Busbar and briefcase solar kit

[roadster]

I have a 200w goPower solar panel with 30a controller hooked up to two lithium batteries in parallel. I have the vampire 12v GE fridge that drains most of the battery juice.

I am planning to add an inverter and I am out of room to connect it to battery posts except by alligator clip, which is annoying coz of stepstair location of batteries. Any suggestions of busbar brand? Do I need to buy a pair- positive and negative?

Boondocking more often and longer now. Today six days and am thinking of adding another solar panel up the roof to aid charging batteries. However, I am worried roof warranty be void putting more holes up there. I got a quote for $165 install labor and I provide the panel. GoPower panel is pricy!

The other option is to use my briefcase 160w solar panel kit with controller. I got two different readings when connecting to batteries two ways.

I turned off the coach power actuator. I then connected the briefcase solar kit to battery :

#1. connected the positive alligator clip to positive post and negative to negative of parallel batteries before shunt. I got less amperage reading than just with roof solar alone! It looks like it (briefcase kit) is draining the amperage. Less than 6amps it read. Stand alone roof kit read 9.

#2. connected the negative alligator of briefcase kit after shunt and reading almost 15 amps!

So my assumption is #2 is the correct way to tap briefcase solar kit to my existing roof solar system.

Is my assumption correct?

[Aussieguy]

I would look at your roof and work out how many panels you can get up there

then design your system on the panels you can fit
Look at Facebook or other local people to get panels

Ask a local solar installer if they got or can get panels for you that will fit

Try NOT to do things piecemeal ... do it right ..... do it once

Roof panels don't walk off in the night
they are always working while you drive or stopped for lunch

you can add a suitcase if you need it for shady campsites


If your solar area is IFFY... always cloudy or lots of shade
switch to Lithium batteries will charge FASTER than the older lead acid

I got 2 x 370w panels on roof
50 amp MPPT controller
2 x 100 ah battery Lifepo4
I never use anything else to charge my battery! No shorepower, no Alternator , No Suitcase

PS... If you go Lithium you'll need to look at your alternator charging
get good solar and you can disconnect HOUSE battery from alternator charging
otherwise you'll risk damaging alternator

You could modify alternator charging by using a LI-BIM or a DC-DC
but if you don't drive every day these would not help you get through several days boondocking.

[TacomaJoe]

You are correct with #2, any load or charging should be after the shunt. It still works connected directly to the battery post but won't be measured by the shunt and that will throw off the capacity numbers.

Only thing on the battery negative post should be the shunt connection.

[tomkatb]

Inverters are battery hogs.

On standby they consume 1-2 ah of battery per hour. Plus are typically 80% efficient.

You would need to install an on off switch in a convenient location so you can turn it off.

We only have a 400 watt plug in one and several ports for it to use when necessary. That is seldom!

We went the other route. Big lithium batteries. Gas fridge. Coffee maker using hot water.

[PhilFromMaine]

Originally Posted by roadster

I have a 200w goPower solar panel with 30a controller hooked up to two lithium batteries in parallel. I have the vampire 12v GE fridge that drains most of the battery juice.

I am planning to add an inverter and I am out of room to connect it to battery posts except by alligator clip, which is annoying coz of stepstair location of batteries. Any suggestions of busbar brand? Do I need to buy a pair- positive and negative?

Boondocking more often and longer now. Today six days and am thinking of adding another solar panel up the roof to aid charging batteries. However, I am worried roof warranty be void putting more holes up there. I got a quote for $165 install labor and I provide the panel. GoPower panel is pricy!

The other option is to use my briefcase 160w solar panel kit with controller. I got two different readings when connecting to batteries two ways.

I turned off the coach power actuator. I then connected the briefcase solar kit to battery :

#1. connected the positive alligator clip to positive post and negative to negative of parallel batteries before shunt. I got less amperage reading than just with roof solar alone! It looks like it (briefcase kit) is draining the amperage. Less than 6amps it read. Stand alone roof kit read 9.

#2. connected the negative alligator of briefcase kit after shunt and reading almost 15 amps!

So my assumption is #2 is the correct way to tap briefcase solar kit to my existing roof solar system.

Is my assumption correct?

