babying batteries is definitely not my hobby, but I do keep track of charge status and water level.
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Old 10-31-2018, 09:14 PM   #39
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Plug the generator into the trailer. The WFCO converter in my 2006 Roo (June 2005) works fine. It's a 3 stage. A 2000 watt genset will handle charging as well as other trailer chores.

12volts will not charge a 12v battery. Batteries accept current based on voltage differential which is why a battery charger puts out at least 13.2volts. Usually higher. A 12v battery is only 50% charged at 12v.

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Old 10-31-2018, 09:17 PM   #40
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Even with the credit the repayment time is still excessive. Unless you can sell your excess power back to the power company, assuming you have any, the number is 20 years.

It really doesn't make sense if you live in a cloudy environment like I do which is why we don't see a ton of panel covered roofs.

Not to say it's not a good idea where they have more sun than rain. On my recent trip I went by acres and acres of "solar farms" but in places like Eastern Oregon, Southern New Mexico, Arizona, and Nevada.

Here in Western Washington, if you see someone you think has a "tan", it's more likely just "rust".
Solar panels do work when it is cloudy & raining. Just not a lot.
Do solar panels work in cloudy weather?

I have seen 35 watts in the rain. One of the reason I am going to increase the wattage on my roof this winter.

I only run my generator to test it. Because my engine alternator in addition to the solar will also recharge my batteries as I drive down the road. The Samlex Inverter provides all the 120v power I need from the batteries. (and freedom from campgrounds)

ps They just install a solar farm in Willow, Alaska. Forty miles north from here.
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