Yes. Another advantage you will have with those batterys is that they put out more available power for longer. You can't run them dead, but they put out 12 volts longer then deep cycle batterys and they also have a memory like rechargeable dry batterys.
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2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
Since this was a long post with lots of good info...but also lots of bad info I'm just going to highlight the bad for correction.
As I said...lots of good stuff in this post so I don't mean to be entirely critical...but some stuff needed correction.
I am so glad Camaraderie checked in to this post; the amount of just bad info being presented as fact was just staggering and it needed to be addressed.
Thank you Cam.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
As a newbie to the RV world, I REALLY appreciate all the information I have learned from this thread! We just bought a new 2391TS which comes with a single RB100 deep cycle 12V 100 amp-hour lithium ion battery made by RE-Li-ON. Since the hubby uses a CPAP machine (7 amp draw), the first thing I did was order a second identical battery. I understand from what I have read that the two batteries can be connected in parallel - also that the charge and discharge rate of two batteries is the same as a single battery (which I surmise won't cause any problems for the charging system).
Am I on the right track?
I am not familiar with the Li-On batteries and you need to find out if each battery needs a dedicated charger/battery minder due to its construction.
For all other commonly used battery types, this is the correct way to parallel 12 volt batteries and MAY be correct for Li-On's as well. Check with the manufacturer and not an open internet forum for the correct answer.
I attached the reasoning for why the graphic is correct for most battery types.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
- I did not know about the "Climate Control" door heater in the fridge but the red wires are there behind the light cover - thanks!!! Looking at the DM2652 (no fan, dual control) circuit diagram, it looks like this only operates when on 120V.
If you have a DM2652, it has a climate control switch as indicated in the upper right frame of the freezer. If this switch is ON, the Climate control works REGARDLESS of power source.
You are confusing the 120 volt boiler heater with the climate control heater (which is a 12 volt heater).
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
If you have a DM2652, it has a climate control switch as indicated in the upper right frame of the freezer. If this switch is ON, the Climate control works REGARDLESS of power source.
You are confusing the 120 volt boiler heater with the climate control heater (which is a 12 volt heater).
New DM2652's don't have the switch anymore.
If jackconn has a newer one, he would need to either do the "cut-the-wire" mod (see attached) or pull the wire off of pin J2 (if he doesn't mind killing the inside light). Also, another guy pried the entire light fixture out of the inside of the fridge and was able to disconnect the heater there.
A 24 is the smallest battery usually found in RVs they also very a lot in quality.A good one fully charged might last all night if you dont turn the furnace.If you want to dry camp the best is two 6 v golf cart batteries if you have the room.A grp 27 is the next step up from whe re you are,if you have the room.Next would be gr 31.
Rockfordroo > Yes, I pulled J2 connector when we went solar. The DW has tired of using a flashlight to search through the always overstocked frig, so I will have to get back in there and do the wire cut with a LED bulb replacement.
Your LP detector will draw down your battery, not that you should disconnect it. Typically a group 24 has 60-70 amp hours available as tested in 20 hours. 2 6v in series average about 230 amp hours for the same test. So you can see the advantage right there. The cost is the added weight of the 6v battery.
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2015 Tracer ultra light executive edition 3200bht
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins 6.7, Dually, crew cab, long bed
Herk's photo on how to connect the batteries is correct for lithium batteries, too. Lithium batteries do not have a memory as to how much power is taken from them. They do have a built-in circuitry which cuts off at I believe 1.1 volt per cell. Anything below that causes the internal heat to build up until they explode. They also use a specifically designed charger to prevent too high of a charge rate and over-charging. When the discharge or charge circuits fail then you get the explosions people have been hearing of involving cell phones, laptops, etc. There is a lot of science involved in charging / discharging of lithium batteries.
I have been flying RC aircraft using lithium batteries for 10 years and I still don't completely understand the technology.
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Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
Conversely, you can go to 'Battle Born Batteries' in Reno, Nevada and buy a Lithium-Iron (not Ion), group 27 equivalent battery that weighs 23 pounds, can be discharged to 0 volts repeatedly without issue, conventionally charged and delivers 12 volts to almost total discharge and can be mounted in any position, anywhere because they are totally sealed.
Same multi-pack technology as a Lithium-Ion without the low voltage heat up or explosion issue.
The problem is price. around 800 clams a piece.
I'm saving my pennies so when my Trogan's poop out, I''ll have a pair.