1. I got something like this automotive buss. It is overkill, but does the job nicely. https://www.amazon.com/maierke-Distr...lbWF0aWM&psc=1


2. You have to have the suitcase after the shunt to have that power show up on your shunt monitor. If you hook up directly to the battery it won't read it, but you will still be getting the full charge to the battery from the suitcase. It won't affect your total input in any way.


I use busbars and eveything gets connected to them. The shunt is on the negative wire from BB to the battery.

[PhilFromMaine]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

Inverters are battery hogs.

On standby they consume 1-2 ah of battery per hour. Plus are typically 80% efficient.

You would need to install an on off switch in a convenient location so you can turn it off.

We only have a 400 watt plug in one and several ports for it to use when necessary. That is seldom!

We went the other route. Big lithium batteries. Gas fridge. Coffee maker using hot water.

As Tom says, get more battery capacity. Once you do that one amp or so won't seem like so much.


Speaking off the cuff because there is too much semi-trivial information to remember, I believe that my inverter claims efficiency numbers in the 90s percent. My usage recently reinforced that data. Last dry camping trip I exclusively used my inverter power for all electrical needs and easily camped for 6 days. and went home with a full 200AH battery.

[tomkatb]

Amazon has all kinds of small buss bars that attach to a battery terminal and provide 2-4 additional connections. More typically they mount on nearby walls.

[roadster]

Originally Posted by Aussieguy

I would look at your roof and work out how many panels you can get up there

then design your system on the panels you can fit
Look at Facebook or other local people to get panels

Ask a local solar installer if they got or can get panels for you that will fit

Try NOT to do things piecemeal ... do it right ..... do it once

Roof panels don't walk off in the night
they are always working while you drive or stopped for lunch

you can add a suitcase if you need it for shady campsites


If your solar area is IFFY... always cloudy or lots of shade
switch to Lithium batteries will charge FASTER than the older lead acid

I got 2 x 370w panels on roof
50 amp MPPT controller
2 x 100 ah battery Lifepo4
I never use anything else to charge my battery! No shorepower, no Alternator , No Suitcase

PS... If you go Lithium you'll need to look at your alternator charging
get good solar and you can disconnect HOUSE battery from alternator charging
otherwise you'll risk damaging alternator

You could modify alternator charging by using a LI-BIM or a DC-DC
but if you don't drive every day these would not help you get through several days boondocking.

My kind of dream solar set up! Yes, if I go that route, it would be all out $$. I can put 2 more panels up there. I am just a bit hesitant to mess with the roof right now because I do not want to void roof warranty. I already have roof issue I reported to FR and was told to take it to a shop.

[roadster]

Originally Posted by TacomaJoe

You are correct with #2, any load or charging should be after the shunt. It still works connected directly to the battery post but won't be measured by the shunt and that will throw off the capacity numbers.

Only thing on the battery negative post should be the shunt connection.

Roger that! Ty

[Aussieguy]

get roof........ issue sorted out then add the panels later

use shorepower / mooch dock off a garage or use a small generator until it is fixed

Holes in a roof should NOT void warranty ... if a hole you put in is the cause of a leak , damage from leak will be on YOU

If the roof material fails... ages out or becomes brittle etc manufacturer's defect and should be covered by the roofing manufacturer

They won't repair roof under warranty .... if you hit something or a branch falls on it etc etc

[Aussieguy]

PS... my panels cost 150 each (no shipping)
50 amp MPPT controller $85.00 Amazon


Z brackets , decent screws and sealant another 100.00

my solar investment just under $500.00.


thinking of selling my trusty (oil leaky) Honda i2000 except each time I think about it another storm is predicted... It sits so forlorn in the garage no longer loved and regularly used...

Poor..... Mr H

[tomkatb]

Once was a roof consultant.

Leaking roofs are rare. Almost never. In commercial construction the number one issue in new buildings is the roof and AC systems second, but usually discovered too late.. In roofs it is always the roof installers fault. In A/C it is the owners fault for asking for the cheapest stuff.

However, all transitions(horizontal to vertical) can be constructed to leak.

If you install a z bracket to leak then the roof is yours.

Your roof has a warranty that will never be used. Make all the holes in it you want.

[roadster]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

Inverters are battery hogs.

On standby they consume 1-2 ah of battery per hour. Plus are typically 80% efficient.

You would need to install an on off switch in a convenient location so you can turn it off.

We only have a 400 watt plug in one and several ports for it to use when necessary. That is seldom!

