Originally Posted by GalsofEscape
My converter is working. I am thinking (hoping) more of the inline 30 amp battery fuse holder as I noticed this weekend that now the battery is not supplying power to the fridge when I disconnect from shorepower. I had switched the fridge from ac to dc just before unhooking the shore power when we were getting ready to leave our campsite and the fridge worked on dc through the converter, though once disconnected from the shore power, the fridge went dark. And it is a fully charged battery (had it on a battery tender while we camped). The fridge did not come back when I plugged into the tow vehicle either but when I wiggled that fuse, the fridge came on but did not stay on. The fuse is good (new), so I am thinking the holder is bad. And I am hoping it is something that simple.
You cannot run your refridgerator in DC mode without something continually recharging the battery. In DC mode, the fridge will run the battery down to nothing in a matter of hours - I have seen it happen to friends too many times. Typical draw for a PUP or A-frame fridge on DC is about 6 amps or more.
To keep my battery as good as I can make it when dry camping, I turn the refridgerator off before
I unhook the tow vehicle power. When shore power is available, I run the fridge on AC. Without shore power, the fridge runs on propane. The DC is only
used when towing the camper.
On most small camper fridges (larger fridges don't usually have DC mode), the DC mode is the weakest - provides the least cooling - of the 3 modes. Propane usually does best, with AC second best.
just my experiences
A122 towed by Hyundai Entourage