My self correct changed memory. Had a very deep talk with a fellow using these bats. to power his self built Ranger pickup. He had enough to go 60 miles and about 70MPH. My interest was the bats for the RV. Very expensive but better then other bats. The converter/charger is rather expensive, but necessary.
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2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
My self correct changed memory. Had a very deep talk with a fellow using these bats. to power his self built Ranger pickup. He had enough to go 60 miles and about 70MPH. My interest was the bats for the RV. Very expensive but better then other bats. The converter/charger is rather expensive, but necessary.
I talked to then (in Reno) a while ago when I first heard about the Li-Iron technology and they assured me, unlike a Lithium Ion pack, the Li-Iron pack can be charged with a conventional 3 stage charger like a Progressive Dynamics. In fact, they assured me if I could not charge them with my converter, they would refund my money.
When the flooded cell Trojans expire, I'll have a pair.
Specs are on their website but if I remember correctly it's about a third again as much as a flooded cell group 27. What I like about them is the almost flat discharge curve from 100% charge to basically no charge.
You can run them flat many times (I think the cycle life from 100% to 0% was 1000 cycles), I wouldn't do that but unlike a flooded cell or AGM (optima style) battery, completely discharging them has no ill effects.
A flooded cell or AGM below 50% is slow death. (the OP found that out on this thread by now, I'm sure)....
No memory either unlike a Nickle-Metal-Hydride
They do a cost analysis on their website, comparing their Li-Iron battery (group 27 clone) to a 27 flooded cell conventional and compared cycle life, amp hour capacity and total unit life and it's pretty favorable. Problem is, again, 800 clams each is a hard nut to bust when you can buy an East Penn conventional 27 at Costo for under 50 bucks and a Trojan 6 volt (need 2) for under a hundred bucks each.
I'm very happy with my Trojans. They do a good job, but, like any conventional flooded cell, they gas off to a certain extent and must be vented, and it is hydrogen gas and it is very explosive and corrosive so placement becomes an issue. LI-Iron has no gassing off so placement is anywhere and being solid state for all intents and purposes, physical placement can be in any position, even inverted so the solutions are endless.
Wow, again - very nice to have all the input and ideas. An update on our situation...had the battery tested today at a NAPA store after all night on shore power. Tested perfectly good, 12.86V and 575 CCH (rating is 550). Sure, the test could be bogus but it makes me wonder if we weren't fully charged on our boondocking night that started this discussion. Also makes me wonder about all the suggestions that running it to 8V kills it, though I have also heard that elsewhere. I'm going to continue to monitor voltages more closely and will report back if any new news.
Will also find a way to disconnect that DM2652 heater (thanks for the clarification re circuit diagram - makes sense!).
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Jack & April Connell
2017 Rockwood Mini Lite 2104S
Tow Vehicle: 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel
Blog for our trailer trips: www.jackandaprilblog.com
Ah yer just a kid. Send WindyNation.com $350 and he will UPS you a 200 watt solar system with a " happy face" controller, 10 GA wire and all you will need is some stainless mounting screws, (I like #14 sheet metal) some Self leveling Dicor a couple in line fuses and MAYBE some extra 10 ga wire and your batteries will become carefree. FOR WHEN YOU ACTUALLY DO GET OLD.
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Tom48
In Sunny So Cal /w
Now in 2005 Holiday Rambler Ambassador DP and The Hot Air Balloon RESTLESS NO MORE Tricked out 2017 Sandstorm 250 T.H.
It's Nickel-Cadmium that has the memory. Ni-MH has limited recharge cycles a little better than NiCd. Both were used regularly in home tools and RC applications. Now Lithium is becoming the standard. My 8 cell Ni-MH battery weighs 1lb-2oz and has a charge of 9.6volts will run my 2 motor 2.5lb plane for 20 minutes, takes 50min - 1 hr to recharge. NiCd being the cheapest, Ni-MH being about twice the cost, and Lithium batteries being 2-3 times the cost of Ni-MH.
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Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
It's Nickel-Cadmium that has the memory. Ni-MH has limited recharge cycles a little better than NiCd. Both were used regularly in home tools and RC applications. Now Lithium is becoming the standard. My 8 cell Ni-MH battery weighs 1lb-2oz and has a charge of 9.6volts will run my 2 motor 2.5lb plane for 20 minutes, takes 50min - 1 hr to recharge. NiCd being the cheapest, Ni-MH being about twice the cost, and Lithium batteries being 2-3 times the cost of Ni-MH.
Glad you clarified that. I don't know one from another except my 18 volt DeWalt needs replacement batteries about every yearr because it won't hold a charge. Nickle-pickle, all good.
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