We went the other route. Big lithium batteries. Gas fridge. Coffee maker using hot water.

Good to know that inverter will still eat up power even when off.

I used to have a 750w, but upgraded to 1500/3000w to power coffee brewer or rice cooker. I go to beaches wherein I could not run generator until 10am.

I did upgrade to Li batteries, 2 100ah.

[roadster]

Originally Posted by Aussieguy

PS... my panels cost 150 each (no shipping)
50 amp MPPT controller $85.00 Amazon


Z brackets , decent screws and sealant another 100.00

my solar investment just under $500.00.


thinking of selling my trusty (oil leaky) Honda i2000 except each time I think about it another storm is predicted... It sits so forlorn in the garage no longer loved and regularly used...

Poor..... Mr H

Dang! You must have bought those a while back. The cheapest I like is $200 for a 200w panel.

Keep Mr H....I heard it's reliable and I doubt it if you can still buy one for even double of what you paid for it years ago.

[roadster]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

Once was a roof consultant.

Leaking roofs are rare. Almost never. In commercial construction the number one issue in new buildings is the roof and AC systems second, but usually discovered too late.. In roofs it is always the roof installers fault. In A/C it is the owners fault for asking for the cheapest stuff.

However, all transitions(horizontal to vertical) can be constructed to leak.

If you install a z bracket to leak then the roof is yours.

Your roof has a warranty that will never be used. Make all the holes in it you want.

The issue was screws that hold the roof brackets(on seams) were pulling up. The bracket bubbled up. I have an appointment in two weeks.....

[Aussieguy]

Originally Posted by roadster

Dang! You must have bought those a while back. The cheapest I like is $200 for a 200w panel.

Keep Mr H....I heard it's reliable and I doubt it if you can still buy one for even double of what you paid for it years ago.

Panels were from Facebook Market place
sorry missed adding the FB part


look around at local solar suppliers/installers they may have leftovers
Mine are 370w residential (bigger) Fits like a glove on the rear of my roof

[roadster]

Originally Posted by Aussieguy

Panels were from Facebook Market place
sorry missed adding the FB part


look around at local solar suppliers/installers they may have leftovers
Mine are 370w residential (bigger) Fits like a glove on the rear of my roof

Very good suggestion!
Local offerup has 340w with warranty for just $135!! The only thing is it's too big for the available space on my rooftop. Perhaps if I come across one or two 200w panels and my roof issue fixed, I'd do it! Thanks for your suggestion. It would save me $$$!

For the time being I'll be using my portable-keep-dreaming 160w solar kit to assist my rooftop 200w. I am having issues with it, but vendor honored their warranty even after the one year period. Kinda good will gesture. I'll be happy if I could squeeze at least 5amps out of it.

I ordered busbars to make my wiring looking neat plus to have another post for my inverter alligator clips.

[jlankford]

Originally Posted by roadster

Good to know that inverter will still eat up power even when off.

I used to have a 750w, but upgraded to 1500/3000w to power coffee brewer or rice cooker. I go to beaches wherein I could not run generator until 10am.

I did upgrade to Li batteries, 2 100ah.

An inverter won't consume power when it's off. It will consume 1 to 2 amps when it's On but not in use, i.e. sitting idle with no output load. Just keep it switched off unless you're actually using it.

FYI, Go Power panels are expensive, but you will find that Renogy panels of the same size have exactly the same electrical specifications at less than half the price.

[roadster]

Originally Posted by jlankford

An inverter won't consume power when it's off. It will consume 1 to 2 amps when it's On but not in use, i.e. sitting idle with no output load. Just keep it switched off unless you're actually using it.

FYI, Go Power panels are expensive, but you will find that Renogy panels of the same size have exactly the same electrical specifications at less than half the price.

Yeah, goPower is very expensive!
Renogy is $185. As soon as there are no complications on my roof inspection, I think I'll pull the trigger on the Renogy and just do it myself.
I have my roof appt this week.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by roadster

... As soon as there are no complications on my roof inspection, I think I'll pull the trigger on the Renogy and just do it myself. ...

Use panel brackets of a design that you can easily detach and reattach the panels without disturbing the seal you made to the roof. I didn't. Now I can't remove the panels for maintenance without disturbing the self-leveling sealant because I gooped it over the mounting screws. It will be more work to do that than it should have been, had I had the foresight to consider that issue.