On the chance that you decide the mount the charge controller where it's designed to go, here's a tip on doing in very neatly.
You need one of these saws...any brand will do:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FQ8OH...roduct_details
Corded ones are cheaper.
This saw enables you to make extremely precise cuts in the wall paneling. No splintering, and no damage to whatever is behind that panel. I flush mounted my charge controller using a saw like this. No giant, ugly wall wart sticking out like a sore thumb.
Also note that the wire pair from the roof and the wire pair to the battery/chassis ground will need to be accessed in order to join them together when you relocate your charge controller. How will you perform that trick? Perhaps you can get in there and connect them (with crimp connectors) some other way, but in my case, the only way to get to the wires was to cut a hole in the panel at the label (or remove the panel entirely, which risked all kinds of collateral damage). Perhaps you have another way.
As for an arrangement where you pick off the newly joined "hot" wire from the roof to the battery and use it as input to your charge controller, assuming the negative wire from the roof goes to chassis ground, YES, you can connect the negative INPUT and OUTPUT of the charge controller to chassis ground and just connect the positive OUTPUT to the battery. (Think of the wiring under your car's hood. All negatives are generally attached under a bolt or screw that ties them to chassis ground.)
But, I believe you'll be better off installing the charge controller where it's meant to be installed. If your bluetooth connection fails or your phone is dead, you'll have the actual charge controller display at eye level inside. Also, every chassis ground on this critical, relatively high current connection is subject to high resistance due to corrosion and/or loose connections. The one you currently (no pun intended) have likely routes through the converter, and it's securely gounded to the ground side of the converter and from there securely grounded to the chassis on a solid lug. The chassis ground you install is likely to be a screw through a crimp-on eyelet into a drilled hole on the frame using a self tapper or similar. Not nearly as good, and prone to failure. But that's my hunch.
Also note that with just 200 watts, you're not going to tax any of the "pre" wiring installed. That wire should be #10, and on a good day, your array will push about 15 amps at the battery. #10 can handle 30 amps. In your case, there is NO advantage to moving the controller closer to the battery. Add TWO more panels, and you'll still be in spec for the wire. Add THREE more panels...and approach 40 amps...and you might consider upgrading the wire to #8 AWG rather than relocating the charge controller...for the simple reason that the #10 wire is inadequate all the way from the roof to the battery.
I have 400 watts on my roof, and as you can see, I'm connected using the "solar ready" wiring (#10 AWG), my panels are in parallel (to allow for individual panels to be in shade and not compromise the output of the ones in the sun), and my solar performance is extraordinary. My battery bank (2x6-volt GC2s) is typically topped off by about 1 PM or so.
Good luck.
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